Well, I am almost done with reassembling the car. Now I ran into a problem

stock intake tube that lays on top of the Fan shroud then bolt to the front does not fit. the Koyo Rad cap is right there.

I did search a year something ago before I bought the Koyo, didn't find any stock intake problem post so I bought one ...

I thought Koyo Rad works with stock intake ...

R1144N

ok. Options?

maybe I should go back to stock radiator ... *sigh*

I wonder if the R1144 would fit like stock (I mean EVERYTHING) ... Anybody ?

Mine is S5 NA.

*edited* now I'm thinking, did they ship me the wrong rad? cuz the filler neck does not extend out like some of the pics that I see. what I'm thinking is they shipped me a S4 Rad instead of S5 ...

 

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/diy-cold-air-box-830116/

do this^

 

want to keep mine as stock as possible.

 

Maybe you can shorten that rubber connecting hose a bit, but Then the holes wont line up.

Meanwhile i wish i had that radiator

 

looks like koyo got wise and got rid of the gooseneck on the S5 radiators. unfortunately now you get to be creative.

 

thought about it, and yep, holes won't line up. so I gave up.

I'm thinking to get rid of it and get another rad.

if I do get another one, I will sell this one, it's 99% brand new. Good price for local pick up

Funny thing is, I still see gooseneck Koyo Rad for sale online. and I got this rad last summer.

I don't know, will see what happens.

 

I think it would be sorta silly of you to sell that awesome radiator over this. I would say either modify/shorten the plastic intake where the holes dont align...or do what that guy said, get a cone filter (better anyway) and make a box. RX7s respond better to it anyway. Better airflow is always a plus. and although the stock box does its purpose, the air has to make more of a detour to get to your filter (less efficient) Keep the stock box, no need to discard it, I can appreciate keeping your car stock.. But if you are going for top tier performance, a cone filter/box would work awesome with that radiator.

 

Well, Top performance is never my concern, if I want top performance I would've got myself a Turbo II in the first place.

I know this rad is awesome, but if it does not fit my needs ... there is no point keeping it, right?

Will see if the "be creative" path works ... if not ... this rad gotta go and I might end up getting a brand new Stock Rad and call it a day.

 

well, you could try cutting up the snorkel and glassing it.

 

Yeah, I think you could find a way to get it to work. It looks like you could almost just shave the one side down and fill the hole with something. Be creative, draw some pictures haha.

 

Also just to point something out....in an S5 FC NA (which I also have) the stock radiators have lots of plastic pieces and are one of those pieces mazda just didn't think through putting into production. You would be MUCH better off changing that decent intake than that awesome radiator. really. I'll trade you for my perfectly good stock radiator for that one lol.

 

The long flimsy stock S5 filler neck is a disaster waiting to happen, you are much better off without it despite the "non-stock" appearance.
I think you could do this without getting too radical.

I'd try Rob's suggestion and see if it clears with a shortened/deleted rubber joint.
If so, make a new piece of strap metal to extend over to the stock mount points.
Your bracket is already rusty and it's not a very special looking piece anyway.

 

Try an S5 Snorkle as the bit different design from the S4 version you have might help. It's actually an upgrade to the S4 since it's a bit larger.

 

most OEM has been using these plastic and aluminum core radiator for decades, its cheaper that gives the car enough cooling for regular use.


no thx, lol if I'm gonna get another stock i can get my own and sell this one back out lol.



i was thinking to por 15 over the rust, then paint.

now, i might have to cut it. i don't know yet.

mine is s4? ...

 

i finally found koyo`s web site and found that

R1144 has the goose neck, which is still 53mm thickness, just not N flow
R1144n, which has 53 mm and n flow and lower fin count for better flow, does not have goose neck.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm thinking maybe i should sell n flow and get that mmmmmm

 

i would trade you but im not quite sure when I am taking this radiator out

I had planned on removing the neck and having a -an fitting welded onto my radiator, planned on it in the next few weeks.

 

what Rad u got? mine is pretty much brand new had run for less than 30 mins in total on jackstand to check for leaks ... lol

 

im not sure what model Koyo it is, I have it a few years, maybe 1200 miles on it

 

I'm pretty sure Rob has even polished the coolant in his car.

 

that is the last of the polished IC pipes, and going with a black braided upper radiator hose, so I dont know what do with the radiator anymore, lol

i have something different in mind for the pipes, should be finished in the next week or two

 

nice.well i dunno yet. I'm gonna see if anybody wanna buy mine first for a good price? if not then i consider a trade?

or maybe i just gonna trim the stock tube and call it a day ...?

 

let me know how much you want for it, maybe ill sell mine instead of cutting and welding it

 

was thinking 275 local pick up, cuz its almost new and i don't really have to sell it. pm me and lemme know what u think.

 

The intake snorkel is plastic and when heated it is malleable. You might lay it on your rad and see how much deformation it would take to make it fit. The sound expansion chamber might be a bugger.

If it looks doable you could use a cheap heat gun to heat a section and then push it into place with a bit of 2x4. ABS gets soft enough for thermalforming at 150 -180 °C so a IR thermometer is always helpful.

The snorkel is the same on the na and tii so you have plenty of intake flow capacity to spare. And you could retain most of the OEM look and have the better cooling.

Something to consider.

 

Yes, your Snorkle is an S4. The noise box is on the bottom of an S4, while it's on the top (closer to the engine) on an S5.