Well thanx to hailers i got all the rats nest and all the emissions are gone from mt 88 TII. Well before i took the nest out the car was idleing like it was running on one rotor(engine shaking and missing real bad). Well I thought the problem was massive vac leaks so I took the nest out but its still doing the same thing!!!!!!!!!!! Also at idle if u pull the l2 plug wire off the coil the idle dosent change at all is this normal? If you pull the l1 wire off it almost dies... so whats the deal???? Things to note: timing is set to factory specs, plugs are real black, smells rich, turbo glows after a hard drive...

Also it Bangs out really bad at like 7k rpms.... what makes it bang out like that???

sry for all the questions I just wanna get this thing running right!!!!!!!!!!!

 

If you're having trouble at idle it's not wise to be running the car to 7k. When you pull the plug wire off does it still spark? Did you replace the plugs after you discovered they were dirty?

Car is going to be more rich without emissions equipment, or at least one would assume so, due to the fact that emissions are there to help maintain a leaner mixture.

The turbo should glow after a decently hard run. My FD always does, that's just what happens when you get alot of heat and put it into something that makes more heat.

 

If you are 100% sure you do not have a vacume leak(Recheck). For Idle problem 1) New plugs, check timing. 2)Proper voltage to the coils. 3) Check grounds on engine block and ECU. 4) Check CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) plug in and wires to the ECU.

For Bangs at 7K (What is a bang out?) miss fire, back fire,.

 

Trailing plugs have little effect on idle. Little to none.

It sounds like you NEED to remove the two bottom plugs then disconnect the CAS electrical plug.

Have someone go to START while you put one finge over one sparkplug hole then the other. IF you have a broken apex seal, you can tell it easily by the difference b/t the pulses or one rotor then the other.

This cost you NOTHING and no tools other than a sparkplug scoket and thirty minutes time. After thirty minutes you'll know where you stand as far a good/bad apex seal goes.

 

yeah when i pull the wire it still sparks, plugs are pretty new, car runs very very very smooth at anything under load, just not at idle....and when i say banging out i mean like backfireing i guess.. hailers you think I could have a broken apex seal? would the symptoms of that be intermediate>? reason i say that is because one day the car will idle smooth, then later on that day or the next day or three days from that it will idle like it is now very crappy!!!!

 

You should also take out the EGI relay too avoid flooding the shizzz out of your motor. If you're going to do the "finger in the spark plug hole" test.

If it idles smooth sometimes but not others I wouldn't be looking to mechanical failures just yet. Have you checked your IAC (Idle Air Control) or TPS (throttle position sensor). How's the MAF (mass air flow) sensor, when my MAF went bad the car wouldn't even start.

The backfiring's a different story though sounds like. What one problem could be causing may not be causing the other. Afterburn as they call it is when excess fuel is remaining in the mixture as it exits the engine and is then lit off in the heat of the exhaust gas. So if you're talking about a boom or flame from the exhaust this could be due to your rich mixture that you spoke of. Typically only happens during shifts or down revs tho, not just accelerating. Because you are going from an extreme rich condition (WOT) to a lean condition (closed throttle) It creates a combustible mixture in your exhaust stream. Air+Fuel+Heat= boom boom.

 

Im pretty sure its running rich it smells horrible and get like 10 mpg..., where is the IAC at? The tps is set perfect so thats not the cause, how do you check the MAF? I got to thinking about that today that thing took some damage when i had it off the car because my nephew kept picking it up and droping it...lol... hes only 2. Anything else I should check???
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Thanx

 

****You should also take out the EGI relay too avoid flooding the shizzz out of your motor. If you're going to do the "finger in the spark plug hole" test. ******

Neither fuel injecton nor spark can happen with the CAS plug disconnected.

An engine will START witout the afm being connected. The Start cycle is independent of the afm. Only it won't run more than a second or two like that.

****hailers you think I could have a broken apex seal?******

I missed the part about it running good at anything other than idle. Could be a vacuum leak OR a vacuum hose going to the wrong place. Say the fuel injector air bleed nipple located b/t the two oil injectors on the lower manifold was connected to a vacuum source. THAT would cause a irregular idle because it's supposed to attach to a source of clean air, not a vacuum source.

While writing that I thought of something that causes bad idle. Air leak. Air leat at the lower grommets of the fuel injectors. Those grommets should be soft and malable. Rock hard ones leak and cause bad idle.

 

Well I hooked all the vac lines up as per the diagram you provided me so, but had the car runs flawless at anything other than idle. Pulls hard under boost and just cruising down the road, when the car will idle on it own at like 700 rpms, the vac on boost gauge is at like 6, thats when it runs shitty, when its idleing good at 700 rpms the vac on my gauge is at like 14, so i dont kno how I could have an intermediate vaccum leak????

 

It's been quite some time since I've done anything with an FC thanks for the info. My car would not start when the MAF wasn't connected but It sure is possible yes.

Thanks for the CORRECTION

 

Correction on some of the info above i posted, the car seems to have a steady missfire, while cruising at like 40 or 50 mph, I think im going to get another leading coil and new plugs and wires, and check the compression too and see what i get,,, thansx