jono20

so I wake up this morning, car is outside and ice cold. cold enough to have frost on the roof, I start it up and let it warm for a minute, then set off to work. right before I get to work I look down, and see my temp gauge steadily rising, it was at 3/4 or maybe even a bit more before I shut down the engine and coasted the rest of the way. I popped the hood when I got to work, and the engine was still cold.

what the heck is going on!?!?!? im losing coolant a lot too if I run it for too long. I know it sounds like a coolant seat problem, but I dont think it is. I have no white smoke, and when I crank the engine no bubbles come up through the water.

could this simply be a cooling problem? Im pretty sure my fan clutch is not working, but I have an e-fan on the way. could that be the only problem?

Im getting codes 9 and 17, which I believe is the water thermosensor, and some other one I dont really understand (mentioned the o2 sensor, but I JUST replaced it...)

another minor problem im having concerns my wipers, and the logicon unit. at random (usually when I really need them) they both simultaneously stop woorking, no power to the wipers or to the logicon. any ideas on this?

thanks a lot for all of you help guys, I really appreciate it!

jono20

seems that the wipers and logicon stop working when ita really cold... where could this problem be?

bradenscreed

hey man if youre losing water then its going somewhere, maybe a coolant seal but u said u dont think so...if not then the collant lines arent too complicated, check to make sure the heater core doesnt have a crack.... coolant is eaither flowing somewhere else, or evaporating out....see about flushing the system and check for blockage i guess....at least thats what id be thinking if it was me.

AbortRetryFail

Make sure your thermostat is working.

Icemark

Bad 2nd ignition connection at the ignition switch.

Icemark

What are you using for a thermostat??? Sounds like it is jamming/binding.

jono20

ive got a t-stat that I got from lordco in there right now. maybe they gave me the wrong one?

concerning the second ignition switch, what do I do to fix it?

Icemark

Not an OEM Mazda???

jono20

I guess not, no

RETed

Coolant seal failure does not automatically mean white smoke out the exhaust or bubbling of the coolant when you remove the radiator cap...

If you're losing coolant, FIND THE LEAK AND FIX IT!
The cooling system *needs* to be totally sealed to work properly.
If there is a minute leak, pressure will bleed off when everything heats up.
No pressure means lower boiling point of the coolant.
Lower boiling point means localized boiling is very possible, which can lead to symptoms you descibed...


-Ted

jono20

the only place ive seen coolant leaking from is the overflow hose

and concerning the "Bad 2nd ignition connection at the ignition switch." should I jsut resolder the points at the ignition?

jono20

a buddy of mine said to try re-soldering the cpu and logicon unit aswell. would that probably help?

Icemark

No... the CPU controls the warnings (like door buzzers, light buzzer, alt failure, etc) the turn signals, horn, brake light warning light.

The logicon only controls the heater/climate control system.

Your buddy has no clue if he suggested those things.

Icemark

No, replace the switch.

The contacts are probably all worn out from the switch having too much weight from a heavy key chain or the like.

jono20

is it a bad idea to resolder the cpu anyways?

Icemark

only if you don't know what you are doing.

If you don't know what you are doing you can make it much worse, or burn the traces off the board (forcing replacement of the board).

jono20

ok thanks a lot ice. as an update, I had my fan shroud off today and found a small rad fluid leak at the bottom of my rad, where the hose connects. I think this is the problem ive been looking for! unfortunately, now ive got another. read
HERE to find out more!!