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Ur right I'm not suited to working on any car lol !!!breach the intake ???????
removing the intercooler opens the intake, the airflow meter is in the airbox, so removing anything on the intake pretty much at all causes the whole system to not work properly. you can't run the engine even partly disassembled like you can on many newer cars with a map sensor.
oh ok well I DID REMOVE intercooler and try start it a few times , DOES it reset itself, ??? I CANT BELIEVE it starts so well idles so well runs ok until u put the foot down on throttle and it seems to BOG out , like its retarding, like not enough air or something , before I brought new plugs , I took old ones out and cleaned them put them back in and for the first run through 1-2-3-4 it boosted well then went back to bogging out, so I brough new plugs , & still did the same , I MIGHT BUY NEW LEADS , but leads look great , THE ONLY thing I've done is when I stored it spray a cilicone protector all over moter which I've cleaned off or adjusted top idle screw ARRRRRRR I'll be pissed off if it's just a hose I knocked offoff or a plug , but I can't see anything
When its idling, spray some carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or starter fluid (without starting a fire) around the engine bay. If the idle changes, you know you have a vacuum leak.
Man, really guys? Don't start messing with your TPS settings. I would say you are not skilled enough to attack this on your own. Stop buying stuff and get someone who knows what they're doing to help you out or bring it to a shop.
Based on your description i have a couple questions
if u floor it in like 3rd at low rpm(like 2000rpm) does it pull fine up until exactly between 3500-3800? Or does it bog out at a specific rpm every time?
or is it more of anytime u floor regardless of rpm it it starts to bog down.?
if it occurs at 3500-3800 everytime id suspect a faulty secondary injector or loose wire connection for them.
if it's at all rpms bogging down if more than say 1/4th throttle. I'd suspect a failing oil metering pump and the car goes into limp mods, which may not always throw a code.
also does your car have any mods? Stock ecu? Exhaust upgrades?
Last edited by KompressorLOgic; 11-14-17 at 05:44 AM.
To the forum members who already gave sound advice, the OP started a similar conversation in a different thread here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-gene...e-obd-1121133/ I am bringing the conversation back here because that thread reverted to the OP's original circumstances.
Bellboy7, you are very new to the forum and your knowledge of cars (in general) is finite. Your ignorance and poor etiquette shows. Several members gave you sound advice between this thread and the other thread (link above and when I jumped into that conversation). I get the impression that you didn't want to follow the advice given and you are just looking for a quick fix. Instead, you began to rant like Chicken Little proclaiming the sky is falling.
The good news is that your "newbie" mistakes can be corrected and you could gain the necessary experience and respect from other forum members. We all were once in your shoes. Therefore, I'm offering these pearls of wisdom for any future interactions:
1. Download/obtain the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for your car. Become familiar with it! If you bought the car with a certain amount of mods then get that information and understand how it interacts with the car and where these items are located.
2. Use the "Search" / "Advanced Search" function on the forum. This is more powerful and convenient on a PC web browser than a mobile app such as Garage Talk. Chances are very high that someone before you experienced the same/similar problem and solved it.
4. When starting a new thread, avoid titles such as, "NEED HELP NOW". Opt for a brief title such as, "Throttle stutters at 2k+" or "How to access CEL Codes", etc...
5. When describing the problem, list relevant mods to the car. The rotary engine is finicky so particulars that help include type of ECU (stock ECU, Haltech, etc...), turbo system (stock or otherwise), original motor or rebuilt motor xxx mi/km ago, just to list a few.
6. Avoid stating the problem without additional info, like relevant mods from Item 5. You will attract more relevant responses when you discuss test procedures, following advice from a different thread, etc... This tells other members that you were following a procedure and require additional help. It also gives them a reference point on the last procedure you used.
7. When advice is given, provide feedback. Tell the forum what you found. Post pictures/video of your results. If the problem is solved then explicitly say it!
8. Be descriptive when you have a problem. Avoid a constant barrage of speculations or "what-if's". Instead, discuss a logical flow of things you measured, tested, or observed. This helps others "see" what you see. Cite specific references like the FSM or link to another thread.
9. Use proper spelling, grammar, and punctuation! Whether each of us speak using the Queen's English, American, or variations in between, proof read a post is a must. We often write as we speak and vise versa. However, proper spelling, grammar, and punctuation reduces any confusion and directly discusses the problem at hand. For example: Let's eat Grandma. Let's eat, Grandma. The first sentence suggests that we are cannibals and Grandma is now on the menu. The latter sentence tells Grandma that the time to eat is now. The sentence structure is similar but the meaning between the two couldn't be more different.
9.a. Repetitively mispeling words using txt speak adn constantly writing trains fo though without without using punctuation shows ones ignorants and ads confusion to teh reader this is why proof reading a post is necessary
10. YouTube is another source to learn where and how to do things. For example, this video shows a viewer how to check ECU (CEL) codes on an S5.
Owning a modified RX-7 requires the owner to have a better understanding of cars. Otherwise, constantly going to a specialty shop can become rather time consuming and expensive! I hope these pearls of wisdom serve you well and I wish you the best of luck on your FC repairs.
Cheers,
George
P.S. Item 9.a actually states: "Repetitively misspelling words, using text speak, and constantly writing trains of thought without using punctuation shows one's ignorance and adds confusion to the reader. This is why proof reading a post is necessary." Did you understand my original sentence or does this one clearly state my message?
Yes George funny u say that cos when I was putting leads in correct position I noticed L1 lead loosely fitting on spark plug so I tried squeezing it up a little so it fit SNUG & tight and it was a bit crappy inside, I’m talking inside the rubber connector that connects to spark plug , I took it for a drive after playing with lead plug it went sweet for a bit then back to bogging out ; so I’m getting 2 new leads FINGERS CROSSED ������
Are you replacing all of the spark plug wires? If one plug wire felt crappy then replace all 4, especially if you do not know the age of these wires.
Did you check that the spark plugs are installed in the right spot?
Here are a few tips when installing the spark plug wires:
1. Do not use excessive force on the spark plug boot.
2. You may feel a small "pop" or "snap" when the spark plug boot connects to the spark plug.
3. Use dielectric grease around the spark plug boot and ceramic (white) portion of the spark plug.
See this video for proper use of dielectric grease:
4. Verify the proper spark plug is installed in the proper location on the housing.
4.a. The Leading spark plug, NGK Part #: BUR7EQ, will have an "L" stamped on it.
4.b. The Leading spark plug is installed on the lower side of each rotor housing. You should see an "L" on the housing, to the right of the hole.
4.c. The Trailing spark plug, NGK Part #: BUR9EQ, will have 2 blue lines at one end and have a "T" stamped on it.
4.d. The Trailing spark plug is installed on the upper side of each rotor housing. You should see a "T" on the housing, to the right of the hole.
4.e. Photo of the Leading (on the left) and Trailing (on the right) Spark Plugs:
5. Thread spark plugs into each socket by hand first. This will avoid cross-threaded spark plugs or damage to the rotor housings.
6. Use a thin-wall spark plug socket to ensure the spark plug is fully installed into the each rotor housing.
7. Do NOT over tighten the spark plugs. Tighten each spark plug until it stops. No additional force is needed.
8. Do NOT cross-connect spark plug wires!
8.a. Connect L1 wire to L1 coil then to L1 Spark Plug (lower front of housing).
8.b. Connect L2 wire to L2 coil then to L2 Spark Plug (lower rear of housing).
8.c. Connect T1 wire to T1 coil then to T1 Spark Plug (upper front of housing).
8.d. Connect T2 wire to T2 coil then to T2 Spark Plug (upper rear of housing).
Let us know how the wire and spark plug replacement goes!
I want you to consider testing the OMP (Oil Metering Pump) after you replace the spark plug wires and make sure the correct spark plugs are installed in the correct rotor housing. Mazda referred to the OMP as the MOP (Metering Oil Pump); like different ways to pronounce "tomato" (UK vs USA).
The test procedure for the OMP is found in the FSM on Pg D-16. If the car is not throwing a CEL (Check Engine Light) then you can still test the OMP. The flowchart to test the OMP begins on Pg D-17.
Additionally, there are 2 threads that discuss OMP failure and the ECU. Please note that damage to your ECU is possible if the OMP failed. Before you test the OMP, remove the ECU and inspect it for any burn marks or corrosion on both sides of the circuit board. Take pictures and post them when possible.
In summary, verify the spark plugs are installed correctly then install new spark plug wires. Next, inspect the ECU for any burn marks or corrosion on both sides of the circuit board. Then test the OMP as outlined in the FSM, Pg D-17. Please tell us what you find!
11-06-17, 06:58 PM
