hi guys does my car have a 16 pin OBD , ? so I can take it into get diagnostic test ??? other wise I'll have to rent a car trailer & drive 2hrs to rotary specialist

 

It has OBD1. Not sure about the 16 pin connector to plug into a diagnostic tester. Probably not since that is OBD2. You can pull code without it. but grounding a test connector and reading the flashes of the check engine light as described here.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...f-ecu-1094598/

 

does not have the 16 pin OBD2 connector, so you're boned.

 

Not necessarily. Pulling codes is easy peasy once you know how to do it. Somewhere in the FAQ is links to the FSM which has all the codes in it.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...faq-fc-494667/

 

OBD2 was required on cars beginning with model year 1996. Therefore, the FD and below have the older OBD 1 standard. The FSM does show you how to pull CEL codes. Basically, a paper clip jumped between the test connector leads will enable you to pull codes.

More importatly, why are you asking? What is the problem with your FC?

 

Read my other post , car starts great, idles ok drives on primaries , but when I put foot on throttles it bogs out, I've checked for air leaks, new plugs, new fuel filter , it's like air mixture maybe a bit out But was running great until I adjusted top idle screw next to throttle body, car idled at 400 rpm give it a rev and it slowly revs up to 900, give it a rev and it might drop back to 600 rpm, STARTS great even from cold start , IDLES ok maybe a slight up and down in revs not erratic , I have cleaned motor , I checked all hoses and looked for a plug I might of knocked off, , if u put ur foot down on pedal slow even rev it gets like a flat spot, but if u give it a quick rev it's fine **** me it's driving me nuts can't boost in secondaries I KNOW ITS not much , it doesn't seem to have a dizzy to clean points cos it's like it's got dirty points lol but it aint

 

I tried pulling codes I earthed out single green pin beside battery but no engine check light came on, opened up dash board on bulb in , so I took the boot bulb that was going & put it in engine check spot STILL no engine check light , , rotary shop hrs away, if I drive at 60kmh in 5th on primaries will I **** it??? I'll prob hire a trailer and I bet I'll get there and he will laugh at me cos it's prob something fuckn simple

 

Unless the car's CEL is on then trying to check ECU codes will not help your situation.

It sounds like some of your adjustments are out of spec, such as TPS for example. Refer to the FSM and other helpful forum threads relevant to your adjustments.

It's easy to be frustrated when sorting things out however, have the perseverance, follow a logical & methodical approach to solve each problem.

Best of luck on your repair!

Cheers,
George

 

so no CEL is a good thing right ,

 

Just because the ECU doesn't throw a CEL doesn't mean it's a good situation. The ECU monitors the basic of functions.

Based upon your original thread and this one, I recommend reading up on TPS, idle speed adjustments, and verify that your ignition wires are connected properly. Your problem seems to be exaggerated by the idle adjust.

Verify that wires from L1 coil goto L1 plug, L2 coil to L2 plug, T1 coil to T1 plug, and T2 coil to T2 plug.

I would unplug each lead then reconnect at each plug to ensure all wires are firmly connected.

Cheers,
George

 

Great idea so L1 plug is that lower plug closest to gearbox ??? And T1 top plug closest to gear box?

 

Dam L1 was connected to L2 front Lower plug is L1 aye Top front plug is T1 is that correct??

 

Refer to the FSM, Section G, Pg G-27 (approx). It will show you everything needed for spark plug location and type.

Cheers,
George

 

Please verify the correct plug is installed in the proper location. Again, Pg G-27 has a chart for the different type of plugs for leading and trailing locations.

 

I hope I haven't damaged anything driving it up and down my street like that,I'll check all plugs in correct position and go for a quick drive see if that fixed prob THANKS MATE

 

Glad to help. The motor will be fine.

General rule of thumb:
...7EQ plug is leading
...9EQ plug is trailing

L1 plug is low on front housing
T1 plug is high on front housing

L2 plug is low on rear housing
T2 plug is high on rear housing

Cheers,
George

 

i think you're better off going to a rotary specialist, since youre doing things incorrectly before even getting replies.

#1 is toward the front of the car, not toward the gearbox.

 

Ok got plugs in correct position took it for a spin it was awesome boosting great thru all gears for the first 2 km them back to flat sporting ,, hmmmm off to shop I go �� at least I know it's nothing major, THANKS FOR ALL U GUYS TRYING TO HELP, why would die out when u plant foot down maybe I'll by new leads anyway

 

sounds like a bad OMP to me.

 

The main question about OBD was answered earlier in this thread. However, the conversation side tracked to the OP's real problem (admittedly, I asked the question). Let's carry the conversation back over to the OP's original thread here: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...floor-1119898/

Cheers,
George

 

i pretty much gave the same suggestion in both threads, he seems to be all over the place and potentially creating more problems.

but i'd put all my chips on it simply being a bad OMP.

 

while a lot of cars have OBD2....Only Rx7's have OBI- WAN!

 

Insightful,

Yes, you are correct. I added some pearls of wisdom to his related thread. It sounded like Chicken Little saying the sky was falling. Hopefully, he gets the car running right.

You may be right about the OMP. But wouldn't it throw a CEL when it goes into limp mode? I am not up to speed with limp mode so I would need to read up on it.

It also sounded like his plug wires were cross connected. I also wonder if the proper plug was used in the right socket!

Styx,

Looks like someone is excited about the upcoming Star Wars movie!

Cheers,
George

 

everyone in both threads assumes aussie S5 cars have a check engine light, if it doesn't it would complicate the matter much further in that he would need to buy a factory diagnostic reader or make an LED test tool to retrieve codes. the OBDI systems also do not store codes, so if he even cycles the key before trying to pull codes they could vanish.

i don't know if they even have a check engine light or its highly likely the bulb failed as well, since it is a 30 year old car now.

no one asked if the check engine light illuminates as soon as the key is turned on momentarily to verify it's there and operational. but it's all in the FSM and i'm not paid to diagnose a car 10000 miles away, personally he sounds too inexperienced and could potentially do more harm than good.

 

I think he changed the CEL bulb but I couldn't understand his message. Yes, you are correct. No one asked Bellboy7 if the CEL is on during engine start/lamp test.