91 rx7 in limp mode?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
91 rx7 in limp mode?
Hi all i just picked up a clean 91 rx7 5 speed with 77k miles for $1000! it starts right up and idles fine but after a good while at idle itll click and almost stall then click and do it again then stop but i cant go past 3k or so rpm or itll sputter which im 99% sure this is just limp mode. anyone got any ideas? i know its probably the OMP and the CEL is on but i have no way to test that right now
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
edit: nevermind!!! http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERRORC...KI/kerror.html that helped me out much BUT IM CONFUSED ON HOW TO READ THE FLASHES!
Last edited by Brian Deane; 05-22-16 at 08:52 PM.
#4
Retired Moderator, RIP
iTrader: (142)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 0
Received 131 Likes
on
114 Posts
ever heard of MORSE CODE?..
it is basically like that..only with lights.
if the number is say 13 then the flashing CEL light would show ONE LONG flash...followed by BLIP,BLIP,BLIP.
If there are multiple codes then it will "pause" in between codes.
SO..say 13 and 11...LONG..Blip,Blip,Blip......................... .................LONG..Blip...........
it is basically like that..only with lights.
if the number is say 13 then the flashing CEL light would show ONE LONG flash...followed by BLIP,BLIP,BLIP.
If there are multiple codes then it will "pause" in between codes.
SO..say 13 and 11...LONG..Blip,Blip,Blip......................... .................LONG..Blip...........
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
ever heard of MORSE CODE?..
it is basically like that..only with lights.
if the number is say 13 then the flashing CEL light would show ONE LONG flash...followed by BLIP,BLIP,BLIP.
If there are multiple codes then it will "pause" in between codes.
SO..say 13 and 11...LONG..Blip,Blip,Blip......................... .................LONG..Blip...........
it is basically like that..only with lights.
if the number is say 13 then the flashing CEL light would show ONE LONG flash...followed by BLIP,BLIP,BLIP.
If there are multiple codes then it will "pause" in between codes.
SO..say 13 and 11...LONG..Blip,Blip,Blip......................... .................LONG..Blip...........
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
okay so i used a single speaker wire from the SINGLE green connector on the battery side and connected it to the plug then to the - on battery and my CEL didnt flash? i tried multiple grounds with no luck but my CEL is on when the cars running... im so confused
Trending Topics
#9
Full Member
Thread Starter
i did that! and theres 2 green connectors on each side of the car near the strut tower but it said to use the one on the battery side of the car which i did..i actually used both and my light didnt flash
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
#13
Full Member
Thread Starter
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Okay, lets get the story straight. You previously stated the light stays on w/the car running. Correct? Now does the light turn on or not turn on w/key to on when checking for codes. And do you realize that when you turn the key to on to check codes that means you are not to start the car, but to just have the key in the on position, which is different than the start position.
#15
Full Member
Thread Starter
Okay, lets get the story straight. You previously stated the light stays on w/the car running. Correct? Now does the light turn on or not turn on w/key to on when checking for codes. And do you realize that when you turn the key to on to check codes that means you are not to start the car, but to just have the key in the on position, which is different than the start position.
#16
Full Member
Thread Starter
IF its the OMP can i remove it and clean it all up and have it work again? is that a possibility? the car only has 77k miles i wouldnt imagine it would of **** the bed already but it was sitting in a air conditioned storage unit for a few years
#17
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
What's to say it wasn't fubar for all these years. If the OMP is problematic then there's a good chance it has damaged the ECU. Opening the ECU and looking for burnt spots is a giveaway. Perhaps the cost of the car w/only 77k was also an insight into the car's history for it should have cost a moderate amount more than $1,000 if everything was on the up and up.
You could try unplugging the boost sensor plug and retry the pulling code method. Additionally speaking, try placing the wire into the back of the plug and shove the wire such that it comes in contact w/the Orange wire and give the test another opportunity.
Lastly, you already had a thread up and running and now you have two.
You could try unplugging the boost sensor plug and retry the pulling code method. Additionally speaking, try placing the wire into the back of the plug and shove the wire such that it comes in contact w/the Orange wire and give the test another opportunity.
Lastly, you already had a thread up and running and now you have two.
#18
Full Member
Thread Starter
What's to say it wasn't fubar for all these years. If the OMP is problematic then there's a good chance it has damaged the ECU. Opening the ECU and looking for burnt spots is a giveaway. Perhaps the cost of the car w/only 77k was also an insight into the car's history for it should have cost a moderate amount more than $1,000 if everything was on the up and up.
You could try unplugging the boost sensor plug and retry the pulling code method. Additionally speaking, try placing the wire into the back of the plug and shove the wire such that it comes in contact w/the Orange wire and give the test another opportunity.
Lastly, you already had a thread up and running and now you have two.
You could try unplugging the boost sensor plug and retry the pulling code method. Additionally speaking, try placing the wire into the back of the plug and shove the wire such that it comes in contact w/the Orange wire and give the test another opportunity.
Lastly, you already had a thread up and running and now you have two.
#19
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Just for the heck of it you can disconnect the negative battery terminal for a couple of minutes to clear the codes from the ECU and give it another try. The FSM shows how to test the OMP but I doubt cleaning it up will offer much difference unless the unit has a poor plug connection.
#20
Full Member
Thread Starter
here are some pictures of the ECU.. thing isnt burnt up at all it seems like but it looks like water has gotten in there at one point its all corroded in some spots and ive tried resetting my ecu already :/ im so lost right now
Last edited by Brian Deane; 05-23-16 at 09:46 PM.
#21
Full Member
Thread Starter
weird i just wiped everything off plugged it in and turned the key to on and the CEL isnt even on while the cars off and only in on position i cant start it now its super late and its loud but i hope that fixed something
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
adror8
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
3
04-14-16 11:03 PM