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Hi all i just picked up a clean 91 rx7 5 speed with 77k miles for $1000! it starts right up and idles fine but after a good while at idle itll click and almost stall then click and do it again then stop but i cant go past 3k or so rpm or itll sputter which im 99% sure this is just limp mode. anyone got any ideas? i know its probably the OMP and the CEL is on but i have no way to test that right now
Why can't you test it? All you have to do is ground the Orange wire in the single wire Green check connector located near the lead coil and w/key to on the CEL will tell you what specifically the codes are.
Why can't you test it? All you have to do is ground the Orange wire in the single wire Green check connector located near the lead coil and w/key to on the CEL will tell you what specifically the codes are.
whaaaat really? can you explain it better ill do it tomorrow
ever heard of MORSE CODE?..
it is basically like that..only with lights.
if the number is say 13 then the flashing CEL light would show ONE LONG flash...followed by BLIP,BLIP,BLIP.
If there are multiple codes then it will "pause" in between codes.
SO..say 13 and 11...LONG..Blip,Blip,Blip......................... .................LONG..Blip...........
ever heard of MORSE CODE?..
it is basically like that..only with lights.
if the number is say 13 then the flashing CEL light would show ONE LONG flash...followed by BLIP,BLIP,BLIP.
If there are multiple codes then it will "pause" in between codes.
SO..say 13 and 11...LONG..Blip,Blip,Blip......................... .................LONG..Blip...........
perfect way of explaining it! thank you very much ill get back to this thread tomorrow with the code and hopefully someone can help me out with a fix
okay so i used a single speaker wire from the SINGLE green connector on the battery side and connected it to the plug then to the - on battery and my CEL didnt flash? i tried multiple grounds with no luck but my CEL is on when the cars running... im so confused
Use the negative terminal on the battery for the ground. And what do you mean by "battery side."
i did that! and theres 2 green connectors on each side of the car near the strut tower but it said to use the one on the battery side of the car which i did..i actually used both and my light didnt flash
i did that! and theres 2 green connectors on each side of the car near the strut tower but it said to use the one on the battery side of the car which i did..i actually used both and my light didnt flash
No. It was told to you that there is a Green check connector with only one wire and that wire was colored Orange.
Did the light previously stay on before you tested for codes?
yeah its always been on :/ since i got it yesterday! i got a great deal on it so im just trying to diagnosis it for now! but i cant if it wont let me get the code
Okay, lets get the story straight. You previously stated the light stays on w/the car running. Correct? Now does the light turn on or not turn on w/key to on when checking for codes. And do you realize that when you turn the key to on to check codes that means you are not to start the car, but to just have the key in the on position, which is different than the start position.
Okay, lets get the story straight. You previously stated the light stays on w/the car running. Correct? Now does the light turn on or not turn on w/key to on when checking for codes. And do you realize that when you turn the key to on to check codes that means you are not to start the car, but to just have the key in the on position, which is different than the start position.
okay lol yes the light is on with the car running, and the key is all the up right before the option to start it so all the lights are on and radio ect! the light just stays on in that position am i doing it wrong? im not testing with the car running im testing it with the key all the way closest to start
IF its the OMP can i remove it and clean it all up and have it work again? is that a possibility? the car only has 77k miles i wouldnt imagine it would of **** the bed already but it was sitting in a air conditioned storage unit for a few years
What's to say it wasn't fubar for all these years. If the OMP is problematic then there's a good chance it has damaged the ECU. Opening the ECU and looking for burnt spots is a giveaway. Perhaps the cost of the car w/only 77k was also an insight into the car's history for it should have cost a moderate amount more than $1,000 if everything was on the up and up.
You could try unplugging the boost sensor plug and retry the pulling code method. Additionally speaking, try placing the wire into the back of the plug and shove the wire such that it comes in contact w/the Orange wire and give the test another opportunity.
Lastly, you already had a thread up and running and now you have two.
What's to say it wasn't fubar for all these years. If the OMP is problematic then there's a good chance it has damaged the ECU. Opening the ECU and looking for burnt spots is a giveaway. Perhaps the cost of the car w/only 77k was also an insight into the car's history for it should have cost a moderate amount more than $1,000 if everything was on the up and up.
You could try unplugging the boost sensor plug and retry the pulling code method. Additionally speaking, try placing the wire into the back of the plug and shove the wire such that it comes in contact w/the Orange wire and give the test another opportunity.
Lastly, you already had a thread up and running and now you have two.
it was currently registered and driven for a year by an older lady so this must be somewhat recent im guessing but im gonna pull the ecu and check it out and replace the resistors if theyre burnt out and pull the omp and clean it and all the connections and pray to rx7 jesus that itll work for a little while lol and yeah i know! the title on this was misleading though so i made that one sorry :p
Just for the heck of it you can disconnect the negative battery terminal for a couple of minutes to clear the codes from the ECU and give it another try. The FSM shows how to test the OMP but I doubt cleaning it up will offer much difference unless the unit has a poor plug connection.
here are some pictures of the ECU.. thing isnt burnt up at all it seems like but it looks like water has gotten in there at one point its all corroded in some spots and ive tried resetting my ecu already :/ im so lost right now
Last edited by Brian Deane; May 23, 2016 at 09:46 PM.
weird i just wiped everything off plugged it in and turned the key to on and the CEL isnt even on while the cars off and only in on position i cant start it now its super late and its loud but i hope that fixed something
91 rx7 in limp mode?
sorry :p
