starts but no idle
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,596
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That's awesome. Glad you fixed it. Im Having similar issues, and a huge lean issue right now. My injectors are being cleaned and flow tested now, I hope that's it.
My power and ground wire are getting hot to the touch I'm running 4gauge wire going to upgrade into 2gauge my reason is because my starter is running slow and I hope this fixes my problem
The negative cable coming off of the battery grounds to the fender so perhaps this needs to cleaned up. The ground cable runs to the starter so perhaps this connection needs to be cleaned as well. The battery clamps might also be poor.
This is how I have my starter set up the ground is connected to the chassis near the strut tower on the driver side. My starter power wire is connected directly to the bat. the previous owner had connected a ground wire to the uim hook and that's directed to the bat. My main power wire is currently a 4gauge wire but it also runs straight to the battery
Previous owner had relocated my battery to the inside behind driver seat it ran perfectly a few days before it gave out so I'm stumped on how now its not getting enough power
My volts drop down under 9 volts after I turn the key
Previous owner had relocated my battery to the inside behind driver seat it ran perfectly a few days before it gave out so I'm stumped on how now its not getting enough power
My volts drop down under 9 volts after I turn the key
So Ive been busy with work and getting ready for my baby girl but here is an update I decided to take my fc to my mechanic and somehow I'm giving my starter too much power and im blowing the solenoid luckily I have a lifetime warranty and I can just replace the complete starter going to get a starter Monday but meanwhile what would cause this type of problem I'm also going to run completely new starter wire
Going to be adding a inline 200amp circuit breaker
Going to be adding a inline 200amp circuit breaker
Too much power to the starter.... Never heard that one before..
If you're blowing solenoids it's sounds like not enough power.. on the trigger wire... relay fixes this..
The only way you could have too much power is if you are running two batteries in series, ie 24v, then you might maybe have a little too much... like 12v too much!
If you're blowing solenoids it's sounds like not enough power.. on the trigger wire... relay fixes this..
The only way you could have too much power is if you are running two batteries in series, ie 24v, then you might maybe have a little too much... like 12v too much!
The relay can be bypassed by jumpering the B/W wire to the thicker of the two B/G wires in the relay plug. If you truly had too much voltage reaching the starter solenoid then this jumpering would not affect that.
So my problem seems to be a grounding issue when I ground my starter to the chassis I was getting a short so I eliminated that ground connection now it runs perfect but as one problem gets finished a new one rises
My engine is running really rich at the moment I saving up to buy a downpipe so I can install my wideband and determine how rich I'm actually running
I had made a hole on a rubber vaccume cap on the UIM only so I can give my engine air
My engine is running really rich at the moment I saving up to buy a downpipe so I can install my wideband and determine how rich I'm actually running
I had made a hole on a rubber vaccume cap on the UIM only so I can give my engine air
Yeah exactly like that but doesn't matter it works perfect without it but my current situation I need to find how to adjust the air fuel mixture I heard of the screw on top of the Tb but somehow my tb doesn't have that screw or am I looking at the wrong location
The idle adjust screw on a turbo is located on the BAC.
OK well I got all emissions removed including the bac is my problem simple as to jus adjusting the throttle position screw I've had to make a hole on a vacumme cap to give my engine some air to help with idle
The BAC is not an emissions item as its sole purpose is to help maintain idle when load is placed on the car. When the idle drops below 750 rpm the BAC helps compensate by adding more metered air to the engine. You need the BAC.





