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starts but no idle

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Old 01-21-15, 06:08 AM
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That's awesome. Glad you fixed it. Im Having similar issues, and a huge lean issue right now. My injectors are being cleaned and flow tested now, I hope that's it.
Old 01-26-15, 06:08 PM
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My power and ground wire are getting hot to the touch I'm running 4gauge wire going to upgrade into 2gauge my reason is because my starter is running slow and I hope this fixes my problem
Old 01-26-15, 06:54 PM
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The negative cable coming off of the battery grounds to the fender so perhaps this needs to cleaned up. The ground cable runs to the starter so perhaps this connection needs to be cleaned as well. The battery clamps might also be poor.
Old 01-26-15, 09:33 PM
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This is how I have my starter set up the ground is connected to the chassis near the strut tower on the driver side. My starter power wire is connected directly to the bat. the previous owner had connected a ground wire to the uim hook and that's directed to the bat. My main power wire is currently a 4gauge wire but it also runs straight to the battery

Previous owner had relocated my battery to the inside behind driver seat it ran perfectly a few days before it gave out so I'm stumped on how now its not getting enough power

My volts drop down under 9 volts after I turn the key
Old 02-08-15, 01:21 AM
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So Ive been busy with work and getting ready for my baby girl but here is an update I decided to take my fc to my mechanic and somehow I'm giving my starter too much power and im blowing the solenoid luckily I have a lifetime warranty and I can just replace the complete starter going to get a starter Monday but meanwhile what would cause this type of problem I'm also going to run completely new starter wire

Going to be adding a inline 200amp circuit breaker
Old 02-08-15, 01:43 AM
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Too much power to the starter.... Never heard that one before..

If you're blowing solenoids it's sounds like not enough power.. on the trigger wire... relay fixes this..

The only way you could have too much power is if you are running two batteries in series, ie 24v, then you might maybe have a little too much... like 12v too much!
Old 02-12-15, 01:26 AM
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OK so I read that I can bypass the starter relay any truth to that and what do I lose by doing so
Old 02-12-15, 03:24 AM
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Bypass?? I don't think so... I'm not even sure it has one.. Would be a good idea to put one in though.. on the trigger wire from the key switch..
Old 02-12-15, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 87nitefc
OK so I read that I can bypass the starter relay any truth to that and what do I lose by doing so
The relay can be bypassed by jumpering the B/W wire to the thicker of the two B/G wires in the relay plug. If you truly had too much voltage reaching the starter solenoid then this jumpering would not affect that.
Old 02-12-15, 10:59 PM
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So since I have to wait what causes a starter solenoid to blow out
Old 02-19-15, 01:09 PM
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So my problem seems to be a grounding issue when I ground my starter to the chassis I was getting a short so I eliminated that ground connection now it runs perfect but as one problem gets finished a new one rises

My engine is running really rich at the moment I saving up to buy a downpipe so I can install my wideband and determine how rich I'm actually running

I had made a hole on a rubber vaccume cap on the UIM only so I can give my engine air
Old 02-20-15, 12:13 PM
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The ground cable from the battery runs to the driver's side fender and then down to the mounting bolt of the starter. Is this how you originally had it connected to the starter.
Old 02-20-15, 12:44 PM
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Yeah exactly like that but doesn't matter it works perfect without it but my current situation I need to find how to adjust the air fuel mixture I heard of the screw on top of the Tb but somehow my tb doesn't have that screw or am I looking at the wrong location
Old 02-20-15, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 87nitefc
Yeah exactly like that but doesn't matter it works perfect without it but my current situation I need to find how to adjust the air fuel mixture I heard of the screw on top of the Tb but somehow my tb doesn't have that screw or am I looking at the wrong location
Does not make sense.

The idle adjust screw on a turbo is located on the BAC.
Old 02-20-15, 02:03 PM
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OK well I got all emissions removed including the bac is my problem simple as to jus adjusting the throttle position screw I've had to make a hole on a vacumme cap to give my engine some air to help with idle
Old 02-20-15, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 87nitefc
OK well I got all emissions removed including the bac is my problem simple as to jus adjusting the throttle position screw I've had to make a hole on a vacumme cap to give my engine some air to help with idle
The BAC is not an emissions item as its sole purpose is to help maintain idle when load is placed on the car. When the idle drops below 750 rpm the BAC helps compensate by adding more metered air to the engine. You need the BAC.
Old 02-20-15, 02:09 PM
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Help me understand why would it be removed remember I received the car as it is so I have no idea how the prior owner was thinking
Old 02-20-15, 02:18 PM
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He was not thinking is likely the most obvious cause.
Old 02-20-15, 02:34 PM
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So is there any way to bypass the bac to reduce the amount of fuel
Old 02-20-15, 02:55 PM
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Just find a used replacement and install it and reduce the associated problems of not having one.
Old 02-20-15, 04:59 PM
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OK after some thinking is it possible to use a bac from another car???
Old 02-20-15, 05:08 PM
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Wats my best choice in choosing a proper idle air control valve
Old 02-20-15, 05:08 PM
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Wats my best choice in choosing a proper idle air control valve from a different vehicle
Old 02-20-15, 05:20 PM
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How much different is the bac from a fc3s turbo 2 compared to a FD
Old 02-20-15, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 87nitefc
Wats my best choice in choosing a proper idle air control valve
It's a BAC and not a ACV. You'll need one made for the specific car model and in this case a turbo. Don't know if a S5 and S4 are interchangeable, though.


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