87nitefc

as the title says my fc starts but fails to keep idle it been flooded for maybe 3 years maybe less idk if it maybe to blame but it may start for 1min on a full battery then after it dies if I rev it it stays on for a few sec more until it loses power and dies is the battery to blame idk what to blame battery does get drain could it be the alt not recharging??? any help plz 9-1-1 I got until the end of the year or im going to have to junk it which im not happy about plz give me any advice where I should start inspecting

my battery is a refurbished but it did have full power when I purchased not sure how much is left right now
87 fc tubo 2

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

1. Shut up

2. Search

3. Charge your battery

4. When its idling, spray carb cleaner or starter fluid around the manifolds, without starting a fire, and listen for RPM changes. If it changes you have a vacuum leak. Replace vacuum lines and/or LIM/UIM gaskets

5. Deflood procedure: Rotary Performance - Tech - 86-91 Unflood Procedures

satch

iTrader: (1)

What does "been flooded for maybe 3 years maybe less" mean?

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

Allow me to translate:

As the title says, my fc starts but it fails to keep idle. It will turn for 1 min on a full battery then it dies. If I give it gas, it will run for a few more seconds only to die anyway. Could the battery be to blame? It has been flooded for 3 years or less and I'm not sure what to blame. The battery always dies. Could it be the alt not recharging??? Any help is appreciated. I have until the end of the year or I'm going to have to junk it which I'm not happy about. Where should I start?

The battery was bought used but with a full charge.

87 fc tubo 2

87nitefc

i meant to say my fc had been stopped for nearly 3 years prior from me picking it up i would say it had been flooded since i already pulled the spark plugs and fuse in order to deflood the engine it worked for a few secs until the engine seems to had drained the battery causing it to shut off i tried connecting jumper cables and a jump starter to maintain power but failed the idle did seem a lil jumpy i tried adjusting the **** near the TB in hope that would fix my idle/starting problem i have been able to start the car numerous times just that it never seems to be able to hold idle for no more then 20 sec

im going to check all my vacuum lines later today im using the bottom vacuum line connection for my BOV its on the front 3 vacuum lines on the intake mani is this a good position to place my BOV line or should i relocate

idk if an exhaust leak can explain my idle problem its between my downpipe and turbo

satch

iTrader: (1)

The injectors could be clogged after all this time including the fuel filter. And as suggested, there could be a vacuum leak.

87nitefc

I counted 11 vacuum line conections 3 on the front 4 on the rear of the mani & 1 of the master cyl then there's 2 on top and 1 on the passenger side of the mani correct me please if I'm missing any I replaced all these with new rubber covers I'm going to place a new gasket on the mani hopefully that may solve any leak problems

Btw I tried starting today and seems to start a lot easier I did spray some starter fluid worked pretty good but couldnt find anywhere that was leaking I sprayed it directly in the TB also

Now if the injectors are clogged how should I go by cleaning them a DIY kinda way I enjoy that kind of stuff lol while I'm there I'm going to replace my fuel filter and fuel lines they all look really old like they seen better days

thanks to everyone thus far I appreciate it hopefully the problem gets discovered soon

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

send the injectors out to be professionally serviced.
there is no real DIY way to clean them.
Try WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services or Injector-Rehab Fuel Injector Cleaning Services (those 2 places are fast and reliable)

By the way you can get vacuum line routing at Foxed.ca in the Factory service manual online.
Don't assume counting the nipples and placing hoses on them is correct.

87nitefc

Ok but my injectors seem to be working great my fc fires up and if I press the throttle it responds I'm sure cleaning them would help but if my fc starts for 20sec doesn't that prove that the injectors are doing enough to get the engine running

I was tould by a friend that I should keep cranking her up eventully she will catch enough power to keep herself running any truth to that???

now the vacuum lines idk haven't had a chance to look it up but what other steps should help in my process of getting her back to idle conditions

w0ppe

It proves your injectors are squirting enough fuel for idle; however, there isn't any load on the motor and therefore, your injectors aren't to do anything different. The mapping doesn't really change for idle.

As far as to keep on cranking, like keep cranking the starter for 30 seconds at a time? This is a good way to melt your starter motor and solenoid... I've found some people to find a fix by doing so; but usually it's due to another problem and it'll resurface the next time you drive it.

You can't jump steps in finding idle issues. If you didn't check one thing, you'll never know if it's causing the problem or not. The next steps after fuel injectors and vacuum lines, check your spark. Spark plugs, wires, CAS, battery, alternator and all the other electrical goodness.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

I'd try a different MAF as well....

87nitefc

Ok so today after work i tried starting like always it starts for a few secs but could my alternator be bad I did buy it with the intentions to test if my fc would crank now I'm thinkin if it's cranking and starting jus not holding power/ rechargeing my battery could it be a possible reason it's too weak somehow???

I mean I think it was taken from a s4 NA and I'm using it for a s4 turbo is there a difference??
How much amps is needed to run a car with only it's engine wireing
Nothin like ac system or sound system nothin that would eat too much power my car is bare shell motor and necessary lighting and wireing


I'm going to take it and get tested soon hopefully I can get how many amps I'm gettin from it I'll let you guys know when I get the results now I'm going to ask what is best for my UIM as a temp gasket

As for my spark plugs when I deflooded my engine I looked at them and cleaned them out with the gasoline was there and they looked really good yeah 2 had been turned black from the tip but nothin serious I'm not an expert but they did seem good to me it will be replaced later down the road
Thanks for the info tho anything else that could help

satch

iTrader: (1)

The battery can only charge if the car runs. Running for twenty seconds is not sufficient to charge the battery, while repeatedly starting the car and it only running for twenty seconds will drain the battery eventually. The electrical needs at least 12 volts to run the car.

87nitefc

Ok that sounds about right but what route should I go with this personally It feels like there isn't enough power to maintain itself going even if I connect jumper cables

yesterday I had also removed a vacuums line cover obviously it idled higher but still died seems to last a bit longer idleing

Ok 12volts so it's a good idea to grab a multimeter and test thru out the car the volts

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you jump the car and leave it jumpered while idling that should be enough voltage to keep the car running. The Black output cable of the alternator should read about 14 volts when the engine is running. You might want to unplug the AFM and jumper the fuel check connector and see if the engine idles longer. If it does, the exhaust manifold will eventually heat up and begin to glow so don't run the car too long in this manner.

There are other vacuum leak possibilities besides the smallish rubber vacuum hoses. Gaskets, intake tube, etc.

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

There's also the possibility of a vacuum leak at the uim gasket and the injector orings. You should check for a leak with a smoke or carb cleaner test and see where that leaves you.

87nitefc

Well that's what I'm doing I'm actually leaving the jumper cables connected directly to the battery post terminals while at later times when battery gets low I connect my jump starter aswell that usually helps a lot

But I am going to check my I o rings and other gaskets btw is the top bolt on the intake mani suppose to get hot

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

I'm sure it will if the engine temperature gets up.

87nitefc

What's a smoke test I sprayed starter fluid all over the the mani and can't find a spot where it would increase my rpm I'm literally lost with where my leak could be I'm going to buy new o rings hopefully this week and seal my UIM with jb weld

87nitefc

Did a lil research is this the proper stock # for my o-rings 158-0372 for the tan 550cc injectors
I know there actually beck arney but would they still fit

87nitefc

Ok so I jus remembered about a condensor plug that is next to the oil filter that I haven't connected what does this condensor plug do should I leave how it is not connected or should It actually be connected

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

You use a smoke machine and see if the smoke get sucked in anywhere. I wouldn't put JB weld on my intake under any circumstances. The beck arnley orings will work but make sure to put a little oil on them before installation.

87nitefc

So this is what i found today that's red wire on the CAS but can anyone confirm what that red wires purpose is??
It's located on the crank angle sensor
I'm going to test this out tomorrow hopefully jus repairing this should fix my problem

satch

iTrader: (1)

The condenser is not vitally important. The CAS sends info to the ECU so it can calculate ignition thus the Red wire is vital.

87nitefc

Sadly it didn't fix anything I'm guessing I had probably ripped it when I pulled my uim last night well back to square one

This is what I'm currently working with excuse the bad video quality but let me know if its any help my dash boost gauge is no good apparently nothing is any good other then my tach

BTW its now idleing less then before

87 Fc3s TII starts but no idle: