starts but no idle
12-26-14, 08:59 AM
#51
So I'm going to test everything that could cause a no idle starting with fuel system I'm most likely going to replace my fuel pump any good options please let me know
Next is my spark plugs after TB/TPS and I'm leaving these last since there going to be the biggest price difference --- afm/injectors but maybe where my problem is at
Since my dash oil pressure gauge is not working I'm going with a mechanical gauge replacing the electrical unit that's under the oil filter
YAY or NAY????
Talking about gauges where is best to install a water temp gauge unit I've heard of the lower water outlet is best ???? Any opinions
Next is my spark plugs after TB/TPS and I'm leaving these last since there going to be the biggest price difference --- afm/injectors but maybe where my problem is at
Since my dash oil pressure gauge is not working I'm going with a mechanical gauge replacing the electrical unit that's under the oil filter
YAY or NAY????
Talking about gauges where is best to install a water temp gauge unit I've heard of the lower water outlet is best ???? Any opinions
When it comes to water temp, beind the water pump is best, but not the easiest to accomplish
12-26-14, 10:55 AM
#52
The TPS is not preventing the car from being started so that should not be a focus of yours. If you replace the fuel pump buy one that is compatible w/a turbo so you supply the right amount of fuel to the engine (people seem to prefer the Walbro). If you have the circuit opening relay jumpered you want to make sure the Blue wire has voltage w/key to on. And you might want to check the Blue wire in the rear harness for the same voltage before it connects to the fuel pump pigtail. Do this if you have the fuel pump relay and resistor located underneath the air box.
Last edited by satch; 12-26-14 at 11:01 AM.
12-27-14, 02:13 PM
#53
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Thread Starter
OK so I did look for a spot for the water temp behind and the spot I found was too small to fit my fitting
So tps is staying then lol
Walbro pump it is whats the most common model
and most likely I'm going to test the blue wire later today
So tps is staying then lol
Walbro pump it is whats the most common model
and most likely I'm going to test the blue wire later today
12-29-14, 12:20 AM
#54
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Thread Starter
So these are the plugs you guys had asked to test on the relay the blue wire is with red on the fuel pump harness its blue only so are these the same ??? My test read 9.40 at the relay and 10.14 at the pump I doubt its the same wire I must be working on the wrong wire
Why is this jumped i believe its f-15 on the FSM I'll double check later I'm jus asking because I saw it when I got under to look at the relay its blk/yellow with yellow
Why is this jumped i believe its f-15 on the FSM I'll double check later I'm jus asking because I saw it when I got under to look at the relay its blk/yellow with yellow
12-29-14, 08:10 PM
#56
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01-10-15, 05:45 PM
#60
I can't read the numbers off of your gauge but the fuel pressure should be close to 100 if it is dead headed after the fuel filter. Is this what you are doing or is the gauge in line?
Have you tried spraying 1 to 2 seconds of starter spray into the air intake?
Have you checked for spark?
Have you eyed the timing to see if it looks good?
Have you had the injectors cleaned and taken care of the O ring problem you described.
Have you tried spraying 1 to 2 seconds of starter spray into the air intake?
Have you checked for spark?
Have you eyed the timing to see if it looks good?
Have you had the injectors cleaned and taken care of the O ring problem you described.
01-10-15, 07:59 PM
#61
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Thread Starter
Yeah o rings have been fixed
Its a inline fuel pressure gauge in the video its reading 40psi and drops as I rev its directly inline with the fuel filter I show a better video later
Its a inline fuel pressure gauge in the video its reading 40psi and drops as I rev its directly inline with the fuel filter I show a better video later
01-10-15, 10:57 PM
#63
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Sounds like timing retarded to the **** house to me..
40 psi is fine..
are the HT leads in the right spots?
Try turning the CAS clockwise.. Is the wiring all good to the CAS?. Could two of the wires have been reversed.
40 psi is fine..
are the HT leads in the right spots?
Try turning the CAS clockwise.. Is the wiring all good to the CAS?. Could two of the wires have been reversed.
01-10-15, 11:26 PM
#64
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Thread Starter
How can I check my cas and why would this be my cause ??
Injectors and maf seems to be the biggest response to why it's not working obviously I need to send my injectors to test but how can I test my maf sensor to find out if that's my problem
For spark how should this be done do I test voltage on the coils or what is the process???
I'm going to do a compression test soon
any ideas??? Ive seen on many posts that you can't jus get a regular compression tester you need a special one any input on this or is it just not as accurate???
Injectors and maf seems to be the biggest response to why it's not working obviously I need to send my injectors to test but how can I test my maf sensor to find out if that's my problem
For spark how should this be done do I test voltage on the coils or what is the process???
I'm going to do a compression test soon
any ideas??? Ive seen on many posts that you can't jus get a regular compression tester you need a special one any input on this or is it just not as accurate???
01-11-15, 02:15 AM
#65
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Sorry. Threads been going for ages.. That's just how it sounds to me..
If it's sparking at the right time it's obviously*lean...
So...
Fuel pressure is good so must be electrical.. Or injectors..
Cheapest first.. Coolant temp sensor parameters and wiring (they normally get crusty behind there).
Injector test and clean if needed...
Failing all of this. Try to find a second hand maf and ecu that you know is good.
Are there any other symptoms.. Dim dash lights or anything?
If it's sparking at the right time it's obviously*lean...
So...
Fuel pressure is good so must be electrical.. Or injectors..
Cheapest first.. Coolant temp sensor parameters and wiring (they normally get crusty behind there).
Injector test and clean if needed...
Failing all of this. Try to find a second hand maf and ecu that you know is good.
Are there any other symptoms.. Dim dash lights or anything?
01-11-15, 12:25 PM
#67
Try 1 to 2 seconds of starter spray shot into the air intake. If the car starts for a brief time then the spark is probably good. You can also test for spark by pulling the spark plug wire off of the coil and place the plug wire a fraction of an inch away from the coil bore and w/key to start you should see flickers of spark. You would try this on the lead coil (both wires).
01-20-15, 08:05 PM
#74
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Thread Starter
New injectors installed and that cured her she does have a rough idle but she stays on now I'm guessing I just need to play with the TB thanks to everyone with all your inputs now last thing I'm going to ask is wat Afr should be good for her I'm expecting a AEM wideband soon to get this done
01-20-15, 11:07 PM
#75
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Thread Starter
Minor update on my revived fc
I kept her idling for 20 min total just to warm up
I'm at 45 psi oil pressure
13 volts
And a jumpy 36 psi fuel pressure
Currently she is maintaining a unsteady idle at 1300rpm
After I adjust my TB I hope to get a better idle we shall see how it goes
I kept her idling for 20 min total just to warm up
I'm at 45 psi oil pressure
13 volts
And a jumpy 36 psi fuel pressure
Currently she is maintaining a unsteady idle at 1300rpm
After I adjust my TB I hope to get a better idle we shall see how it goes