satch

iTrader: (1)

From the video it appears you are having issues w/the fuel switch internal to the AFM. The switch provides a ground to the circuit opening relay to power the fuel pump after the car initially starts. Find the relay which is Yellow w/a Black plug to the right of the steering wheel column. Plug has two rows w/three wires on the top row and two wires on the bottom row. The bottom wires are a Black wire and a Brown wire. Jumper these two wires and try to start the car. The Blue wire in the plug powers the fuel pump. W/key to start it should have voltage and immediately after the car starts it should continue to have power. If it does not then this is your likely problem.

87nitefc

Thanks so much gonna try this today after work
so your saying if I don't get voltage from the blue wire my problem is the relay but I have to bridge the black and brown wire together if it starts do I leave those wires bridged or do I disconnect them afterwards???

87nitefc

OK so looking at the FSM I found the relay its F-08 circuit opening relay I do remember lookin at this relay before actually IMA check it right now but what should I ask for if I need to replace it the blue wire is that the blue with red wire

satch

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is F-08 (the connection that is). The jumper should be in place before starting the car. The Blue wire needs to have voltage w/key to start and w/the car running. If it starts and runs w/the jumper in place then the AFM is probably the cause. The Brown wire should have 12 volts w/key to on and engine off w/no jumper in place.

W/key to on and the flapper door of the AFM opened the 12 volts at the Brown wire should drop close to zero volts.

87nitefc

OK so this is the plug did u mean I should jump the connection like this or with the relay because without it it seems like there is no fuel being delivered I'm going to try with the relay installed

87nitefc

So in order to jump the wires I have to t-tap into the wires so I'm jus going to order it I found a relay at O'Reilly its made by grote #44430 it seems to have the same pin layout would this work for it

87nitefc

So I found the correct relays here are the part # these are the only 2 stores that claim to have them gonna call to find where tomorrow net price says $90 so let's see what happens

OEM- 056700-7441

O'Reilly- 25-0139

Autozone- 20190

87nitefc

Oops Never saw this post OK so jump the black & brown wire and give the blue wire 12v from a direct connection from the battery or from somewhere else

satch

iTrader: (1)

You're overthinking this. The plug has two wires on the bottom row. W/the relay plugged in you jumper the two bottom wires (the jumpering occurs from the back of the plug because the front of the plug is connected to the relay. Also, if you had the plug disconnected then the relay possibly could not work thus it could not possibly power the Blue wire now could it). The Blue wire should have voltage w/key to start and also w/key to on when the engine is running.

The Brown wire comes from the AFM. W/key to on it has 12 volts (the voltage comes from the relay so if the plug is not connected to said relay then the Brown wire could not possibly have the 12 volts w/key to on and engine not running). W/the car running it has close to 0 volts. If the fuel switch inside the AFM is not working properly then there won't be 0 volts w/the car running and the car dies out. If that were the case then the AFM is the problem and not the relay that you are hell bent on replacing.

87nitefc

Ok so ur saying to jump those wires with the relay installed and start the car nothing else correct

RTRx7

iTrader: (2)

Right.

All you are doing is telling the fuel pump to stay on. IF the jumper fixes the problem, you need a new AFM.

87nitefc

OK so she started but only wen I rev the engine but she still dieing after I did a Lil fire show to warm her up OOPS I guess but she still died she did keep idle for a min then died now she don't start I'm guessing I flooded her again gonna remove plugs tomorrow after she cools down and try again gonna post a video soon

87nitefc

This is how it is

87 fc3s starts but not idle 2:

87nitefc

So I guess I jus had the plugs wet and didn't make spark I pulled them and cleaned them I put them back and like nothing she started again but still dies if I rev it she stays on for a quick min being that the jump wire helped could it be it is only staying on because of the fuel that's left in the chambers after I rev it if I don't it doesn't idle at all and if I do she idles for I'm guessing it burns the left over fuel

satch

iTrader: (1)

With a car which has not run in years it might make sense to keep the car running as long as possible even if you have to play w/the throttle as you have to iron out the kinks and so on. Also, you still should clean the injectors for it just makes sense.

87nitefc

OK so this is what happens she starts and revs but then after a few min it dies and semi flood because she won't start unless I pull and dry the spark plugs please anything is appreciated and as the video helps more then I can describe he is more

Fc3s start no Idle 3:

sir revalot

Listed in order of difficulty.

1; Is there fuel running from the fuel return on the engine? Fuel pressure reg could be jammed shut.. (only seen it once in over 20 years of mechanicing but you never know).

2; Have you checked and set the tps (throttle position sensor)?

3; Leaky injector(s)... Makes sense after the car sitting for so long.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can check the water thermosensor (pin 2I, Green/Yellow wire, of the ECU should read 2 to 3 volts cold engine and key to on, and drop to .5 volts when fully warmed). Make sure you have good spark on both coils. Check the AFM according to FSM. And as previously stated, check the TPS. Hard to set if you cannot get the car fully warmed, but after a twenty minute drive the Green/Red wire should read 1 volt w/key to on. Yon can't idle the car for a few minutes and expect the engine to be fully warmed as it will not. You could press upwards fully on the rear throttle linkage and it will represent a fully warmed engine and at the same time set the G/R wire that way. And leaky injectors could also be the problem as already noted. And have you replaced the air filter.

87nitefc

I'm going to look into all that today hopefully, as for air filter I'm actually running a K&N filter the one that connects directly to the AFM

satch

iTrader: (1)

Correction: I meant to say press "fully downwards" on the rear throttle linkage to simulate a fully warmed engine.

87nitefc

Haven't gotten around to anything lately but being that it all seems to be around fuel I'm going to be replacing my fuel filter jus cuz its affordable lol and some lines if I see them in bad conditions

I may swap my pump also depending on conditions

OK I'm kinda lost with the tps correct me please... So what I gotta do is get the car fully warmed up with a multimeter test the volts on the each wire then with the screw mess with it until I get to the correct voltage ????

For the AFM how should I go about to test this or where on FSM

I did check the injectors and I found that I didn't have o-rings instead it had a small layer of rubber tubing on the lower part of the injectors what size of o-rings could I use or from what car fits. I'm asking because I can't find anyone who is local

satch

iTrader: (1)

The G/R wire should read 1 volt w/key to on and engine completely warmed up.

Use the advanced search feature to find posts related to the injector o rings. You might have a vacuum leak caused by your current situation which could definitely cause your current issues.

The Emission and control section of the FSM details how to check the ohm readings of the AFM. You should fix the injector issue and make sure the TPS is set and if that doesn't help then check the AFM.

87nitefc

OK so now she doesn't want to turn on I'm lost she cranks and stutters for 5sec nothing more and dies I tested the g/r wire battery read 13 volts on off the tps read .13/14
On .68
And when turning the switch
Ign .74
It was never 1.volts

Yet I can't seem to start her to find out if that gives me 1 volt

87nitefc

I'm currently working on having the fuel pump refurbished or replace my top screws are so rusted its making it hard remove gonna get me torch jk jk jk hahaha hopefully my problem is there and fixes my starting/idle situation
Seems like its a fuel problem but I'm also going to replace my spark plugs

What is the best way to test my ignition coil/spark plugs

87nitefc

So I'm going to test everything that could cause a no idle starting with fuel system I'm most likely going to replace my fuel pump any good options please let me know

Next is my spark plugs after TB/TPS and I'm leaving these last since there going to be the biggest price difference --- afm/injectors but maybe where my problem is at

Since my dash oil pressure gauge is not working I'm going with a mechanical gauge replacing the electrical unit that's under the oil filter
YAY or NAY????

Talking about gauges where is best to install a water temp gauge unit I've heard of the lower water outlet is best ???? Any opinions