to anyone out there i need help i had a injector leaking externaly i replaced both inj with beckarnly inj. NOW my car will start just fine,but it wont stay running for more than ten sec. if i advance the tuning it runs but real arratic not drivable. I need help an in any way. I know its not any vacum leak,new p/d, newlines,new injectors same ohm,108fuel nowater,sparkplugs fine. what could this be club. Thanks for any help. tim

 

108 fuel?!?!11

 

108 octane with *** nitrometh additive t/3 turbo garret turbonettic blowoffvavle fuel cutt sensor apex e/m 2nd stage puc clutch beckarnly injectors. blew the intake gasket replaced it correctly cant get it to run. jus start then stall.

 

Not to hijack your thread, my 89 GXL has the same problem. I just picked it up a coupla days ago and it hasn't been run in a while. Compression comes out good (approx 95-100 on all 6 faces) and the plugs are good also. Does having all "9" plugs make a difference? I was looking in the manual and it said to have a pair of "9"s and a pair of "7"s. Now, after unflooding it and whatnot, it'll crank for a buncha cranks then run for 2 seconds at a reasonble high idle. Then it cuts off and won't restart. After unflooding and cleaning the plugs, it'll do the same thing. Possible injector problem (clogged maybe)? It did have bad gas in the tank, but I drained most (only about 1 gal left) of it out and added 3 gallons of fresh. Any suggestions?

 

Sounds like you may have un-metered air entering the intake. Check for leaks between the AFM and intake. While you're at it, make sure the AFM is plugged in.

 

dude,first off if it hadnt ran in a while try putting dextron 2 auto tranny fluid in your chambers. take your plugs out an put a little bit in each hole,about a table spoon or two. this will swell your seals. you can ask around but i work off shore an my car sits for a long time, sometimes i have to do this plus even when u rebuild one it says to put some in the chambers. i gueuss ur doing the job of the oil injectors. which i beleive lubes the seals. my problem was a fuel pump/fuelpump relay,replaced both,pump came on to prime then shut off. if u have had it apart check all ur vac lines an make sure ur top intake is sealing i.e new top gasket or some gasket maker. as for me im back on track runin a low boost 4 now thanks to me a some people on the wonderful site. hope this helps u. from tim.

dude i dont know2 if u got it or not but i quoted u its got my car on it

 

Let's stop right there...

First, don't use ATF if you don't have to. If the engine has not ran in a while or is just flooded, then regular old motor oil will do the job just fine. ATF will NOT swell seals since all the seals relating to compression are made of METAL. If the car has been stored for a while, you will want to look at this:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/unstore.htm

Now, to the other stuff...

Uh huh....

I think this is made up.

If you really are running 108 octane with a nitromethane mix, then that's what killed your fuel pump. It's also horribly pointless and probably costing power.

Anything with "T3" in the name is too small for a 13B.

 

fixed it thanks yall.

 

what was it?

 

an i blew my fuel pump by using the fuel pump connector used for primin your system. except i was finding a leak with it. That ended up was a injector leaking externerly like evryone said it could'nt the car ran then i found fuel on the block an this is when this problem was caused. not a pd /o-ring/fuel line. jus the injector if i remember ill send a pic at the pump thow.

 

carbon seals

 

The fuel pump won't "blow" by using the prime/check connector. Operating the pump with that connector is exactly like running the pump normally. It just bypasses the fuel pump switch in the AFM.

Nitromethane is very corrosive to components not designed to handle it. It is what probably damaged your original pump.

I'm not sure what you are referring to when you say "carbon seals". The stock 13B uses cast iron seals like every Mazda rotary for a very long time. If you are insinuating that you are using carbon seals, then that's wrong because they are for NA applications only and don't take well to boost.

Injectors certainly can leak externally if there is some sort of catastrophic failure or the o-ring fails.

 

I've used motor oil/ATF already a coupla times in the 15 or so I've tried starting/unflooding. Got the UIM off now swappin vac lines and hopefully the AFM is good (was reading wierd on DMM). Gotta check a coupla other sensors and make a new gasket. We'll see when i get it all back together... Anyone ever ohm out an AFM? Supposed to smoothly go from high to low as it's opened right?