I'm using a timing light and having some one turn it over and its not lighting up my light

 

not a reliable way to diagnose coil firing issues, some timing lights do not like to work on the FC wires anyways due to their extremely long length and resistored wires. do as satch said to verify spark. if it does spark that way then remove the plugs and inspect them, they may be oil fouled or rusted.

 

Buy a new set of plugs. I remember when i was barely getting my car running, i would burn through plugs every 4 hours or so of running. I cant explain why, but every time, new plugs and it fired right up. Sometimes cleaning them would work, sometimes not.

If you get the BUR9EQP from oreilly, theres a 1 year warranty, no questions asked.

EDIT: it may have something to do with my car only firing on 1 injector. I was chasing this problem for over a year.

 

starting fluid and a brass brush work well for cleaning plugs but if the electrode has any roundness to it just replace them. a sandblaster or plug cleaner also works however the plugs don't necessarily always like it.

 

Took plugs out the were bad real bad can't up load pics but one you can't even see the center of if it, they flooded it out in November I guess before I got it so putting plugs in, in the morning hope that's it. Thanks for all the help guys should have checked plugs first. But I know he had just changed them before the pump went out.

 

And I ended up getting NGK'S and they have a life time warranty also

 

So the car has been sitting Since November should I drain the tank and fresh gas I got a new fuel filter also

 

does the gas smell like gas? if so then it's probably still ok but that is about as long as fuel can sit before it breaks down.

in a sealed system it can last about a year.

 

I'm going to drain it took the pump out and smells like weak varnish

 

yeah, then it probably wasn't sealed very well. better to put in fresh fuel when trying to get a car started that has been sitting a while.

 

After that I would add a little seafoam to the tank along with some techron especially if it's sitting more.

As for the electric side,I may have missed it, but have you checked the main fuel relay?

 

you may also want to be prepared to have to replace the fuel pump, once the gasoline breaks down it will attack the pump with a vengeance.

 

Its a new pump put it in in March. And just got the pump to turn on yesterday. Had to replace the harness

 

Its a good idea to change the fuel, however, its probably not your problem. Your car should have at least fired up with the starter fluid. Change those plugs.

 

Put new plugs in it and still nothing. Sprayed with starter fluid and nothing. Took the wires off the coils hooked a volt meter to it and getting .73 volts when trying to start not sure what it should be Haynes manual is not the good for starting problems

 

And there is no difference if I have the plug wires on or off the plugs it sounds the same sad cold and lonely lol

 

What dose the theft control control unit do? Could that be stopping it from starting? If all the apex seals are bad could that stop it from starting told the plugs out put finger over hole and felt compression but can't find my gauge and fingers are free lol. Now I had an old 78 forms step side that would not start end up that I had bad voltage regulator replaced it ran fine. Now knowing that its in the alternator now could you get the same result if it was bad?

 

Compression checkers are 20 bucks at oreilly.

if you have spark, fuel, and air, check compression.

Also, pull the plugs again to see what they look like. See if theyre wet or dry.

 

The battery is used to start the car and not the alternator. You could try jump starting the car if your starting circuit is weak. The factory alarm just prevents the starter from engaging. You could also check the voltage on the Black/White wire in a Green check connector near the lead coil which has 3 or 4 wires to it (other wires in this plug are Yellow based). It should have 12 volts w/key to on and at least 7 to 8 volts w/key to start.

 

12v and when trying to start 7 v then jumps in between
4v to 7 v

 

That's pretty much how it should behave but the Black/Yellow wires at the coils should also behave in the same manner. You might want to recheck your earlier findings.

 

I bought a compression tester and will try to test tomorrow. Side note the car has a race beat header and a home made cold airs in take. "I'm looking for an original air box" but found lots of open vac. Lines and the air pump line just go off to no were. Could any of that be an issue of not starting or just a performance issue after I get it running. Going to do the air pump removal mod this coming weekend since its doing nothing anyways. One again thanks for everything guys you all have been lots of help

 

any open lines to the intake could potentially cause a no start or start and stall condition.

 

Ok so if the crank angle sensor is good and the coils are good and the plugs are good could the esm/cpu be failing is there any way to test that at home

 

Did you ever test for spark as suggested? And in the FSM, in the fuel and emission section, is the pin out to the ECU which states how each ECU pin is supposed to read.