Ever

I think something happend to my starter replay because my car wont start or even turn over and its not my battary cus my dome light and head lights and panel lights work. But my radio, clock, and guages dont work. So i think my problem is with the starter relay. The problem is i have no idea where it is can someone ecplain in great detail or might have a picture where one is shown. thanks

I have a 1986 FC

PS i changed the main fuses and checked all my interior fuses all working perfectly.

thanks in advance

Cris

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

Take off your steering column cover. Drivers side you'll see the round ignition switch cluster. Check if it came loose (one screw holds it in). If thats not it, remove the one screw and pull it out. Check that the inside center plastic slot isn't cracked.

I'm guessing somehow the switch cluster has excess play such that the tab that turns it when you turn the key is moving around in a sloppy connection. If something is broken, then just get another one from a wrecking yard. About 5 plugs and it comes off the main harness.

However, considering your radio, clock and guages don't light up, then you probably need to replace the 100 Amp main fuse (next to your battery). I had one that didn't have the appearance of being blown. But had those symptoms you described, replaced it anyway, and everything worked great thereafter.

HAILERS

The starter relay is in the engine bay, near the clutch reservior but closer to the trail coils. A six pin plug. The black with green stripe wire should be hot if the key is turned to start and the clutch pedal is depressed. The clutch pedal should have a interlock switch on it that has to be made by depressing the pedal. If you do have 12v at the BG wire, then its possible the theft deterrent unit is disabling the start relay. Tell me you don't have theft deterrent, please. If the BG has no power, with the ignition sw to ing, then crawl under the dash and look at the interlock sw attached to the clutch pedal. Should be a three hole plug with only two wires. A black with red stripe, and the black with green stripe. The black with red stripe should have 12v with the key to ign. If not HOZZMAN's ignition sw is bad OR the 80amp fuse is popped in the engine bay. Its the one that can't be pulled out. Has a screw or nut retaining it. Personally I think you have a power problem. The meter illumination lites are a seperate circuit from the starter circuit and the circuit for the dome lites or the head lites. See the 88 manual schematics at http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/Technical_I...ice_manual.htm very similar.

Ever

Well I replaced the main 80amp fuse in the egine bay that was my first though. But then since that was not it i was thinking the starter relay. So i donno now, I am going to try your idea about the interlock thing on the clutch, but i donno why my radio clock and dask woouldnt work with it out either. I also dont have theif deterant. Well i am off to try and see if it helps thx

Ever

ok nope nothing helped. Is there like a starter circut breaker or something i am getting very frustrated. i dont know what the hell to do i am totally lost. I am gettin no power to the inside of my car nothing no radio, clock, guages. Yet my lights work and my interior panel lights up.
I check all my fuses nothing worng with them.

Also my battary is fully charged

Can someone suggest anything else. please

HAILERS

Schematic maybe:EDIT: TRY AGAIN Sorry, was trying to send a schematic. Did not turn out.

HAILERS

When in doubt, do what HOZZMAN suggestsed. The path is, 80 amp fuse to the key switch, to the interlock sw on the clutch, to the relay, to the starter. HOZZMAN had it nailed from the start, probably.

HAILERS

Hozzeman's right. Its gotta be the key sw. I misunderstood about the gauges. I thought you were talking about the illumination lites for the gauges not working. You meant that the gauge needles don't work. Right? I'll do penance this mid day and rip my ignition cover off and snoop around. Hey, if you don't have a meter go to Radio Shack and get a digital meter for less than twenty bucks. You can't work on this car without one. The car was sold with a tool kit that included a digital meter, I think, maybe, perhaps. Should've had one anyway. EDIT: Ok, I just now pulled the steering wheel and the plastic cover. Also removed the short piece of a/c duct that hides the connectors for the sw. These connectors are 9 inches away from the key sw, towards the front of the steering wheel. I also offed the black piece of tie wrap that holds the harness to the steering wheel. There is one connector that has a single black with red stripe wire. Disconnect. There is a two wire plug next to it that has a pure black wire and the other is black with a white stripe. Jumper the single black and red wire to the pure black wire. The starter WILL turn over if you press the clutch in. If the starter turns over by jumpering those two wires with the clutch pushed in, your problem is in the starter sw. Write back with what happened, please. P.S. Its possible that the starter will turn over with the wires jumpered and the clutch not

Gearhead

iTrader: (1)

There are also a cluster of switches near the fuse box I think. One of them (single wire in a single plug... 12awg or so) is a junction from the key switch harness to the fuse box harness. I have fixed a couple cars that had a bad connection here. The symptoms are similar to what you are describing.
Don.

HAILERS

THEY did not give me enough room on the last post. On the end I want you to know that the clutch sw may not have to be depressed when jumpering the above wires, if someone has disabled it. If you have been starting your car without depressing the clutch sw, then all you have to do is jumper the above wires. It does not take much time to do this. I started investigating where the word EDIT is in my above post and was thru before the beginning of this post. Of course my steering wheel just pops off since its been off so many times. You may experience difficulties with that and if you do, its not really required to remove it. Just makes life a hellofaloteasier. Do write back. The above is conclusive proof whether the sw is the problem. P.S. The wiring diagrams do a little suction in this area. They do not show the change in colors on some wires at the pigtails. Had me fumbling around at the sw contacts wondering where the pure black wire was. Also I noted that on my car the black wire with red stripe is not solid at the sw . It has some movement. Problems a coming I reckon. No prob yet though. OH FUDGE, in the above post where I said that if the starter spins that means the problem is in the starter sw, I meant to say the KEY SWITCH. Could be GEARHEAD is right too. No 12v on the black wire would lead you in that direction. Only takes about 30 min to do the above. I don't get paid by the hour.

HAILERS

GEARHEAD... I looked at the schematic and that one wire connector is near the fuse box in the engine bay. That brought memories back. I was caught away from home and the car would not start. No tools. No meter. Fiddle flocked around and by pure accident found that connector. It was semi-melted. Patched it back together and got home. Soldered same together and it has worked since. Maybe two year plus ago. EVER are you reading this. Sort of a heads up. Single black wire connector, in the engine bay, three to four inches from where the wires come out of the fuse box(black rectangular box). Have fun.

Ever

yep yep that was it,

i followed the black wire until there was a connection, at the connection the plastic casing around the wire was all melted "sufficating" the connectiong to all the electrical stuff on my inside.

I broke off the plastic, used emory paper to get all the crap off, then connected it and magically it worked lol. Also them damn wiring schematics do help there just hell to look at for more than 3 mins.