The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Looking for peoples opinions on these that have used them or are using them on your exhaust.
Thanks,
Chris




This "tube connector stack-breaker" makes it very easy to separate two 3" pipes. Used on agricultural equipment when you need to remove a stack to get a piece of equipment inside a shed, and in racing when you need a quick take-down method. Carbon steel for easy welding to standard exhaust pipe. This assembly consists of two special mating flanges and a quick-disconnect V-band clamp.

680RWHP12A

how much is it? if its the thin wall tubing it usally cracks where the lip is.. ill post pics of the thick v band assy's so you cab see what im talkin about chris

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I damn well forgot you carried these. Ill call you later and chat bro,
Thanks,
Chris

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Looks flimsy to me..... I like these - same concept, just beefier.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me..._Code=ATP-FLS2

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Oh yeah, i forgot that place is just one city over!
Thanks,
Chris

RETed

Looks like a v-band connection to me...


-Ted

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, wouldnt you be better off just welding v-band flanges on already existing pipe? I have seen these set ups on tractors and the like, but take into consideration the EGTs of a diesel motor compared to a rotary.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I was just using these as a example. Yes, v-band clamps is the term I was looking for.

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

What gauge stainless is the tubing and how much can you get them for? I've seen 2.5" stainless v-band assemblies for around $25 online.

RETed

Yeah, how much are those things?
Summit Racing sells better looking ones.
Be warned...all of the guys who have them on their cars complain the v-band always leaks.


-Ted

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

That was the advice is was looking for, thank you. Those are not good odds. I will stick with the flanges.
Chris

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I would not recommend the ATP V-bands. I found the fit on standard tubing to be very loose so I had to fill a lot of void in with the welds. Also, they are mild steel. For the cost I would expect stainless.

The Vibrant V-band assemblies seem to be better and have an inner lip which helps prevent leaks:
http://vibrantperformance.com/catalo...8e970022188745

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

I take it you are runing these ones Aaron? Are you very happy with them? I can see the difference in those compared to others. Not Cheap either!
CHris

Rotary?Cool

I'm using 2 3"er's on my setup. They fit nice and the clamps are sturdy enough. I used them at the bottom of my DP and right before my cat back so I'm not really worried about EGT's. I did use different nuts on the bolts.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Aaron, those vibrant ones look nice!!

I didn't have any trouble fitting the ATP ones my piping though, they slipped right over and I just ran a bead around them. To be fair though, the bends I was using in that case were also bought from ATP.

Mine don't leak (yet, crossing fingers lol) either and that down pipe had been on and off a couple times during the end of the season.

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

So are the v-bands worth looking into or are flanges still the best way to go?

dazed01

They are great as long as you take the band off the right way. I've seen guys rip them off with pliers, all you need to do is pry the lip a bit with a screwdriver and they pop right off. They seal awesome if you get good ones.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

I have all v-bands on my exhaust, and it's a GREAT setup. The part pictured here looks a little flimsy to me.

FWIW I make "permatex gaskets" by running a small bead of exhaust sealer on one side of the v-band connection before I bolt them up. Stops any slight leaking and doesn't make a mess.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I'm using the ATP v-bands currently. Unfortunately I didn't find the nice Vibrant v-bands until after I completed my exhaust setup.

There's nothing really wrong with the standard v-band setup that ATP sells, but they could be better. When welding, pay close attention to heat and check for warping. Clamp the assembly tightly closed during welding. If they are a little warped, you can flatten them with some sandpaper on a small plate of glass.


Funny, I was not happy with the bends from ATP either.

V-bands are the way to go in my opinion. Flanges need replacement gaskets and a bunch of bolts. I can drop my entire V-band exhaust system in 5 minutes.

RETed

Good point.
V-bands were designed for quick removal for those who do this often.
I've seen instances where they seize and basically need to be cut off.
They were not meant to sit under your car for long periods of time (i.e. years) without ocassional removal.
Maybe you can slather some high temp grease or anti-seize for this?

I'd prefer some 1/2" thick flanges for street use myself.


-Ted

BASTARD

iTrader: (4)

V-Bands tend to seal better when there is a flex pipe in the D/P