SS auto chrome/ex power
07-28-05, 12:32 AM
#1
Rotor Head
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SS auto chrome/ex power
Since the above mentioned manifolds have been known to crack and warp
why not reinforce before putting them in? Anyone ever done this? How did it work?
Thicker flanges and bigger beads!
Evan
why not reinforce before putting them in? Anyone ever done this? How did it work?
Thicker flanges and bigger beads!
Evan
07-28-05, 02:33 AM
#3
MP T-70 = Fun
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there are a few threads about this already.
only a few people hae had problems..... there are a good number of people running the manifolds without problem.
Its 100 bucks... if it lasts for 6 months and breaks that sucks... you got a bad one. buy another... you could buy 3 or 4 and still be cheaper. i got the fd one for my fc and will be posting he progress of my setup.
do it if you want... but please search on this topic... its been covered.
only a few people hae had problems..... there are a good number of people running the manifolds without problem.
Its 100 bucks... if it lasts for 6 months and breaks that sucks... you got a bad one. buy another... you could buy 3 or 4 and still be cheaper. i got the fd one for my fc and will be posting he progress of my setup.
do it if you want... but please search on this topic... its been covered.
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07-28-05, 03:07 AM
#8
savanna
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can you post some photos of these damaged manifolds im not doubting you it just seems so many people claim they fail all the time but no one has any photos to show i think one or two people have had a bad experience and everyone thinks they must be crap,im not trying to say they are excellent i just think they are a cost effective alternative that work.i bet all big name brands when first starting out had failures but you dont hear everyone bitching about those.look at mazdas early rotary engines they failed constantly and at ridiculously low ks i guess that must mean we all have to sell them cause they are ****. all im trying to say is alot of people make claims without any real world experience.and if you can show photos ill be the first to admit that i was wrong but everyone here pays no attention to those that have used them and work fine
07-28-05, 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by savana
can you post some photos of these damaged manifolds im not doubting you it just seems so many people claim they fail all the time but no one has any photos to show i think one or two people have had a bad experience and everyone thinks they must be crap,im not trying to say they are excellent i just think they are a cost effective alternative that work.i bet all big name brands when first starting out had failures but you dont hear everyone bitching about those.look at mazdas early rotary engines they failed constantly and at ridiculously low ks i guess that must mean we all have to sell them cause they are ****. all im trying to say is alot of people make claims without any real world experience.and if you can show photos ill be the first to admit that i was wrong but everyone here pays no attention to those that have used them and work fine
07-28-05, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by sleeperfc
manifolds... show me a pic of a broken ssauto manifold on a rx7
07-28-05, 05:50 AM
#13
Lives on the Forum
Originally Posted by DC350
Since the above mentioned manifolds have been known to crack and warp
why not reinforce before putting them in? Anyone ever done this? How did it work?
Thicker flanges and bigger beads!
why not reinforce before putting them in? Anyone ever done this? How did it work?
Thicker flanges and bigger beads!
They can give you the answer.
-Ted
08-02-05, 12:59 AM
#16
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The manifold I have, has no cracks, warps, or any failure. Im tired of seeing people post **** about them , yet they are just spreading rumors... If you search on this forum, there are many members running these manifolds, and none have any problems with them... This is excluding the fd manifold, which I have seen the build quality and it completely sucks, compared to the fc one.
08-02-05, 04:17 AM
#18
Navy MarCom
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well I'm certified and here's the problem.. the 'stainless' isn't it's an alloy of stainless, one with a very high carbon content ( eg: poor foundry control or just plain old lack of QC in china ) High carbon means that it is a very very brittile part. so ANY loads be it compressive/shear/or tension will fatigue these parts to the point were they crack.. add to that the fact that they are welded wrong over 90% of the joints. and that allot of them seem to have mild steel flanges welded to stainless with no system of easing or relief for expansion..
You'll begin to understand why they break so often.. if you do plan to use these parts or modify them in ANY way then get them properly heat cycled after ANY work or even befor eyou install it. of course the cost of having the part proplerly heat cycled is worth as much as getting a header custom made with certified stainless or mild steel..
I've made it a point not to allow ANY SSAC/megan/OBX fabricated or turbo into my shop now.. it's a risk I'm not willing to have my shop accept now.
You'll begin to understand why they break so often.. if you do plan to use these parts or modify them in ANY way then get them properly heat cycled after ANY work or even befor eyou install it. of course the cost of having the part proplerly heat cycled is worth as much as getting a header custom made with certified stainless or mild steel..
I've made it a point not to allow ANY SSAC/megan/OBX fabricated or turbo into my shop now.. it's a risk I'm not willing to have my shop accept now.
08-02-05, 11:15 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by doridori-rx7
well I'm certified and here's the problem.. the 'stainless' isn't it's an alloy of stainless, one with a very high carbon content ( eg: poor foundry control or just plain old lack of QC in china ) High carbon means that it is a very very brittile part. so ANY loads be it compressive/shear/or tension will fatigue these parts to the point were they crack.. add to that the fact that they are welded wrong over 90% of the joints. and that allot of them seem to have mild steel flanges welded to stainless with no system of easing or relief for expansion..
You'll begin to understand why they break so often.. if you do plan to use these parts or modify them in ANY way then get them properly heat cycled after ANY work or even befor eyou install it. of course the cost of having the part proplerly heat cycled is worth as much as getting a header custom made with certified stainless or mild steel..
I've made it a point not to allow ANY SSAC/megan/OBX fabricated or turbo into my shop now.. it's a risk I'm not willing to have my shop accept now.
You'll begin to understand why they break so often.. if you do plan to use these parts or modify them in ANY way then get them properly heat cycled after ANY work or even befor eyou install it. of course the cost of having the part proplerly heat cycled is worth as much as getting a header custom made with certified stainless or mild steel..
I've made it a point not to allow ANY SSAC/megan/OBX fabricated or turbo into my shop now.. it's a risk I'm not willing to have my shop accept now.
The flanges are not mild steel. And yes, maybe the material used isnt a high quality metal, but it hasnt cracked in over 1 almost 2 years, and it has endured alot of stress. Plus I paid 100 for it.
08-02-05, 12:42 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by RETed
Why don't you talk to a certified welder?
They can give you the answer.
-Ted
They can give you the answer.
-Ted
I work with 3 of them so i'll ask them when i get back to work.
08-02-05, 01:45 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by MARTIN
What risk guy?? As long as you explain to them what could be the consequences of them using that part, you are not liable.
The flanges are not mild steel. And yes, maybe the material used isnt a high quality metal, but it hasnt cracked in over 1 almost 2 years, and it has endured alot of stress. Plus I paid 100 for it.
The flanges are not mild steel. And yes, maybe the material used isnt a high quality metal, but it hasnt cracked in over 1 almost 2 years, and it has endured alot of stress. Plus I paid 100 for it.
08-02-05, 02:13 PM
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exactly.. your work is only going to be good as the materials you start with.. regardless of the fact that you may or may not have done anything to modify it or just bolted the part on.. if it breaks and it was installed by you.. they your rep takes the hit.. most customers don't care about WHO's falut it is.. ( becuse it won't ever be thier own ), they throw out balme like it rice at a wedding.
So the only way to combat that is to make sure that anything and everything that comes into the shop is either certified materials or built by your own two hands.
So the only way to combat that is to make sure that anything and everything that comes into the shop is either certified materials or built by your own two hands.
08-02-05, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kontakt
If all of your customers buy poor products, and a lot of them break, whether you have to pay for it or not, the hit to your rep (deserving or not) will have an effect.
Anyways, we can sit here and through **** back and forth. But the truth is that if people want to buy those products, then its up to them. Ultimately it's their car, and money. I have switched a few of my parts to SSautochrome and personally, I actually preferr it. Not because of how they work, but because of the price. I had one of our welders fab me up a manifold. In the end he charged me 675 for a tubular divided manifold. I ended up selling that manifold and turbo and was able to buy an ss manifold and wastegate for 500 less than what the tubular manifold originaly cost me. And if it cracks or anything(which hasnt cracked in almost 2 years) I can just send it back and get a new one..