Spun bearing on engine Q
Wtf
Howstuffworks.com/how a rotary engine works.
But since I come from a platform where engine rebuilds are tune ups, it sounds like rodnock/hammer hitting your motor/ clack clack clack clack sound that gets louder and faster as you rev higher. Power loss obviously, make sure its coming from the bottom of your motor.
Howstuffworks.com/how a rotary engine works.
But since I come from a platform where engine rebuilds are tune ups, it sounds like rodnock/hammer hitting your motor/ clack clack clack clack sound that gets louder and faster as you rev higher. Power loss obviously, make sure its coming from the bottom of your motor.
Uh...I don't know if you're talking about your RX7 or not, I assumed you werent. Rotary engines don't have rod bearings, thats why I told you to learn how it works. Here:
http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.c...animation.html
110psi? Holy ****. Well, when a bearing does spin you'll notice lower oil pressure, higher is usually good.
http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.c...animation.html
110psi? Holy ****. Well, when a bearing does spin you'll notice lower oil pressure, higher is usually good.
Originally Posted by KhanArtisT
Uh...I don't know if you're talking about your RX7 or not, I assumed you werent. Rotary engines don't have rod bearings, thats why I told you to learn how it works. Here:
http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.c...animation.html
110psi? Holy ****. Well, when a bearing does spin you'll notice lower oil pressure, higher is usually good.
http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.c...animation.html
110psi? Holy ****. Well, when a bearing does spin you'll notice lower oil pressure, higher is usually good.
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Some of it will stick to a magnet.
You can actually hear spun bearings. It's a slight whirring sound. You can also feel slight pulses/vibrations through the clutch pedal and shifter.
Do an oil change and check for copper shavings in the old oil.
You can actually hear spun bearings. It's a slight whirring sound. You can also feel slight pulses/vibrations through the clutch pedal and shifter.
Do an oil change and check for copper shavings in the old oil.
I have changed the oil and no sings of copper or any other metals. I am going to drop the oil pan to check the pressure regulators and or may bee changing them out to a new one. All my pressure measurements were taken with a mechanical gage. Thanks for the info everyone.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Symptoms:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/damage.htm
The engine will make strange knocking or scraping noises, idle speed will be lower, metal shavings in the oil, less power and the engine can eventually seize up.
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/damage.htm

The engine will make strange knocking or scraping noises, idle speed will be lower, metal shavings in the oil, less power and the engine can eventually seize up.
Well I do not have these symptoms. So I think Ill be all right. The only thing is this oil pressure in which is not really too bad to have 110psi but it concerns me because is a turbo engine and I don’t really want to damage any seals on the turbo. May bee is because is a JDM engine....Does anyone know if the JDM engines came with different oil pressure regulators?
Several people have mentioned it already, but you seem to not listen to them.
I dunno who told you high oil pressure = spun bearing, but they are wrong.
The stock oil pressure sender is notorious for going bad.
Why don't you check this out first?
-Ted
I dunno who told you high oil pressure = spun bearing, but they are wrong.
The stock oil pressure sender is notorious for going bad.
Why don't you check this out first?
-Ted
Originally Posted by RETed
Several people have mentioned it already, but you seem to not listen to them.
I dunno who told you high oil pressure = spun bearing, but they are wrong.
The stock oil pressure sender is notorious for going bad.
Why don't you check this out first?
-Ted
I dunno who told you high oil pressure = spun bearing, but they are wrong.
The stock oil pressure sender is notorious for going bad.
Why don't you check this out first?
-Ted
I am listening and I already mention that I used a mechanical gage to get my readings. I know that the pressure sender is no good. I’m only trying to gather some info so I can either troubleshoot more or just let it be.
Juan
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Someone may have swapped the pressure regulator. Unless you are having other problems, just leave it alone. The stock turbo has a restrictor which will deal with the increased pressure.
Sorry about that - I missed that part of the thread. 
Are you measuring oil pressure with everything fully hot?
If you're just measuring cold temps, very thick oil can read very high, especially if it's cold outside.
Do you know what weight oil you are using?
No, the stock FC oil pressure regulator, even J-Spec, should all be the same.
-Ted

Are you measuring oil pressure with everything fully hot?
If you're just measuring cold temps, very thick oil can read very high, especially if it's cold outside.
Do you know what weight oil you are using?
No, the stock FC oil pressure regulator, even J-Spec, should all be the same.
-Ted
Originally Posted by RETed
Sorry about that - I missed that part of the thread. 
Are you measuring oil pressure with everything fully hot?
If you're just measuring cold temps, very thick oil can read very high, especially if it's cold outside.
Do you know what weight oil you are using?
No, the stock FC oil pressure regulator, even J-Spec, should all be the same.
-Ted

Are you measuring oil pressure with everything fully hot?
If you're just measuring cold temps, very thick oil can read very high, especially if it's cold outside.
Do you know what weight oil you are using?
No, the stock FC oil pressure regulator, even J-Spec, should all be the same.
-Ted
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