My car has not started recenly.. and i dont think its this.. but whats going on here with the NGK plugs?

Leading hole 1 (front of car) - BUR9EQP
Leading hole 2 (rear of car) - BUR7EQP

Trailing hole 1 (front of car) - BR7EQ
Trailing hole 2 (Rear of car) - BR7EQ
two two that were in the leading holes have the same ends, and the two in the trailing holes have the same ends but different ones.

Also.. the two in the leading holes.. one of the has a T (for trailing) and one has a L.. (for leading).. shouldnt they both be L plugs??

will the car start like this??

thanks

 

Hmm, the BR7EQ doesn't seem to even exist anymore. Are you sure it is not a BUR7EG?

and it sounds like you need to get new plugs.

using conventional plugs you would use the BUR7EQP or BUR7EQ in the leading (lower) postion and BUR9EQP or BUR9EQ in the trailing (Top) positions.

 

what about running 9's all around what does that do

 

Could lead to cold start fouling and increased flooding, generally also has slightly longer plug life.

Just depends on how modified the engine is.

 

ah ok.. my engine is a stock NA. after a search i found the BR7EQ's are common in the 1st and 2nd gen series.

so your suggesting buying BUR7EQP or BUR7EQ in the leading (lower)
BUR9EQP or BUR9EQ in the trailing (Top)

was the setup i had before bad?

 

ah ok.. yeah i have a stock NA series 4. so your suggesting running...

BUR7EQP or BUR7EQ in the leading (lower)
BUR9EQP or BUR9EQ in the trailing (Top)

so the 9EQ's should go in the top holes? i only had one.. and it was in one of the bottom holes??

could you run a car with all 7's?

 

Yes. BTW, the P designation just means a platinum plug.

Yes, you could run all 7s, however you would be more prone to detonation with that set up, particularly when warm.

The third option is what I use on all the rotary motors I have been playing with. The NGK RE7C-L regapped to .032 gap for the leadings as well. They are the Iridium leading plug for the FE (RX-8). If you have a CDI system you can run them up to about .038 gap. But bare in mind that the RE7C-L typically costs about $20 USD each.

 

The car should still run no matter what configuration of spark plugs are in it. All 7s, all 9s or any mix of the two. It should still run.

BUR7EQP or BUR7EQ in the leading (lower)
BUR9EQP or BUR9EQ in the trailing (Top)

This is the correct setup though.

 

ah ok thanks.. im going to buy some new plugs.. they may be one of the many reasons it wont start..

$20 US each.. thats not much! i live in Australia i am expecting to pay more than that for standard ones. If each genuine mazda spark plug lead is AU$50.. imagine what ill pay for the plugs!

 

are the turbo ones the same as the NA ones?

 

So Icemark, you use the same iridiums for both lead and trailing? I've been interested, just don't know which ones. So, where do you get yours?

 

Yes

 

There are a couple differnt types out there that fit the FC 13B.

I have been using the NGK ones in the leading locations, but I have used the Denso's in the past. For the trailings I use the BUR9EQP in most engines. Because I run a CDI on the leadings, with the maximum gap for power the plug life is very short. Copper plugs were burning out every 5K miles, and platimums were not lasting much longer, so the Iridiums seem to be the best bet for me and my driving style.

I can order both the NGK and Denso locally, and was stocking all the NGK plugs for the rotary and a few Toyota products for a while but was not selling enough to meet my dealer minimum stats.

Sparkplugs.com seems to be the best online price, but if you have a Napa in your area, they can get the NGKs for you as well.

 

Update from two years ago: Plugs had nothing to do with car not starting. Had a blown coolant seal which made it virtually impossible to start without flooding. New engine, no problems!