SPAL-PWM-V3 & Black Magic 150 Install
07-12-09, 12:43 AM
#1
SPAL-PWM-V3 & Black Magic 150 Install
Over the past few weeks I've been finalizing the install of an e-fan that I had laying around. It had been used on my old TII, but had sat on a shelf for the last few years. It has some custom machined/welded brackets thanks to my father's metal fab skills 
, so there are no bullshit zip-tie brackets keeping it in place. They're machined out of 1/4" aluminum plate, so they don't mess around.
The Flex-a-lite Black Magic 150 is a 2800 CFM fan that is rated at 14.9 amps. However, through my own testing with an ammeter, I have found it only pulls 10 amps at full speed. I also ripped out the cheap Korean-made thermostatic switch it came with, and initially used a simple thermoswitch & relay to trigger the fan on at ~200*F. This worked OK, but I wasn't happy with the higher-than-stock coolant temperatures I was seeing due to the late switch point. Additionally, when switching on, the current inrush of the fan was measured at >30 amps for a fraction of second before dropping to 10 amps (my gauge only reads up to 30 amps, but it pegged the needle). As I logged with my Rtek 2.1, this large initial current draw caused a 0.9V drop in voltage while the engine was free-reving at ~3000 RPM. This stabilized a fraction of a second afterwards to 0.2V below what it was prior to the fan switching on. The log I have here shows the effect of the fan's operation (at 100% speed) on voltage. Note that the idle speed was only at ~650 RPM, which proved to have a very nasty effect on the alternator's output (~12.5V). But when idling at 800+ RPM, voltage stayed at 13-13.6V, which is still barely charging the battery at all. My poor 70 amp S4 alternator does not handle the additional draw well, which is why I have a 100 amp FD alternator going in soon.
Coolant temp refuses to graph, and it's in Celsius. 95*C = 203*F & 81*C = 179*F. The switch's off point is supposed to be 185*F, but ends up being ~180*F. Note the 2 minute gap between points E & F.
So in light of those two drawbacks (higher temps & >30 amp inrush), and the fact that the fan would only run at 1 speed, I opted to buy a SPAL PWM Version 3 fan controller. This new version features soft starting of the fan, which starts it up at about 5% of max speed and slowly brings it up over the course of maybe 5-10 seconds. The user can program in a low temperature switch point, where the fan will come on at 50% speed, and a high temperature switch point, where the fan runs at 100% speed. When running at low speed, if the coolant temperature continues to rise, the controller will ramp up fan speed continuously as it approaches the high temp set point. Then as the temperature falls back down, the fan reduces speed again.
The manual says you can use your vehicle's existing thermosensor to give the controller the temperature data it needs to do this, but I found it will not work with the FC's sensor. However, when using SPAL's own temperature sensor (SPAL-PWM-TS), it works perfectly. It has 3 temperature presets, but they didn't switch on at the temps they were supposed to, so I set my own. I have the fan come on at 50% speed at 185*F, and it increases speed towards 100% as it approaches 200*F. Best of all, the soft starting of the fan has dropped the current inrush to only 20 amps & it only takes 3 amps for my fan to run at 50% speed. This gives my alternator a break, and does a much a better job of keeping the coolant temperature steady. With a simple on/off switch, my temperatures were fluctuating by as much as 30 degrees.
And now some pictures...
A good view of the fan and the thermoswitch on the thermostat cover. The SPAL thermosensor is now installed in this spot. I just didn't take a new picture. I tapped the cover with a 3/8" pipe thread so they'd fit. The stock S4 TII threads are the right pitch, but the overall size is slightly too small.
Custom bracket cut out of aluminum sheet and bent to hold the controller. I also made a little bracket to move the existing relays over to the left to make room. All wires run under the headlight and up near the leading coil. Switched 12V power comes from the B/W wire on the green diagnostic plug, and constant 12V power comes from the terminal running to the main fuse (bottom of fuse box).
, so there are no bullshit zip-tie brackets keeping it in place. They're machined out of 1/4" aluminum plate, so they don't mess around. The Flex-a-lite Black Magic 150 is a 2800 CFM fan that is rated at 14.9 amps. However, through my own testing with an ammeter, I have found it only pulls 10 amps at full speed. I also ripped out the cheap Korean-made thermostatic switch it came with, and initially used a simple thermoswitch & relay to trigger the fan on at ~200*F. This worked OK, but I wasn't happy with the higher-than-stock coolant temperatures I was seeing due to the late switch point. Additionally, when switching on, the current inrush of the fan was measured at >30 amps for a fraction of second before dropping to 10 amps (my gauge only reads up to 30 amps, but it pegged the needle). As I logged with my Rtek 2.1, this large initial current draw caused a 0.9V drop in voltage while the engine was free-reving at ~3000 RPM. This stabilized a fraction of a second afterwards to 0.2V below what it was prior to the fan switching on. The log I have here shows the effect of the fan's operation (at 100% speed) on voltage. Note that the idle speed was only at ~650 RPM, which proved to have a very nasty effect on the alternator's output (~12.5V). But when idling at 800+ RPM, voltage stayed at 13-13.6V, which is still barely charging the battery at all. My poor 70 amp S4 alternator does not handle the additional draw well, which is why I have a 100 amp FD alternator going in soon.
Coolant temp refuses to graph, and it's in Celsius. 95*C = 203*F & 81*C = 179*F. The switch's off point is supposed to be 185*F, but ends up being ~180*F. Note the 2 minute gap between points E & F.
So in light of those two drawbacks (higher temps & >30 amp inrush), and the fact that the fan would only run at 1 speed, I opted to buy a SPAL PWM Version 3 fan controller. This new version features soft starting of the fan, which starts it up at about 5% of max speed and slowly brings it up over the course of maybe 5-10 seconds. The user can program in a low temperature switch point, where the fan will come on at 50% speed, and a high temperature switch point, where the fan runs at 100% speed. When running at low speed, if the coolant temperature continues to rise, the controller will ramp up fan speed continuously as it approaches the high temp set point. Then as the temperature falls back down, the fan reduces speed again.
The manual says you can use your vehicle's existing thermosensor to give the controller the temperature data it needs to do this, but I found it will not work with the FC's sensor. However, when using SPAL's own temperature sensor (SPAL-PWM-TS), it works perfectly. It has 3 temperature presets, but they didn't switch on at the temps they were supposed to, so I set my own. I have the fan come on at 50% speed at 185*F, and it increases speed towards 100% as it approaches 200*F. Best of all, the soft starting of the fan has dropped the current inrush to only 20 amps & it only takes 3 amps for my fan to run at 50% speed. This gives my alternator a break, and does a much a better job of keeping the coolant temperature steady. With a simple on/off switch, my temperatures were fluctuating by as much as 30 degrees.
And now some pictures...
A good view of the fan and the thermoswitch on the thermostat cover. The SPAL thermosensor is now installed in this spot. I just didn't take a new picture. I tapped the cover with a 3/8" pipe thread so they'd fit. The stock S4 TII threads are the right pitch, but the overall size is slightly too small.
Custom bracket cut out of aluminum sheet and bent to hold the controller. I also made a little bracket to move the existing relays over to the left to make room. All wires run under the headlight and up near the leading coil. Switched 12V power comes from the B/W wire on the green diagnostic plug, and constant 12V power comes from the terminal running to the main fuse (bottom of fuse box).
07-12-09, 07:17 AM
#3
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Wow man looks like you did your homework. I was having problems with the dodgy thermo switch for my e fan when i was installing it and my mech said you know that can be wired to run off your microtech ecu, never had an issue with it since then lol. Nice write up though, good to see well thought out posts like this one
07-12-09, 10:37 AM
#6
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I am curious as to whether it was SPAL that told you the FAN-PWM won't work with the FC temperature sensor, and what their reasoning is. In theory the unit will work with any variable voltage source. For example, you could connect it to the TPS if you want, though I don't know why you would do that...SPAL also told me that the voltage spread of the Denso sensor is perfectly adequate. I have not measured it myself though.
Yeah, using their temperature sensor probably will eliminate 99% of problems with any version of the FAN-PWM. It's just unfortunate that SPAL suggests otherwise.
Yeah, using their temperature sensor probably will eliminate 99% of problems with any version of the FAN-PWM. It's just unfortunate that SPAL suggests otherwise.
07-12-09, 12:27 PM
#7
I am curious as to whether it was SPAL that told you the FAN-PWM won't work with the FC temperature sensor, and what their reasoning is. In theory the unit will work with any variable voltage source. For example, you could connect it to the TPS if you want, though I don't know why you would do that...SPAL also told me that the voltage spread of the Denso sensor is perfectly adequate. I have not measured it myself though.
Yeah, using their temperature sensor probably will eliminate 99% of problems with any version of the FAN-PWM. It's just unfortunate that SPAL suggests otherwise.
Yeah, using their temperature sensor probably will eliminate 99% of problems with any version of the FAN-PWM. It's just unfortunate that SPAL suggests otherwise.
So, because I already knew the unit would work with their own sensor, I stopped wasting my time and installed it. But for whatever reason, their 3 preset temperature ranges were not accurate. I can assume the setup used to determine these temperatures had slightly different voltage values than mine. No big deal though. Once I went through and set the switch points manually, the fan started working exactly as it should.
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07-13-09, 06:21 PM
#9
So I just monitored the temperatures for a short drive. On surface streets, with plenty of stop and go at lights, the coolant temperature stayed at 180-185*F the whole time. This is with speeds around 45 mph and an ambient temperature of 80*F. Also, my presets are at 180/195*F rather than 185/200*F like I stated before. These temps are exactly what I was seeing with the stock clutch fan. 
Just what I was going for.
Just what I was going for.
07-14-09, 03:20 PM
#13
unfortunately the V3 controller is kinda pricey, like $130. i was gonna but one after my old PWM crapped out on me, but i read that you shouldn't run fans that draw more than 30ish amps or it will burn out the controller. i will probably use the black magic 180.
07-15-09, 03:54 AM
#15
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I recently installed the same e-fan, with the SPAL-PWM, but I think mine is the version before yours, on a koyo rad.
I was wondering about the temp settings though, the book said recommended temp settings were 160/200, when doing the setup for it and waiting till for 200*F for the high setting, the rad was steaming a bit, I got concerned and set the high at 180* and let it be.
It seems alright any cruising situation is below 160F and idle at a stand still on a 90 degree day it will hit the higher speed and hover around 180*, But your saying you set your 50% at 180 and 100% at 195*, should I redo my temp settings and let it get hotter than it is??
I was wondering about the temp settings though, the book said recommended temp settings were 160/200, when doing the setup for it and waiting till for 200*F for the high setting, the rad was steaming a bit, I got concerned and set the high at 180* and let it be.
It seems alright any cruising situation is below 160F and idle at a stand still on a 90 degree day it will hit the higher speed and hover around 180*, But your saying you set your 50% at 180 and 100% at 195*, should I redo my temp settings and let it get hotter than it is??
07-15-09, 05:53 AM
#16
SPAL recommends 160/200°...really?
That's absurd, your thermostat isn't even open at 160° so why should the fan begin operation?
In fact, you now have two parts of the cooling system regulation fighting each other...the thermostat is trying to get temps up so it can fully open and the fan is trying to cool things back down- but I don't see how the fan can win since the closed thermostat isn't allowing flow to the rad, so the fan is huffing and puffing to no avail.
Such settings completely negate the advantages of having an efan, namely, only using the fan when absolutely necessary.
Just a few days ago I was redoing some of my fan wiring (having determined that the BAC valve activation was functional) and I needed to confirm that all was good.
With ambient temp of @ 75° and the hood open, I started the car (it was stone cold) and waited to see the fan kick on.
And waited, and waited...
Water temp hit 180° and stayed there.
Just the pump, thermostat and passive radiation off the rad was enough to hold the temp steady, some 14° below the low trigger point of the fan.
With your settings, my fan would have come on- and stayed on- much earlier... but to no purpose as the thermostat would have regulated the flow to hit 180° anyway.
Basically, as long as you have a functioning thermostat installed, 160° is a completely unrealistic goal and you're just wasting electricity and wearing out the fan.
That's absurd, your thermostat isn't even open at 160° so why should the fan begin operation?
In fact, you now have two parts of the cooling system regulation fighting each other...the thermostat is trying to get temps up so it can fully open and the fan is trying to cool things back down- but I don't see how the fan can win since the closed thermostat isn't allowing flow to the rad, so the fan is huffing and puffing to no avail.
Such settings completely negate the advantages of having an efan, namely, only using the fan when absolutely necessary.
Just a few days ago I was redoing some of my fan wiring (having determined that the BAC valve activation was functional) and I needed to confirm that all was good.
With ambient temp of @ 75° and the hood open, I started the car (it was stone cold) and waited to see the fan kick on.
And waited, and waited...
Water temp hit 180° and stayed there.
Just the pump, thermostat and passive radiation off the rad was enough to hold the temp steady, some 14° below the low trigger point of the fan.
With your settings, my fan would have come on- and stayed on- much earlier... but to no purpose as the thermostat would have regulated the flow to hit 180° anyway.
Basically, as long as you have a functioning thermostat installed, 160° is a completely unrealistic goal and you're just wasting electricity and wearing out the fan.
07-15-09, 10:46 AM
#17
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I think SPAL recommends such a spread so that the controller mimics the stock clutch fan. The theory is that if it is set for low at 160 degrees, it will be about 50% at thermostat temp which should be enough to keep the car at a steady temperature.
With my controller, I could not get adequate cooling unless I set the low speed to about 75 and the high speed to about 90.
The price of the new controller doubles the price of the old one but with the improvements they have made I hesitate to say that it's too much money. However, it was too much money for me, having already spent $80 on the original controller that sucked. I was not going to risk spending more money on the new version which might have failed just as spectacularly. Instead I installed an $8.99 40A relay and now my car has not been hotter then 90 degrees (fan activation temp).
With my controller, I could not get adequate cooling unless I set the low speed to about 75 and the high speed to about 90.
The price of the new controller doubles the price of the old one but with the improvements they have made I hesitate to say that it's too much money. However, it was too much money for me, having already spent $80 on the original controller that sucked. I was not going to risk spending more money on the new version which might have failed just as spectacularly. Instead I installed an $8.99 40A relay and now my car has not been hotter then 90 degrees (fan activation temp).
07-15-09, 12:00 PM
#19
IIRC, the stock fan's clutch starts to engage at 160F, and is fully locked at 180F. However, I can't find the page in the FSM that gives the specs. But you're right, clokker, having a fan running below thermostat temp doesn't really do anything.
The 180/195F (82/91C for Aaron) setting has been working extremely well for me. Over the past 3 days, the fan hasn't once been run at 100% speed, since the temp stays below 190F no matter what I do. I'm sure I can get it to climb higher if I really beat on it, or the ambient temps get even higher (it's already been 80-90F), but for your average drive it's rock-solid.
Also, if I had a big current hog fan, I'd probably move the range up by about 5 degrees to keep it from running all the time. As it is now, it's likely on almost all the time since it is set to 180F minimum. But pulling only 3 amps to do that is fine by me.
The 180/195F (82/91C for Aaron) setting has been working extremely well for me. Over the past 3 days, the fan hasn't once been run at 100% speed, since the temp stays below 190F no matter what I do. I'm sure I can get it to climb higher if I really beat on it, or the ambient temps get even higher (it's already been 80-90F), but for your average drive it's rock-solid.
Also, if I had a big current hog fan, I'd probably move the range up by about 5 degrees to keep it from running all the time. As it is now, it's likely on almost all the time since it is set to 180F minimum. But pulling only 3 amps to do that is fine by me.
10-21-09, 05:50 PM
#22
Update
About 6 weeks ago I started running into a problem with the controller. It seems the overcurrent protection feature, which is designed to shut down the fan if current exceeds 25A for too long, was triggering when it shouldn't have. The result was random shut downs (not cool!) that left me fan-less until I could power cycle the controller by turning the ignition on/off. My fan is only rated at 15.9A, and measurements say it's more like 10-11A, so there was no way it was actually pulling too many amps.
So I did some research on the net and found a thread in another car forum talking about the same problem. Their fix was asking Spal to disable the overcurrent protection feature. Going off of this, I called up Spal's tech department and asked about the problem. Apparently it's been happening to others as well, so it was suggested that I try a couple of things before having the diagnostics circuit removed: solder all power connections (the kit has large gauge crimps) & cut the extra ground wire for the temperature sensor. I guess these tricks have worked for some other people, but it still randomly shut my fan down, so I just sent the unit in. The guys at Spal ended up fixing it and shipping it back to me the same day they received it, free of charge. The fan now stays operational at all times like it should!
So I did some research on the net and found a thread in another car forum talking about the same problem. Their fix was asking Spal to disable the overcurrent protection feature. Going off of this, I called up Spal's tech department and asked about the problem. Apparently it's been happening to others as well, so it was suggested that I try a couple of things before having the diagnostics circuit removed: solder all power connections (the kit has large gauge crimps) & cut the extra ground wire for the temperature sensor. I guess these tricks have worked for some other people, but it still randomly shut my fan down, so I just sent the unit in. The guys at Spal ended up fixing it and shipping it back to me the same day they received it, free of charge. The fan now stays operational at all times like it should!
10-21-09, 07:36 PM
#24
Yeah, I have the FD alternator in now, but I'm not happy with the Atkins double pulley. It's underdriving too much, so I picked up one of the pulleys hiGGi used to make instead. It's much smaller and will allow better performance at idle.
10-22-09, 10:13 AM
#25
Engine, Not Motor
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Cut the ground wire eh? Good to know that SPAL is still producing a circuit with a major defect as this is the exact same advice they gave me due to their old circuit sharing a signal and power ground.
You're making me want to get the new version as it sounds like it's working for you. This winter I'll be losing the extra output on my Microtech in favor of using it to drive the BAC valve so I'll need some way of controlling the FAN. But it's hard to justify spending another $130 on top of the $80 I have already spent on the previous version especially when it sounds like SPAL still didn't get it right...
You're making me want to get the new version as it sounds like it's working for you. This winter I'll be losing the extra output on my Microtech in favor of using it to drive the BAC valve so I'll need some way of controlling the FAN. But it's hard to justify spending another $130 on top of the $80 I have already spent on the previous version especially when it sounds like SPAL still didn't get it right...