powrdby13B

Okay.. 88NA.. stock with true duals and a cone filter. Floods all the time. All of a sudden it started to NOT unflood. Generally I have to charge the battery in order to crank it enough to start. I replaced the plugs and wires, but that didn't help. It floods pretty well, and when I go to unflood it (unplug fuel pump) it, all it does it kick like it's ABOUT to start.. but doesn't. It used to rev to about 3 grand and then die and i could plug the pump back in and it would go. Now it just acts like it might start but then floods again. After enough messing around it will EVENTUALLY start and run well, but it blows blue smoke like i said.. so i think my omp is shot. wtf??

Carzy Driver

I would not say it's the omp, but more like your oil seals on the rotors. since you been having such a bad issue with flooding the gas could be eating the seals, that could be causing the blue smoke to appear.

powrdby13B

I've been trying to avoid thinking about that... I want other ideas LoL.. That makes sense thow for a lot of reasons... Mainly that the rotors compress at like 75psi...

Carzy Driver

well whats the compression you have, 75 is still good enough, if you have good equal compression I say the injectors are leaking big time.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

75 is pretty low..

powrdby13B

i have equal compression. Leaky injectors is a possibility.. it's a bit of a drive to get another set that I have.. but i can do it tomorrow!
Any other ideas? because i'm so hyped on caffeine right now that i'm about to explode. I could pull an engine in two hours right now.

Carzy Driver

I think 75 is just an example J-Rat

powrdby13B

no it's 75 all around.. or within a couple PSI anyway.. car has 164k miles on it LoL..

powrdby13B

leaky injectors makes perfect sense because it runs fine when it finally starts.. maybe a little different than usual but nothing to worry about.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Oh, okay.

Well, if you have a motor that blows blue smoke, and is hard to start, I generally start thinking about rebuild time. Leaky injectors are a possibility, and can be tested quite easily by pulling up the fuel rails, zip tying the injectors back to the rails, and pressurizing the system. Any leaking injectors would be readily apparent.

Carzy Driver

the only ways I can think that oil can get into the housings is the omp, rotor oil seals, oil seeping through metal faces (if this happens you'll see oil in the coolant), and maybe somehow you got premix in your gas tank.

powrdby13B

i'm thinkin omp for the oil.. because it's not a LOT of smoke.. but you can tell.
It sure does blow white smoke thow.. and it sure smells like unburnt gas in the exhaust.. like it's not burning it or somesuch

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

The OMP is incapable of supplying enough oil to cause excessive smoke.

powrdby13B

i mean there's just a hint of blue smoke.. like you can't really see it but you know it's there type of thing.
we have LOTS of white smoke.. and not just when you start it.. it's like a smokescreen about until it warms up.. then there's still a little white smoke.. and maybe a drop of blue here and there.

Carzy Driver

I agree, omp only put out, correct me on this, 5-6ml/min. or ml/hr? at WOT, otherwards it doesn't inject enough oil to be noticable. Also agree with J-Rat again, start thinking of doing a rebuild.

powrdby13B

i'm trying to avoid that for at LEAST another few months.. Right now i'm trying to figure out what's causing all the white smoke.

Icemark

at 75 PSI the engine is past the minimums and needing rebuilding, and should have been rebuilt probably 30-40K miles ago (I would have rebuilt at 85-90 PSI, myself).

Flooding is also a classic example of poor compression.

If the MOP was on full all the time, the extra oil would actually increase compression, not lower it.

white smoke when the engine is warm...suggests that coolant seals are about to go as well... leading to even more new parts needed when rebuilding

Carzy Driver

white smoke is often steam from the condensation in the cats evaporating, does it last long, if it does have you been adding alot of coolant lately.

powrdby13B

yeah...
is there anything i can do to make it start better (blows white smoke a lot like i said) and drive for maybe another month or two until I can get my other engine built?

powrdby13B

no it lasts indefinitely and there's no coolant related issues that i know of..

powrdby13B

time to eat. back in 30.
White smoke, won't start, looking for ANY short term alternative to rebuilding

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Cheap beater to drive till you can afford a rebuild?

Icemark

sell the car...

There are no cheap alternitives to rebuilding. If you can not afford to rebuild now, well- it will only cost more when you actually do rebuild. The longer you wait to rebuild it, the more parts that will need to be replaced and the higher cost to rebuild.

powrdby13B

i have another rx7 to drive.. two more actually.. and i have a motor that is ALMOST ready to be put in a car.
I'm not really looking for a way to drive it and what not.. just a way to make it start so i can get it back home where I can rebuild it. PLus I need it to start so I can move it around to get another car in and out of the garage and such. Just a way to start it easily so I can move it if I have to.

Carzy Driver

There was a guy on the forum awhile back who came up with the buddy system for those with the problem you got. he would unflood it, connect the cas put plugs back in but leave the fuse out and start cranking again, here's where a buddy comes in, with the car cranking have someone put the fuse back in and according to him, it starts everytime.?.?.?
sounds like a good idea, never tried it though, never had flooding problems