something stuck? Bad Backfire
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something stuck? Bad Backfire
Gettin ready for a move , my 7 is fn up ..
is starts up fine gets to normal op. temp thin idel goes to crap adjusted tps to 1 volt no change to runabilty .
took out for a spin ran ok but under de-accel backfire BAD backfire like shootin a spud gun i thought my muff blown up . throttle it out and thin **** started happenin sounded like lawn mower if i hit gas it would sputter not increase rpm. i could hold rpm and it sounded ok engage clutch back to mowing lawns lol..... this would come and go like something was stuck but i dont know. i barely made it home. thought i blown motor but i go so start next day it fires up ok runs like normal sounds like normal WTF. dont want this to happen again. i have not done compression check but removed lower plugs cranked motor and it sounded like 3 even woosh on both rotors .
emissions are removed btw hard to start back up when motor is warmed up
here is sone things i have checked
TPS = 1volt whan warmed up
BAC made some clicking noises is that normal
Broke a air bypass valve see pic below and where can i find 1 ??
new injectors new gaskets for intake
idel still sucks *** but have not messed with
is starts up fine gets to normal op. temp thin idel goes to crap adjusted tps to 1 volt no change to runabilty .
took out for a spin ran ok but under de-accel backfire BAD backfire like shootin a spud gun i thought my muff blown up . throttle it out and thin **** started happenin sounded like lawn mower if i hit gas it would sputter not increase rpm. i could hold rpm and it sounded ok engage clutch back to mowing lawns lol..... this would come and go like something was stuck but i dont know. i barely made it home. thought i blown motor but i go so start next day it fires up ok runs like normal sounds like normal WTF. dont want this to happen again. i have not done compression check but removed lower plugs cranked motor and it sounded like 3 even woosh on both rotors .
emissions are removed btw hard to start back up when motor is warmed up
here is sone things i have checked
TPS = 1volt whan warmed up
BAC made some clicking noises is that normal
Broke a air bypass valve see pic below and where can i find 1 ??
new injectors new gaskets for intake
idel still sucks *** but have not messed with
#3
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I may be wrong but i think that part has to do with the accelerated warmup system. I THINK I had one that was broken in the same exact spot. I cant remember if it affected how the car ran though.
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The part w/the frayed wire is the Air Bypass Valve as previously noted. Its job is to create the high rev warm up on a cold engine. Other than that it doesn't really serve much purpose. Are you driving the car w/the component removed from the engine and if so what did you do w/the open ended hoses which connected to it?
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the Air Bypass Valve is still in the car w/ the 2 hoses hooked up. question is why so difficult to start when motor is warmed and how can i can i solve the bad backfire probelms. and why it was stalling under throttle and NOT sounding Right (exhaust) and let me describe sound i have duel Greddy exhaust its LOUD!! this sounded like a lawn mower. still could hold rev but could not accel.
#7
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the Air Bypass Valve is still in the car w/ the 2 hoses hooked up. question is why so difficult to start when motor is warmed and how can i can i solve the bad backfire probelms. and why it was stalling under throttle and NOT sounding Right (exhaust) and let me describe sound i have duel Greddy exhaust its LOUD!! this sounded like a lawn mower. still could hold rev but could not accel.
Sometimes a lawnmower sound is cause by the engine running on "one rotor" among other things.
As stated earlier, the car conking out could be a ground problem. For example, the Main Relay has a ground. If that ground is poor it could cause the relay to shut off which would then cut power to the coils, injectors, ECU, etc....
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water thermo sens. is new just replaced like a week ago . Grounds.... i have cleaned up the grounds under intake .. the 4 or so by the driver side shock tower andgrounded the boost sensor .... BUT thin again before i added the ground to boost senor i grounded the ref wire (wrong wire) rookie mistake that may messsed something else up .
a BAC question this thing should not make a buzzing noise (like stuck) tryed to clean thin noticed it making noise ... open and closed that is the operation of the componet correct ?? checked res. a while ago it was in spec.
BTW no codes are flashing from ecu
Thanks again for ever1s help
a BAC question this thing should not make a buzzing noise (like stuck) tryed to clean thin noticed it making noise ... open and closed that is the operation of the componet correct ?? checked res. a while ago it was in spec.
BTW no codes are flashing from ecu
Thanks again for ever1s help
#10
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water thermo sens. is new just replaced like a week ago . Grounds.... i have cleaned up the grounds under intake .. the 4 or so by the driver side shock tower andgrounded the boost sensor .... BUT thin again before i added the ground to boost senor i grounded the ref wire (wrong wire) rookie mistake that may messsed something else up .
a BAC question this thing should not make a buzzing noise (like stuck) tryed to clean thin noticed it making noise ... open and closed that is the operation of the componet correct ?? checked res. a while ago it was in spec.
BTW no codes are flashing from ecu
Thanks again for ever1s help
a BAC question this thing should not make a buzzing noise (like stuck) tryed to clean thin noticed it making noise ... open and closed that is the operation of the componet correct ?? checked res. a while ago it was in spec.
BTW no codes are flashing from ecu
Thanks again for ever1s help
As far as the BAC goes I believe you need to be careful as far as which terminal on the BAC receives voltage and which receives ground for mixing them up can damage it. If the terminals were wired correctly for testing purposes the solenoid will click. In this case the positive terminal is the one in which the B/W wire was connected to before disconnection of the plug. When mounted on the car after driving the car it should vibrate for a while before turning off.
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