Hello to everyone who is smarter and than me. I'll make it quick. completed my non turbo to turbo swap, all by myself so the car starts idles pretty good. Once I give it throttle it dies out, its an 87 with 87 turbo motor. someone told me it was an 87.5 because it was built in june.Also the motor has all the block off plates, which I know removed some senors,and some emissions, which this car is off road use only. Its in the garage at the moment LOL. I have, I hope the right sensors, ecu and maf. on my wire harness my fuel pump relay has a terminated end. it idles with it or with the actual relay itself. I have some pics tell me if I'm missing something or if I have what I need and its hooked up wrong. The MAF is a turbo MAF. Also I have an extra resistor relay that maybe for a different year, please let me know if its not going to work on my car.thanks

 

You need to cap the large nipple that used to go to the BAC, it is a huge vacuum leak

 

That's the one coming off of my stock turbo pipe to the intercooler right? Should I cap it or does it connect to some sort of vac. source ? I have no reference other than the shop manual of how things are connected its been hit and miss this whole build. I'll try to cap it thanks.

 

if it was built in june then it would be an 88 and have high impedence injectors which wont work with the resistor pack.

that nipple used to go to the BAC, but you got rid of it, so yeah.

 

this circled in red should be caped) as it would be big leak.

 

N332 is an 87 ECU. Just look at your fuel injectors if they are red/pink with center orientation they are high impedance, tan with off center orientation they are low impedance which require the resistor pack. If you still can't tell check with an ohmmeter should be around 2-3 ohms for low impedance and 11-13 for high impedance

 

If you hooked up the wiring onto the injectors yourself you could have inadvertently mixed the injector wiring up.
I had the same problem on a build..and it stumps ya..

double check the color coded wires off the harness to the injectors.

 

Here is my injector set up

 

also here is another dumb question but not so dumb, which one of these connectors is for the alternator? long one or short one?

 

The plug for the alternator should have a Black/White wire and a White/Black wire. From your picture, neither of them fit the proper description.

 

Well those are the wires I have so I need to make the best of it. trial error . If you looked at my pics. Does the injector set up look proper or do I need to swap sides?

 

The White/Black wire that is supposed to be in the plug for the alternator would run to the largest plug of the CPU. This plug has two rows. One row is a full row while the other row has a gap in it. The W/B wire would be found next to the gap where the wire on the next row is Blue. You could try a continuity test to find where the strangely colored wire in the plug which looks like the alternator plug runs to.

 

Post#8..
peel back the wires and get the color codes of the wires to the Injectors,and the placement of the connectors in reference to the injectors on the engine.
If one of those connectors go to "the wrong injector" then that is your problem.

If you accidentally put a secondary injector connector on a Primary injector it does not get power at idle..then when you press the gas it will transitition and both injectors die.
As I said it is easy to screw up if you did not mark the wires.I found that out.

 

The injector wiring is almost fool proof. Short for primary long for secondary. I'll get my VOM this weekend and check for continuity. Thanks for all your help so far .