I am tranny problems and i upgraded the hydrolics.. and the problem is still there.. you mentioned once before that you had to grind something on the sr motorsports lightweight flywheel or something on the pressure plate. can you explain this a little more?? cuz now after changing the hydrolics .. i need to have this car running soon.. so any help you can give me would be very appreciated ..

thanks

 

If you want to speak to rotaryresurrection directly, a PM is best. If you want everyone to try and help then let us know what the symptoms of the car are besides "tranny problems." The SR motorsports flywheel is aluminum and shouldn't ever need resurfacing. Is the pressure plate on your clutch set heat-warped or cracked? That could certainly cause some problems...slight heat marks on a pressure plate can be cleaned/resurfaced. More sever marks (and slipping) are signs that the pressure plate is excessively worn and needs replacing. How does your clutch disk look? Is the friction material all worn off? Any cracks?

 

your right about the pm .. i just thought that he would see that faster if i posted this in a thread ,, not to mention i know of a few other people having the same problem. so i thought that if i post in a open thread other people can learn from this.

as for the pressure plate . its brand new.. act clutch and pressure plate.. new throw out bearing.. everything in there is new ,, except the tranny. so i cant think of anything that would be causing this .. i have bled, re bled ,, and then re bled some more;.. nothing is working .. i have adjusted the pedal like 1000 times.

kevin once said that he once installed a sr flywheel and he was getting some kind of interferance.. or something .. he grided down a tab or something and it solved the problem

 

Take a pic of the flywheel and post here, and i will point out what I am talking about using that pic. I believe this applies to nonturbo flywheels only.

 

ok ,, ill try and do that tomorrow ,, i have to go to work now .. butill see what i can do .. thanks again kevin

 

btw .. i just measured the distance of travel of the slave cylinder

at rest
2.25 inches

fully depressed

2.75 inches .

im wondering if this could be the problem before i drop the tranny again ??

 

1/2" or more is about right. IT doesnt have to move a whole lot to do it's job. So long as it holds pressure (doesnt gradually slide back with pedal depressed over time) its probably okay.

 

it should be fine , the whole hydrolic system is brand new ,, except the steel tubing right off the master and go to the fire wall union

btw .. thanks again kevin for your help,, ill try and get some pics tomorrow when i pull that tranny

 

Hmmm, so the SR flywheel needs grinding to work correctly on an NA motor? If there is no warning or instructions with that note in the new flywheel packaging I'd say that SR should include that, no?

 

All I can say is that the one SR NA flywheel and ACT clutch combo I installed would NOT work properly until I found the problem and ground some material away. Not from the friction area, but from the mounting area (PP to FW).

 

My flywheel was resurfaced and i think i should have had it shimmed.

No one ever talks about shimming flywheels though.

I have a act and i had to make a new slave rod b/c it would not completely throw out the clutch fork (longer so there was not play at rest).

Those ACT pressure plates require a lot of travel to fully disengauge.

i have all new component and SS lines. Now it's about the same as a stock clutch after making the new rod.

Before it was almost till the ground before it was disenguaged and i didn't like that.

 

when "turning" a flywheel, one must be sure to take an equal amount of material on from the mounting surface as they do from the friction surface.

 

yes but you also have to shim otherwise the flywheel would just get thinner

there are actualy shims for the 13b.......... i've found some.

 

what are you shimming, you have to keep the distance between the gpp and flywheel friction surface uniform. if you machine both you acomplish that.

 

the position of the flywheel

you take material from one side of the flywheel.

In order to bring it back to the same position you have to put a spacer on the other side of the flywheel.

If you don't it will keep moving farther and farther away from the clutch fork as you keep taking material off.

That's shimming a flywheel

 

got some pics

 

I think the key is to buy your alumi flywheel from racing beat and foget SR My RB went on with zero problems.

 

ok got it working

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I still don't understand the need. If you take .0020 of the friction surface and .0020 off the landing the disk will be in the exact same relationship between the flysheel and pp. If you do not machine the landing, then you might have an issue. The only thing that changes is the position the spline rides on the input shaft. And believe me being .0020 further away from the trans makes absolutly no difference.

 

i think i found it .. its the small circular cut out, there is 3 of them on the outer side of the the flywheel. but i found small nicks on one side of the circle like it was only hitting on one side ,, duh a engine only spins one way. but on the pressure plate to there is a matching nick.. kevin is this what you are talking about

 

It's not that your explanantion doesn't make sense, I just don't beleive that take 0.030" off the friction surface of any flywheel will present any problems.

As Mr. Gadget said, what comes off of the friction surface has to come off of the mounting bosses. This keeps all of the parts spaced the same relative to each other.

The only part of the system that is affected by machining material off is the ratio of the travel of the slave actuator arm relative to the movement of the pressure plate. Since this is a ratio it's effect is minimized and the factory has designed in enough travel in the slave actuator to more then cover the very small amount coming off of the flywheel.

If it didn't work this way then as the parts in the system wore away (which they are designed to do), you would have to constantly adjust the clutch slave cylinder travel and the clutch/pressure plate positions.


Sesshoumaru, I'm not challanging your comment, it's just that I don't think shimming should be necessary, that's all.

 

i think in my case i need to shim the pressure plate away from the flywheel.. the clearance is close , but i remember that when i recieved the pressure plate there was 2 washers clipped to it.. i threw these away thinking nothing of it .. im wondering if these are what i needed .. the guy at sr said i didnt but it would explain why i need a little clearance

 

Well if it is worn down, then you do resuface, then it gets worn down again, then resurfaced again. It does end up moving a bit.

Alot of places tell you how much they take off so you can shim.

the key is the ratio that was mentioned earlier. For stock applications no problem -lots of play.

When you get to upgraded pressure plates like the ACT on a NORMAL system takes the pedal almost to the ground to depress it.

Now that little bit you moved that flywheel back is bitting you.

There was no way my 100 pecent working system with upgraded components (all new with less than 10,000 miles and SS lines) could dissengauge my clutch.

There was no air and firm all the way down.

I watched the clutch fork being depressed. Every inch the pedal moved the slave moved (friend helped).

Still not enough.

My only solution without re-shimming was to make a longer slave rod (so at rest it was touching the clutch fork- there is normally 1/4" or so of play before it touches).

I just never hear it talked about or mentioned but i'm pretty sure I had a problem b/c of it and it wasn't pretty.

 

HEY...CAN YOU GUYS TALKING ABOUT SURFACING A FLYWHEEL PLEASE GO MAKE YOUR OWN THREADS? We're a bit off topic here, and we're trying to find a resolution to this guy's problem, which has nothing at all to do with resurfacing.

DAMN I'm good!

You got it...that's your problem. That nick SHOWS you that the pressureplate wasn't being allowed to release the clutch disc..meaning you can't shift gears. You need to grind out those semicircles...I'd take out 1/8" or more, just for safety, from ALL of them. You dont want to have to do this again, because you didn't take enough off.

Someone does need to make SR aware of this, now that the flaw in their design has been confirmed.

No, absolutely NOT. IF you do this, you'll have a slipping or nonfuctional clutch. You need to explain to the guys at SR that the springs on the pressureplate, that protrude downward from the mounting surface, are hitting the flywheel, and those areas need to be machined out more in the future. Send your pics to support this. For now, just grind yours out quite a bit to eliminate any interference. ANd then it will all work right.

IF you have any question, take your old stock flywheel, and compare it to the SR flywheel...as far as how the PP mounting areas are different. You'll notice the stocker has MUCH more room in those semicircle areas...there is your problem.

 

actually before you posted RR i started slightly grinding down that place on the PP and i ran a feeler gauge and i have some decent clearance.. since i have can finish it today ill have to wait till tomorrow.. but ill take the stockier under there with me and compare the size .. thanks a ton for your help RR hopefully she will be able to drive this weekend thanks again