UnderConstruction7

If you've read my last thread you know my current situation. I just bought myself a 87 RX-7 w/ a N/A rotary & an auto. transmission. The transmission that was in there to begin with was shot completly. It wouldn't go forward unless you damn near redlined it for about a min.

So I bought a new transmission thinking everything was going to be kool, I was pretty wrong. We had to use sensors off the transmission that was in there to begin with. That just so happened to be a mistake because now this one doesn't shift into second gear or anything after 1st. My first instinct was the sensor because I got beep codes & the speedometer wasnt working.

I went to the Mazda Dealership to see if they had the sensor & to my suprise (according to the parts guy) It doesn't use a sensor, rather a cable. I know that cable is used for the speedometer to work, but if its not the sensor thats causing it to not shift, then what could it be? You all seem to be pretty knowledgable on rotaries, which is why im turning to you all here. So if theres anyone who can help me or point me in the right direction within this city(Orlando, Fl), please do

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Sadly your biggest mistake was getting another automatic transmission. They really are a horrible unit and they break so frequently I wouldn't be surprised if you got another bad one. Is your HOLD light stuck on at all?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

s4's dont have HOLD, rat.

The auto trans in the 2gen rx-7 is one of the worst designs of any part in any car that I have ever seen. Even when it works properly, it shifts poorly, responds poorly to input, doesnt shift crisply (slips a little going into gear), etc. I have never seen one that worked right. Plus, it takes away, no ****, about 30% of what little low end torque your engine has anyway, compared to a 5sp setup.

The only way Id try to use an automatic is to have it fully inspected and rebuilt by a GOOD tranny man. Even then, I'd expect 1-2 years out of it.

The speedo cable has jackl to do with the transmission shifting or working. IT's a mechanical output to the speedo, not an electrical input or output from the trans.

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

Sounds to me like an auto tranny was an afterthought to the mazda engineers designing the car, eh?

UnderConstruction7

Well, I went down to the local rotary performance shop on OBT(for the people in Orlando). He/They have a 88 RX-7 w/ 90+K on it & a manual. So I talked to them & got a price on the complete conversion. $2,200 is how much everything will come to(The car dealer will sell the motor & tranny for 1,200 & the installer will do it for $1,000) So, now im kind of at a crossroads because thats enough to just go out and buy a manual S4. I guess i'll just try and get this to work out with the conversion, unless I find one around here that is worth that, then its off with one 7 & in with another.

Side note : I'm curious, what exactly would it take for an N/A powered 7 to run low 13s/high 12s with full interior. I'm don't really want to turbo it because my truck(Nissan Hardbody) will be packing that power(RB20DET). I was thinking about S/C the 7 seeing as how I am doing this conversion, but personally I prefer Vortech's brand of Superchargers & im not exactly sure what it'd take to actually get a rotary to react correctly with one. If I can do it, it will also be backed by a Vortech one-off(unless I can use a production model) aftercooler. - Vortech Supercharger, V-5 F-Trim, Straight Discharge, Standard Shaft, Polished Finish

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Agreed with Kevin, that JATCO unit sucks..

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Wow, never really realized that the only auto FC's i've seen have been s5. Sorry for spreading mis-info.

UnderConstruction7

Well, I went out to start it & I just got that amazing beep code again, but this time I didn't move it at all. It sat at 2K rpms, so im guessing it's what was listed in the FAQ stickey. It beeped for longer than 18-secs though, but it did the slow steady beep & when I turned the motor off with the key still in the ignition & the power still running, I heard some sound that I really can't explain from the motor. Seems like all signs are pointing to the donor car more & more

I keep hearing a beep beep beep
Probably the power steering computer telling you there is a problem with the system. The number of beeps before pausing will indicate the problem.
1-beep, pause, repeat - in case abnormality of speed sensor signal:
In case broken wires or short circuits occur to sensors or harnesses, the buzzer sounds 60-seconds after the engine speed signal of 2200 rpm continues for 18-seconds

It seems that the previous owner ran that car into the ground & well, its now my job to bring it back to life and show that when you are determined anything can be reached (sorry had to go infomercial on you all for a sec)

BTW : I found that shop I was talking about on OBT, its sign for the delearship is Amigos auto but the tuning shop is Fuego Racing. This is where im getting everything done. I'll let you all know how it turns out.

Kenteth

WTF: the shop wants $2200 to swap engines and trannies? Well... for one do you even need a different engine? If the one you has works... why bother putting a 90k mile engine in. If you have the tools you, you can do a 5spd swap yourself for around $500 or less including parts.

That said... to run high 12s in an n/a? Lots of ******* cash and time... LOTS.... no seriously... ******* lots. Like... 787b swap type LOTS. (not quite that bad... but its more than I can afford). I'd buy and FD if I had that much money actually

I dunno, maybe its not that bad, but 12s would be pretty hard in an N/A. I'd imagine you'ld be looking at a pport, which would be completely unstreetable.


EDIT:
How much do they want for that 88 FC? Are they even asking $2200 for that car?


EDIT2:

Back to the point of this thread... how do you know the replacement tranny is any good? Could be 3rd and OD are gone in it too... Hell I had two trannies in my driveway with no 1st, 2nd, 3rd, or OD. for a few months. could be you got the stick end of the **** on that tranny.

EDIT3:
bad idea...

UnderConstruction7

Yeah I know going to Mazda was a mistake... What I meant to say was what would need to be done to run mid 13s in the 1/4 with no boost, sorry. Motor will need a rebuild pretty soon, it's approaching 155,000 miles and i'm pretty sure that it's approaching its last leg.

I would love to do this conversion by myself or with a friend, but I dont really know to many people that could assist me, as ive seen before on here. Doing a auto to manual conversion is a long process when done alone. Not to mention, wouldnt I have to change the ECU to except the new transmission? That's the main reason I wanted to have them do it. If I knew someone around here that could guide me in the conversion then I would do it.

If there is someone on here that would like to guide me in this. Hell, let me know, i'd love the experience. It still up for debate because I bought this car for $750 & it can run if it really wants. But, im going to go back to that shop to see if I can work something out. If all else fails, I may just see if they can fix whats wrong with it. Then, keep it for a bit till I can find a Turbo 2 or FD (Second part was only a dream, those cars are too damn much....right now)

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Thos prices are a ripoff, man. I usually charge $600 or so labor for the swap, or 800-900 with parts included. And no, I dont have the parts right now.

Here is a writeup that may help you...

www.rotaryresurrection.com/5speed.html

JMcCoy

I have done the conversion and it is really not that bad
(You just have to figure out how your going to mount the trans--either the bracket or welding in new mounts) the ECU is the same just remove the box (EAT I think)that controls the Auto trans. everything else is just swapping it over--I did do it by myself-there is a guide out there-step by step just do a search

UnderConstruction7

The funny part is i've used that write up as a sort of "bible" for this. I was going to get up some cash & send everything your way, you seem to have a pretty good handle on RX-7s & parts on them. Like I said though, its money that i'm waiting on. But, more and more I want to go the route of sending my car to you. If that can be done?

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

People tow cars in all the time. They all leave driving, though

UnderConstruction7

Hmm, sounds like a plan. Thanks you all. I don't know if I can bring myself to buy an RX-7 for $1,200 that is damn near completly dead though. I paid $750 the one I have now & that just needed a transmission. Look how that turned out though . If I can get him to lower the price, then he has himself a deal

UnderConstruction7

People as far as Central Florida? If I get it done at your place, i'll just get one of those beautiful rebuilt motors. Either way you'll see some part of my car because if I do this tranny swap myself. I'll need a rebuilt motor in the near future & I really haven't heard any bad thoughts on the ones you provide. I'll be looking for a port job on there too . Try and sqeeze as much streetable N/A power as I can while still be realiable, of course.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Florida, Mobile Alabama, upper Michigan, upper NY state, hell one dude drove down from NYC one time to pull a black dash from one of my partscars (I told him I didnt have time to pull a dash, but he could have it cheap if he wanted to do it himself).

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

...

UnderConstruction7

I would love to swap out the dash from a S5 or better yet, the whole friggen interior. All the way down to the seats & center console. I am sort of restoring my car at the same time im building it.

Question : Which exhaust system would be best for a street ported N/A? I was looking at the Racing Beat axle back. But I really like the look of the GReddy Power Extreme. Which one would be the quietest at lower RPMs? Which one would give me the best power? Basically which one would give me the best quiet power?