LiL'7

Ok so here is the story I bought my 10AE two weeks ago knowing it needed a brake job. I got three quotes of $1000 to fix. So i did what any rotory owner would do I fixed it my self. I just finished putting everything on.
Here is what it needed.
-2 Rear calipers
-front and rear brake pads
-a new brake master cylinder
-and a new battery
So every thing is on, and me and my buddy go to bleed the system and we find the right rear caliper is leaking so i go get it replaced and put the new one on. Now my buddy and I go to bleed the system and everything is ok so far. we bled until it was all clean fluid and no air bubbles. We went through one and a half bottles before it was done. So my friend leaves. And I just make sure everything is topped up, and clean up my work area. Then I am ready to take her for a spin. I pull her out of the garage and right off the bat she won't hold e-brake on a decline. So I start it off slow, nice and easy. I try braking and it still feels a little spongy. So here is the problem when I try to slow down it is spongy on the first push of the brake pedal then i bring my foot back up and push down again and it is hard. So I thought maybe she needs to be bled again so I bleed and there is no air coming out of any of the calipers. So now what? I am seriously thinking about taking it to midas and letting them fix it. But I do not want to quit what I started. Do any of you guys have any suggestions. Any help would be great.

- Sorry about the long post but I thought that for a good diagnosis you guys should know the whole story.

Cwaters

Did you bench blead the new Master?
The last time I messed with the brakes on my car (installed braded lines and some Hawk front pads) I was initially dissapointed with the feel of the pedal. Once the pads bedded-in, however, they feel rock solid. You may just need to burn-in the pads. Follow the manufacturer's recomendations.
Did you inspect your rubber break lines? They could be old and spongy.
The E-brake uses cables that may just need adjustment.

Good luck

Cory

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure you did bleed both areas on rear caliper. Upper and lower bleed screws.
Also check hoses for deterioration. I wouldn't adjust the emergency brake until pedal is firm and brakes are working properly. Just make sure the emergency brake cable is not energizing the rear pads. Adjust it all the way out so arms rest on stops.
Good Luck

LiL'7

I was supposed to bleed both top and bottom I just bled the bottom. That is shat it said to do in the haynes service manual if you do a complete caliper overhaul then bleed from the bottom valve.

LiL'7

Can anybody give me any advice at all

HIMNI Racing

haynes sevrvice manuals blow!!! throw it away. try www.FC3S.org you may see something that you forget about. You can also try cheking all your lines hard and rubber for a hole. probbly really small. I assume your brake booster is working fine...no vacume leaks or funny sounds?

LiL'7

I cross checked the 88 FSM on the FC3s.org web site and everything in haynes is the same as in the FSM. I have the feeling it might be the hard lines because the ruber ones were fine. I have no clue what to do. It would have to be the lines there is nothing else left.

Scracho

Hmmmm.... Thats really wierd. My uncle is going through the same damm thing right now with his N/A. New calipers and rotors, bleed lines and she keeps going all spongy... I'll keep you posted if we figure it out!

Icemark

Your booster is leaking slightly.

And you do know that you must re-adjust the parking brake everytime you change pads, right???

LiL'7

Scracho - that would be great let me know how it turns out.

Icemark - why would you say it could be the booster. Is there a way to check, because when I was changing the master cylinder I did not see any leaks coming from it.

Icemark

poor mans Booster test:

with the car not running for at least 15 minutes. Press brake, does it continue to fall or does it set?

With the car running at idle, same test. If it starts to fall, but it didn't when the engine is off, the booster is leaking vacuum.

LiL'7

yeah that is what's happening. Brake pedal set when off and soft when on. So how would i go about fixing it?

Icemark

Replace or rebuild the booster assembly.

I would check for vacuum leaks first, and make sure that someone didn't replace the brake booster vacuum line and forget to move the vacuum valve.

But if that checks out, then yes you can either live with the pumping once or twice, or replacing the booster.