solinoid rack question.
11-23-06, 11:44 AM
#1
solinoid rack question.
Ok on my 88 TII im removing the rats nest, all the other emissions stuff has been removed, can I remove all the solinoids? I also want to keep my twin scroll and i kno there is a solinoid for that, can i just leave that one and take the rest out?
11-23-06, 04:33 PM
#3
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
I went and did an Advanced Search and used the words *solenoids and removal* and threw in NZCONVERTIBLE as a name. The results are: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/search...archid=2637756
I'd bet there is a thread in the Archeives also. Don't know myself. Never looked. Never NEEDED to look.
I'd bet there is a thread in the Archeives also. Don't know myself. Never looked. Never NEEDED to look.
11-23-06, 06:30 PM
#7
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
Originally Posted by RX7Boy06
Well that link dosent work, and all the threads i found during a search got rid of all the solinoids, and the one in the archives says to ditch all the solinoids but it is being specific to n/a sooo....
Re: quick emmisions removal question
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Three of the solenoids are for emission controls (and hence are redundant), one is for the twin-scroll turbo control system, and the other is for the hot-start assist system.
Unless you've removed the flap from the manifold, there's no advantage in disabling the twin-scroll system, only increased turbo lag. You'll get better performance with it working than with it wired open. If you've already removed the flap then the solenoid's redundant.
The hot-start assist system improves starting and idling if you start the car when it's really hot. Normally that's a short time after shutdown, so everythings nice and heatsoaked. It does this by cutting the vac signal to the FPR to increase fuel pressure for a short time. If you remove it you may experince problems hot-starting the car. It's up to you whether you're prepared to live with this or not. If you are, the solenoid's redudndant.
If you've deciced you don't need any of these then you can remove the whole lot. You'll need to run new fuel lines (they're part of the metal spider) and a new vac line to the FPR. The EFI chapter of the FSM is mandatory reading for this job. All the info you need is there.
__________________
Jason
'88 Turbo Convertible (Japanese import) click for pics
Quote:
Originally Posted by TII
still useing the twin scroll - how to hook it up without the nest
Take both the solenoid with the green plug and the little green and white check valve off the rack. Use vac line to plumb it up exactly as per the schematic on page 4B-53 of the FSM, i.e manifold, check valve, solenoid, actuator. Note that both the check valve and the solenoid must be arranged exactly as per the schematic or it won't work. The check valve must allow air to flow to the manifold but not from it (it has a flow arrow on it). Mount the solenoid somewhere handy and extend the wires of the green plug so it can reach the solenoid.
Quote:
diagram i have shows 4 vac lines going around to the bak of the uim but there are only three nipples can i use one that is on the front side of the uim that was going to be capped off
Not all the UIM nipples see vac, and the twin-scroll must be connected to one that does. On the front you can use the top or bottom nipples but not the middle one, and on the rear you can only use the bottom one.
__________________
Jason
'88 Turbo Convertible (Japanese import) click for pics
To seperate the Quotes from the NZ, just look at who is using a capital letter when he starts a sentence. If the sentence starts with a small letter, ignore that part altogether for obvious reasons.
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-23-06 at 06:46 PM.
Trending Topics
11-23-06, 06:53 PM
#9
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...VACUUM+DIAGRAM
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...VACUUM+DIAGRAM
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...VACUUM+DIAGRAM
Last edited by HAILERS; 11-23-06 at 07:03 PM.
11-24-06, 02:44 PM
#11
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
Originally Posted by RX7Boy06
wow thanks for those links i guess the reason they didnt come up was because of me misspelling solenoid.... thanx alot that answered all my questions!!!
Then just a little while ago I actually read some of those threads I posted, and to tell you the truth, I found it hard to understand some of them, plus the diagram that NZ had posted in the past does not seem to be there. Wish he'd post it again sometime.
The GREY solenoid is for the Switching solenoid and is a control for the ACV. Emissions related and not needed.
The BLUE solenoid is for the Relief solenoid and is for control of the ACV also and not needed.
The Orange one is for the Fuel Pressure Regulator solenoid and you can either keep it or toss it, depending on how you think.
The GREEN one is for the Twin Scroll Solenoid and is a keeper.
The YELLOW one is for the EGR. Remove it and remove the EGR itself. I've NEVER had a EGR to pass emissions and the valve itself just gets in the way when my hand is behind the upper intake manifolds.
About the FPR solenoid: heres' my thoughts on that. Under 99.999999 percent of the operation of the engine, vacuum flows thru that solenoid on its way to the FPR. On occasion that solenoid will operate and shut off the vacuum to the FPR. That time is during HOT starting conditions. Frankly I find it does little to help during those conditions. It operates for I think (memory) for about 50 seconds then opens up again to supply vacuum to the FPR once more.
Remember a couple of things about NIPPLES on the throttle body itself. On the back you will have either three or four nipples one above the other. Only ONE is vacuum. That is the Bottom nipple.
On the front of the throttle body are three nipple one above the other. The bottom one IS NOT a vacuum source.
On the lower intake manifold are two oil injectors. Between them is a single nipple sticking straight up. It NEEDS to be plumbed to the four nipples at the back of the intake manifold. Plumb it to one of the TOP two nipples of those four nipples.
On the upper intake manifold, just about a inch above those two oil injectors, is a metal nipple sticking out at an angle towards the rear of the engine. That is the one to use for the FPR solnenoid, OR if you rid yourself of that orange solenoid, then route a vacuum line from that angled nipple directly to the FPR located on the rear of the upper fuel rail.
There should be a nipple on top of each oil injector and those nipples have a hose on each that goes to a piece of plastic called a spider. One hose exits the spider and will go to the LARGE nipple of the four nipples on the back of the throttle body.
IF you remove all the metal piping on the rack, meaning all those small tubes that are welded together, then you need to buy some Fuel Injection hose to route from the two feed lines on the left of the engine to the fuel rails. Route 'em correctly.
About that nipple on the back of the throttle body. The bottom one of the four there one above the other. It is the only one that has VACUUM on it. Normally it goes to that plastic water thermo valve on the throttle body. That valve has two plastic nipples. Usually that bottom nipple of the four, goes to the bottom nipple on the water thermo valve. The other nipple on that plastic valve should route to the double throttle diapharm on the left/front of the throttle body. That double throttle diaphram is used only for cold starting/running. After the car warms up it does nothing useful. So I'm saying you could if you wanted, NOT use that bottom nipple of the four for THAT purpose but something else. Maybe for a mechanical boost gauge??? OR/?????/
Any nipples not used should be capped off to seal them from vacuum leaks.
Still removing things? Remove the Air Supply Valve on the back of the throttle body. It's the solenoid just above the brake booster feed line. There will be a small hole left once the solenoid is removed. Knead some epoxy or RTV into that small hole to plug it. Removal of that item will leave some more room for your hand when messing around behind the throttle body.
On top of the upper intake manifold is a Air Bypass Solneoid. Remove it. It is only used during cold starts for Seventeen seconds. Not a useful item even for emissions testing, except Visual in Calif. Plug the line that fed it from the intercooler. Use a rubber hose with a plug in the end. A bolt shank is a plug. A piece of wood is a plug. Get the idea. Use a hose clamp to hold the plug in the hose. The hose that exited that Air Bypass Solenoid needs a plug in it also.
NEver remove the water thermowax valve on the back of the throttle body.
Most of what I just wrote is right. Those things that are not right, are....wrong. humor.
11-24-06, 03:39 PM
#12
hahah, damn i wish you could come down to waco and help me with this stuff....lol... ill figure it out maybe, also I want to get rid of the 90 degree coolant hose too considering the cold start thing dosent work because i have to hold the gas for like 20 sec to get the car to idle... so how do i get rid of it, just plug it up or loop it? If so which line do i loop it with? And which screw on the Throttle Body it the manual idle adjust screw? cause my bac valve wont bring the idle down anymore the screw is all the way adjusted so i need to kno which screw to adjust for the idle.....
Thanx youve been more than helpfull on this subject for me.....!!!
Thanx youve been more than helpfull on this subject for me.....!!!
11-25-06, 12:53 AM
#13
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
Most people run a hose from that water nipple coming out of the rear housing, to the water nipple on the back of the water pump housing. Mostly because that water that comes out of the rear housing ends up at the back of the water pump housing on the stock configuration.
Normally the water comes out of the rear housing, then goes into the throttle body, comes out of the throttle body (on top), and goes to the water line attached to the side of the BAC, then on to the nipple on the back of the water pump housing. So, you can see, if you just run a hose from the rear housing directly to the back of the water pump housing your just bypassing the items in between.
Go look at your throttle body as it sits on the engine. See the top two nuts that hold the throttle body on the manifold? Look at the rear attach nut. Now if you'll look just one inch aft of that nut you'll see a small screw with a jamnut on top of it. That is the small screw that you can turn inward to hold the throttle shaft more open. More open means higher engine speed.
Normally the water comes out of the rear housing, then goes into the throttle body, comes out of the throttle body (on top), and goes to the water line attached to the side of the BAC, then on to the nipple on the back of the water pump housing. So, you can see, if you just run a hose from the rear housing directly to the back of the water pump housing your just bypassing the items in between.
Go look at your throttle body as it sits on the engine. See the top two nuts that hold the throttle body on the manifold? Look at the rear attach nut. Now if you'll look just one inch aft of that nut you'll see a small screw with a jamnut on top of it. That is the small screw that you can turn inward to hold the throttle shaft more open. More open means higher engine speed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
joel(PA)
Group Buy & Product Dev. FD RX-7
8
10-04-15 06:07 PM
joel(PA)
Race Car Tech
0
10-01-15 10:25 AM