Solid Rear Rotor Upgrade Options
I would be SHOCKED if the Racing Brake rotors are vented, they're just too thin.
But you can go 5 lug with no penalties as long as you use the base model S5 brakes, larger rotors all around, but still solid in the rear. Better, but not great, but at least it's no points. Then at least when you decide that you really need the vented rotors it's less work to do the conversion and you don't have to replace a lot of wheels and such.
But you can go 5 lug with no penalties as long as you use the base model S5 brakes, larger rotors all around, but still solid in the rear. Better, but not great, but at least it's no points. Then at least when you decide that you really need the vented rotors it's less work to do the conversion and you don't have to replace a lot of wheels and such.
How about going PTC like I did? Getting the RX-7 13b into PTD and getting all of what you need is like putting a square plug into a round hole. With PTC you have the right amount of flexibility to play around with mods without getting too crazy.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,047
Likes: 3
From: NYC/T.O.
I feel like, if the RX-7 would be competitive in PTC, it would be a dominant set-up in PTD done right. I may forego the aftermarket manifold if need be, but I think it could work. But, I would like to be in a car that makes more than yours, SCCAITS, while being in a lower class. That being said, the choice is 4 points divided into two of the following five options:
Aftermarket Intake Manifold
4 Piston, Vented Rear Brakes
Sway Bars
Dashboard/Center Console/Glove Box Removal
Rear 3-Point Strut Bar
Opinions?
EDIT: Just looked at the sticky, the 4 lug and the 5 lug solid are both 10.3 inches in diameter. Wouldn't be a size upgrade if I went 5 lug.....interesting.
Aftermarket Intake Manifold
4 Piston, Vented Rear Brakes
Sway Bars
Dashboard/Center Console/Glove Box Removal
Rear 3-Point Strut Bar
Opinions?
EDIT: Just looked at the sticky, the 4 lug and the 5 lug solid are both 10.3 inches in diameter. Wouldn't be a size upgrade if I went 5 lug.....interesting.
Last edited by Roen; Mar 7, 2008 at 07:42 AM.
Hmmm, that's interesting, I thought they were larger.
I'd forget about the rear strut bar if I were you (well technically it's a shock tower brace, there's no struts back there). I had one, then removed it. Didn't really notice much if any difference. Especially with a cage it'll be of doubtful usefulness.
I'd skip the sways, you can tune with spring rates and save the points.
I'd do the brakes for sure, concentrate on making the car last the whole race before making it fast.
I'd do the dash, etc stripping, less weight is a good thing.
Are you sure you can change the intake manifold without going up a class? Basically changing the manifold means going to a Weber flanged ITB setup, which is +2 for the manifold, +2 for the TB, +1 for the airbox/filter arrangement, +7 for a standalone (or maybe +5 if you can use the Rtek 2.0, but I don't know if you could), +1 for non-OEM sensors, +2 for fuel system mods (15 points there). Doesn't seem to worthwhile to me for an extra couple HP.
I'd forget about the rear strut bar if I were you (well technically it's a shock tower brace, there's no struts back there). I had one, then removed it. Didn't really notice much if any difference. Especially with a cage it'll be of doubtful usefulness.
I'd skip the sways, you can tune with spring rates and save the points.
I'd do the brakes for sure, concentrate on making the car last the whole race before making it fast.
I'd do the dash, etc stripping, less weight is a good thing.
Are you sure you can change the intake manifold without going up a class? Basically changing the manifold means going to a Weber flanged ITB setup, which is +2 for the manifold, +2 for the TB, +1 for the airbox/filter arrangement, +7 for a standalone (or maybe +5 if you can use the Rtek 2.0, but I don't know if you could), +1 for non-OEM sensors, +2 for fuel system mods (15 points there). Doesn't seem to worthwhile to me for an extra couple HP.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,047
Likes: 3
From: NYC/T.O.
I just spoke to Warren @ Racing Brake, he's confirmed that the rears are too thin to be made vented......crap.
Still, I may just try this setup, see how it is, and if it fails, swich to a 5 lug big brake setup. On a good note, Warren says that he could re-drill the hubs to accept both 4 and 5 lug cars in the rear, so I may just do a full 5-lug conversion, use AWR's two-piece setup in the front, and Racing Brake's 4/5 x 114.3 mm setup for standard brakes in the rear. I'll test that setup out and see how it works. If it does work, I'll stick to using the aftermarket manifold and dash removal.
If I do have to take the points, I might as well look into getting big brakes and not having to worry about fade of any kind. Then, I'd be limited to just using the aftermarket manifold, but it could work.
I'm currently in talks with Warren to see where he wants to push development for 2nd generation products. You guys are welcome to chime in. If you know of anyone who may want to comment on brake products, please direct them here:
http://forums.racingbrake.com/showthread.php?t=213
Black91n/a, I know of someone making a custom manifold that bolts to the stock TB, and can be run on stock sensors and ECU. He's tested a prototype with decent gains over the stock system. I can't say who it is though.
Still, I may just try this setup, see how it is, and if it fails, swich to a 5 lug big brake setup. On a good note, Warren says that he could re-drill the hubs to accept both 4 and 5 lug cars in the rear, so I may just do a full 5-lug conversion, use AWR's two-piece setup in the front, and Racing Brake's 4/5 x 114.3 mm setup for standard brakes in the rear. I'll test that setup out and see how it works. If it does work, I'll stick to using the aftermarket manifold and dash removal.
If I do have to take the points, I might as well look into getting big brakes and not having to worry about fade of any kind. Then, I'd be limited to just using the aftermarket manifold, but it could work.
I'm currently in talks with Warren to see where he wants to push development for 2nd generation products. You guys are welcome to chime in. If you know of anyone who may want to comment on brake products, please direct them here:
http://forums.racingbrake.com/showthread.php?t=213
Black91n/a, I know of someone making a custom manifold that bolts to the stock TB, and can be run on stock sensors and ECU. He's tested a prototype with decent gains over the stock system. I can't say who it is though.
Last edited by Roen; Mar 7, 2008 at 12:16 PM.
It'd be cheaper (at least in the short term) to keep the stock setup. In the long run having better pad selection, longer pad life and cheaper pads (I think the generic racing caliper pad shapes tend to be a bit cheaper) it might make it worthwhile.
The only thing I see a market for is inexpensive 2 piece rotors. $900 or so for the AWR stuff is out of most peoples budget. Cut that price in half and you'd have all the 2nd Gen owners on this board buying them. Even get it down to just $150/corner and $50 for replacement rotors and you got a winner. Skip the drilled and slotted and just have a nice vented rotor with hat for the 4 pots and bigger single piston rear caliper.
I'd do the full brake swap from a 5 lug car including the brake booster. My car brakes sooo much harder with them i think you could make up for any points by braking later. another option would be to make a bracket to hold a larger caliper and use the same rotors.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,047
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From: NYC/T.O.
It depends on the pad, as long as I can get to the threshold, I'm not worried about losing braking time compared to the 4 piston brakes.
Have you tracked both setups? How was it different after you switched? Did you notice anything different 5 minutes in? 10 minutes in? 20 minutes in?
Have you tracked both setups? How was it different after you switched? Did you notice anything different 5 minutes in? 10 minutes in? 20 minutes in?
Never tracked but i lived in the country with alot of back roads, i'd go drive the **** out of my car for up to an hour at a time. I've gotten the rotors red hot. I also did a bunch of 100-0 braking just because it was the most extreme braking i'd ever felt and after about 5 stops from 100 i noticed some fade. But my single piston brakes would take noticiably longer to stop after one 100-0 run.
BTW. i did all this a few years ago when i was younger and crazier so don't bash me for driving to fast on public roads. besides it was out by farms so not really any people at all out there
BTW. i did all this a few years ago when i was younger and crazier so don't bash me for driving to fast on public roads. besides it was out by farms so not really any people at all out there
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I'll check it out.

