midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

About 4 months ago, i changed my clutch components( disc, pressure plate, and throw out bearing) with an exedy replacement kit so i noticed that the clutch however still felt the same, soft.

now i got around to swapping the master, the slave and i bought a stainless steel line from corksport.
i put them on and bleed the system like 6 times... and now it feels even softer!
i figured it would have improved somewhat?
and ideas?
could it be the pedal?

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

still stuck bump

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

How did you bleed it?

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

like the hanes manual says pump 3 times hold. unscrew the bleeder valve... tighten. pull the pedal out. i did it like 6 times.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Did you bench bleed the master?

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

as clokker said ^^^ master had to be bench bled first (sp?)
TwEaK

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Have your assistant apply pressure to the pedal.
Quickly crack and tighten the hardline fitting at the master cylinder. Repeat.

You'll want to have rags around the fitting to contain any escaping fluid.

If you're lucky, the air trapped in the MC will be moved into the line and can be bled out normally.

dkwasherexd

iTrader: (8)

just keep doing it. When I had to replace my slave and master cylinder, I almost used the whole bottle to get it perfect.

slpin

iTrader: (9)

did you get one of those shitty exedy replacement... off ebay or whatever?
they give soft pedal

want a real pedal feel?
buy a mazda plate

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

+1/\ Additionally, put a 1' piece of clear plastic tubing over the bleed outlet on the slave. Loop the tubing up and over, routing the other end of the tubing into a container to catch the overflow fluid. Use an 8mm box end wrench on the valve. I put the wrench on first, then the tubing.

Have a helper push and hold, you crack the valve; re-tighten, then have the helper release the clutch pedal. Helper may even have to lift the pedal because it may stay down. Repeat this until you see no bubbles in the fluid whatsoever.

Make sure to keep the fluid level above the lowest line. If it runs low you can suck in some air. Then you start over.

I just rebuilt my clutch master cylinder this weekend. It took *four* refills of the reservoir to get all the air out of the lines. When I replaced the clutch last year, I bought rebuild kits for the slave and master. I didn't have any success whatsoever with the slave rebuild. The cylinder bore was too corroded. The master was a different story. The bore was clean and bright with no wear marks. I've had it on for two days now, no leaks, perfect function. The pedal now feels great!

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

I did pretty much the same upgrade you did when I swapped motors. New MC, new slave, new disk & pp.

When I installed my new clutch(same thing, exedy replacement. I ordered through mazdatrix), the pedal felt soft. I thought it was odd also, but the car didn't have any problem chirping tires through gears so I thought nothing of it. I actually like it.

Just make sure its bled really good. I bench bled the MC, and bled the slave making sure the res was always full to the top. It took me about 1/2 a 32oz container to get it right.

midnightbluefc

iTrader: (19)

kool thanks guys im gonna do that to my master so just loosen the hardline on the master and then tighten it... cant wait for the 28th, 29th event at wsir balcony...

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I bought the Mazdatrix one as well. My six puck clutch requires less pedal effort. Big deal.

R.E.wing_FC3s

hows the take up/engagement? proly not the issue but when i put in new clutch parts i had to adjust the stroke of the rod that pushes on the clutch master. it woudnt go into gear at first. adjust under the dashboard. \

katkaroto

hmm... idk if you fixed it but i did it easily in my s4 turbo 2.

i thought it was the master that needed to change but it was teh slaves seals that failed and leaked. anywho, bought new seals for the master and replaced the slave.

after countless bleeding... watch some youtube clips and found an easy way to bleed. you'll need a syringe and brake fluid. open the slave bleeder valve and depress the clutch. open the master cylinder cap and place the syringe filled with brake fluid into the port at the bottom. depress the syringe filled brake fluid until you see no more air bubbles coming out at the slave bleeder.

i did this in one try afterward and no issues.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I actually just used one of the AmPro one-man brake bleeders from Advance Auto. It's just a bottle with a check valve in it. Then I did the traditional method one time (build pressure and release the bleeder) just for good measure.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

when I did mine I did it the traditional method by my self until the clutch actually started pushing back up (wouldn't stay down) and then I switched in a speed bleeder (http://speedbleeder.com/) and finished the rest of the way.

it worked fine and no help needed

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

ehmm ...

as far as I know, Exedy supply Mazda their clutch components ...

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

Mazdatrix = Mazda OEM parts. I got my Exedy from Mazdatrix. Only difference between Mazdatrix and Dealer clutch plate is about 50$.

When I went to them for a quote on the clutch for my 7 (I was originally going to have them do it) it was 140 for the clutch disk + labor. And that was a 15% mark down because my friend worked there.