So drive to Mazda and get a real test...

 

Not the Mazda Dealer here. I am still scared to take it in for the seatbelt recall!

(I used to work there so I can vouch for their ineptness.)

 

well that .... AND it cost 100 bucks just for the test ....


and god only know what all they could **** up just trying to get the spark plugs out ...

 

Test is extremely easy to do.

Get the car to operating temps

Pull the egi fuses so you don't spray gas or spark.

Then remove the trailing spark plug.

Put tester on.
Have friend crank car with pedal to the floor.
Hold the pressure release valve in to see the faces compressions.
3 even bumps == good and the bounce gives you a range of the compression(kinda hard seeing it bouce so quickly)

Then just let it do a total compression number by not pressing in the release valve.
There's your total per housing.

Repeat for the next housing.

Bam your done.

Running temp range plus pedal to the floor will give you the most accurate real time reading.

 

Got any vac readings?

 

not sure of the vac readings

 

Change the compressor tester gauge?


-Ted

 

i think he just got it. . . dustin, is there anyway to get it to davids house saturday morning? ill be there getting my car ready for some tuning. if you wanna swing by, well take a look at it.

paul

 

what the blank is going on here?

if you did a compression test with a gauge that doesnt hold pressure, its going to read way low because it doesnt have time to build up... i could go do mine right now with no peak-hold needle in the gauge and it would be 35-35-35. theres no way you can get an accurate face-to-face reading doing a compression test without one of the mazda compression testers.
so great, you verified that all the apex seals are in tact, now do a peak test (with the needle IN the comp tester) and tell us what happens

 

i did that originally .. i followed landers' website ...

i got the even pulses which means i have intact apex seals,
after i verified that i let the needle go (which allows it to build pressure) and it never got above approx 60-65psi ....

I had a weak battery, and the person that was cranking the car wasnt holding open the throttle at all ..
which is why i made this thread in the first place was to see if those two factors would cause lower than normal compression readings ...


i swapped out my old fuel rail with a s5 rail and changed the plugs

then blew all the oil/gas out of the plug holes and got it started ... so it runs for sure ... i didnt drive it though as it was getting late..

im going to redo the compression test once i get a better guage

 

those 3 even bumps u talk about, what readings am i looking for there 30/30/30 or like (85-100)/(85-100)/ (85-100), and total compression liek u said should be at least above 85 psi correct

also should there be some type of limit between the total compression between both rotors, like a certan percentage they should be within each other

thanks,

chris