Ya, good ground. No paint under it, no rust.

 

checked the pump voltage yet?

 

Voltages normal. Idk man. Seriously about to just give up and drive it like this.

 

well it sounds like a serious pump volume issue, i'd still check the pressure if possible.

next thing that comes to mind is shorting out TPS wiring, maybe the wires got pinched on the engine somewhere. after that would be injector grounding through the ECU and the supply voltage through the black/yellow wires to the injectors.

you can add additional grounds to the block where the injector ground is, or to the other end at the ECU. you can monitor the black/yellow circuit by finding something accessible on the engine with that same power feed via the factory wiring diagram. you can also check the TPS voltages with your Rtek i believe with an oscilloscope reading to see if it is spiking or reading abnormally glitchy. while you are at that i would also draw up an o-scope reading of the AFM reading. you have a handy diagnostic tool with the Rtek 2.x so you should be using it.

another problem is swapped engines using the stock n/a engine harness on a turbo ECU, there is a power steering sensor wire that feeds into the knock circuit that will cause all sorts of strangeness, but generally this is only an issue while turning and also generally only affects ignition timing and not fuel.

all of that failing to come up with any result it may be time for a new engine harness and flush the injectors(unless you have the time to test the whole harness and cross continuity check all wires which results in a few thousand ohm checks and is rather time consuming, frayed wires rubbing together in a harness can be a nightmare to track down).

 

The injector ground is located on top of the engine. Is the above comment in response to the ground you checked or some other ground?

 

So i just read that you changed the fuel filter BEFORE you pulled the pump and it ate the sock. Is it possible the fuel filter could be clogged with said sock, or any other debris that got through?

 

Well did some shade tree mechanic testing yesterday.. Put a pair of vice grips on the return line, not completely pintched. But enough to make some good back pressure. Just that cured about 80% of the issue. Reason I decided to go this route was because I removed the vaccuum line on the fpr, which I imagined would cause high psi all the time. No change. What I did notice though is that the vac nipple on the fpr had a drip of fuel. Bad diaphragm. So, now I have a tomie fpr on the way. We'll see how it does

 

Ok... Sooo for anyone that was wondering wtf.. I am stupid. I openly and humbly admit it. The issue, and only issue(s) was that I put injector harnesses in the wrong spots.. I can't remember which ones I had where. But the contributing factor was looking at the wrong diagram in the fsm. Runs clean and perfect now. No dead zone. No backfire no stststudder
Lessons learned:
Double check work.
Trust advice of others
Double check instructions
Repeat until desired results

To all those that offered help and advice. Thank you so much.

-REtard

 

Congrats on getting it figured out

 

I did the same thing on my first swap.
Funny the guy next door was a War Vet and when I'd start the car it would Backfire a big Cannon BOOOOOMM..through the Corksport single..lol!
I betcha I took him back a couple years!