Replaced the t-stat, almost over heated!
#1
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Replaced the t-stat, almost over heated!
88 turbo ii completely stock, 75k miles, newer and maintained almost everything
I am trying to learn to do maintenance and install upgrades on my own, instead of having to pay a dealer to do everything.
I've had high temps on the highway for a while, but couldn't pinpoint the slight leak - somewhere bottom passenger side of radiator. Ordered a new t- stat and lower coolant hose. Last night drained the coolant, replaced the t-stat and hose, then refilled it (whilst straining) into the radiator, Not the filler cap (accidentally).
Now I got coolant leaking from the thermostat housing area, and apparently no flow because I went from 0 to half way on my temp gauge in about 5 minutes from turning it on.
Short of taking it to the dealer, what can i do?
I am trying to learn to do maintenance and install upgrades on my own, instead of having to pay a dealer to do everything.
I've had high temps on the highway for a while, but couldn't pinpoint the slight leak - somewhere bottom passenger side of radiator. Ordered a new t- stat and lower coolant hose. Last night drained the coolant, replaced the t-stat and hose, then refilled it (whilst straining) into the radiator, Not the filler cap (accidentally).
Now I got coolant leaking from the thermostat housing area, and apparently no flow because I went from 0 to half way on my temp gauge in about 5 minutes from turning it on.
Short of taking it to the dealer, what can i do?
#2
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the S4 thermostat neck is kinda bulletproof, so if it's leaking then the thermostat may not be in its recess and is jammed up in the housing.
but the engine should not be warming up to half in 5 minutes unless you have a massive air pocket in the engine. did you put in an OEM thermostat or an aftermarket without a jiggle pin? this helps to bleed air out of the system.
but the engine should not be warming up to half in 5 minutes unless you have a massive air pocket in the engine. did you put in an OEM thermostat or an aftermarket without a jiggle pin? this helps to bleed air out of the system.
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I bought an OEM replacement. However, the gasket fits a little big and the actual thermostat looked different than the one I took out. =/
Do I need to drain all the coolant to just work on the t-stat or can I just do with losing a little when I take off that top rad hose?
Do I need to drain all the coolant to just work on the t-stat or can I just do with losing a little when I take off that top rad hose?
the S4 thermostat neck is kinda bulletproof, so if it's leaking then the thermostat may not be in its recess and is jammed up in the housing.
but the engine should not be warming up to half in 5 minutes unless you have a massive air pocket in the engine. did you put in an OEM thermostat or an aftermarket without a jiggle pin? this helps to bleed air out of the system.
but the engine should not be warming up to half in 5 minutes unless you have a massive air pocket in the engine. did you put in an OEM thermostat or an aftermarket without a jiggle pin? this helps to bleed air out of the system.
#4
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You can drain it low enough to pull it out. It sounds like you have a huge air pocket in the system.
Buy one of these: Lisle 24610 Spill Free Funnel - Walmart.com
The funnel allows you to have the coolant level higher than the engine to help get air bubles out. Run the engine with the funnel on until both the upper and lower radiator hoses are up to temp and have the heater on full hot while warming it up. This allows the coolant to purge all the air out. Takes anbout 15 minutes. Its ok to rev the engine a little (2000rpm) to help work the bubbles out.
Buy one of these: Lisle 24610 Spill Free Funnel - Walmart.com
The funnel allows you to have the coolant level higher than the engine to help get air bubles out. Run the engine with the funnel on until both the upper and lower radiator hoses are up to temp and have the heater on full hot while warming it up. This allows the coolant to purge all the air out. Takes anbout 15 minutes. Its ok to rev the engine a little (2000rpm) to help work the bubbles out.
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Thanks i will try that out. Maybe an auto parts store has one...
You can drain it low enough to pull it out. It sounds like you have a huge air pocket in the system.
Buy one of these: Lisle 24610 Spill Free Funnel - Walmart.com
The funnel allows you to have the coolant level higher than the engine to help get air bubles out. Run the engine with the funnel on until both the upper and lower radiator hoses are up to temp and have the heater on full hot while warming it up. This allows the coolant to purge all the air out. Takes anbout 15 minutes. Its ok to rev the engine a little (2000rpm) to help work the bubbles out.
Buy one of these: Lisle 24610 Spill Free Funnel - Walmart.com
The funnel allows you to have the coolant level higher than the engine to help get air bubles out. Run the engine with the funnel on until both the upper and lower radiator hoses are up to temp and have the heater on full hot while warming it up. This allows the coolant to purge all the air out. Takes anbout 15 minutes. Its ok to rev the engine a little (2000rpm) to help work the bubbles out.
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#13
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Yeah. However, it was hardly staying in its recess. Itd want to slide down before I could put the cover back on so I am gonna take off the thing and check if out. Then I'll try to use the Bottle method listed above since I didn't make it to Sears before they closed.
Update shortly...
Update shortly...
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While filling the coolant, one way to help eliminate air pockets is to fill up to the level of the cap, then put your hand over it. Pump the lower rad hose with your other hand. One you remove the hand covering the fill area, you will find the level is lower. Repeat until the car won't take any more coolant.
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I bought it from a parts store online... OEM part number but I can't find my receipt... Included is pic. On the left is the old TSTAT. Also, cleaning out the recess in the t stat housing and Will re-use old gasket cause new one started melting or something.
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So I put the Old t stat back on, parked on an incline, took off the rad cap, turned on the car and set heater to max.
Within 7 mins have steam pouring out of rad like crazy, temp is steady at half on the gauge. Cold air from vents only (where's the heat?)
After 15 mins total, turn off the car. Rad still has steam coming up and can hear the liquid boiling inside of the rad.
What the heck is going on?
Within 7 mins have steam pouring out of rad like crazy, temp is steady at half on the gauge. Cold air from vents only (where's the heat?)
After 15 mins total, turn off the car. Rad still has steam coming up and can hear the liquid boiling inside of the rad.
What the heck is going on?
Last edited by musker; 12-07-15 at 01:41 AM.