Slight fuel problem, wont start
#1
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Slight fuel problem, wont start
well I just picked up another 2nd gen and if you leave it sit for a while it will turn over and fire up,
but it dies shortly after.
then if you turn it over again it wont start, I am pretty sure its dumping to much fuel
the car has new spark plugs, plug wires,and I changed the crank trigger dizzy
still no luck
I am thinking of swapping out the o2 sensor and checking the coil packs
I know there are several adjustments for the fuel, should I play with these?
what is the most common thing in a situation like this?
I assume the engine still has good compression, or good enough, its an automatic and it will brake torque. thats more then my last one did and it ran just fine.
the rex is a 89 GTU
any help is greatly apriciated
thanks
but it dies shortly after.
then if you turn it over again it wont start, I am pretty sure its dumping to much fuel
the car has new spark plugs, plug wires,and I changed the crank trigger dizzy
still no luck
I am thinking of swapping out the o2 sensor and checking the coil packs
I know there are several adjustments for the fuel, should I play with these?
what is the most common thing in a situation like this?
I assume the engine still has good compression, or good enough, its an automatic and it will brake torque. thats more then my last one did and it ran just fine.
the rex is a 89 GTU
any help is greatly apriciated
thanks
#2
Keep Right Except to Pass
It sounds like you need to get the idle up or fix the out-of-wack component causing it to not fast-idle. This is on cold startup correct? I would assume flooding as the reason it won't restart.
#3
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Originally posted by HeffBoost
It sounds like you need to get the idle up or fix the out-of-wack component causing it to not fast-idle. This is on cold startup correct? I would assume flooding as the reason it won't restart.
It sounds like you need to get the idle up or fix the out-of-wack component causing it to not fast-idle. This is on cold startup correct? I would assume flooding as the reason it won't restart.
its just the initial startup, what about the idle control on the throttle body and the air/fuel ratio
also I remeber there was another adjustment down by the airbox on my 87 but not on this 89
I am somewhat lost on 2nd gens
#4
Keep Right Except to Pass
Are you getting a check engine light? The screw on the top of the TB is the main idle adj.. The R/L pot on the shock tower is for idle mixture. The one on the airbox(edit - S4, I'm not sure about the s5 afm) is a bypass and I wouldn't touch that one if I were you.
Last edited by HeffBoost; 03-16-03 at 07:35 AM.
#5
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Originally posted by HeffBoost
Are you getting a check engine light? The screw on the top of the TB is the main idle adj.. The R/L pot on the shock tower is for idle mixture. The one on the airbox(edit - S4, I'm not sure about the s5 afm) is a bypass and I wouldn't touch that one if I were you.
Are you getting a check engine light? The screw on the top of the TB is the main idle adj.. The R/L pot on the shock tower is for idle mixture. The one on the airbox(edit - S4, I'm not sure about the s5 afm) is a bypass and I wouldn't touch that one if I were you.
but its not there on my 89?
maybe its just not in the same spot.
I will try the tb adjustment but with out the little dual leds its kinda a shot in the dark, plus i could be playing with something thats not even the problem.
any more ideas?
thanks
#6
Engine, Not Motor
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Do NOT adjust anything. There is another problem, and those adjustments don't spontainously go out of wack. However, if the previous owner screwed with it...
Have you done a compression test? Are you running rich (black, greasy plugs, black smoke, fuel smell)? Intake leaks? They would cause the car to start up and run fine (car runs rich on cold start) but after it warmed up and leans out it would die...BAC valve good?
If the car has been sitting, stuck or badly leaking injectors are a good possibility.
But don't go any further until you verify compression.
Have you done a compression test? Are you running rich (black, greasy plugs, black smoke, fuel smell)? Intake leaks? They would cause the car to start up and run fine (car runs rich on cold start) but after it warmed up and leans out it would die...BAC valve good?
If the car has been sitting, stuck or badly leaking injectors are a good possibility.
But don't go any further until you verify compression.
#7
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Aaron Cake
Do NOT adjust anything. There is another problem, and those adjustments don't spontainously go out of wack. However, if the previous owner screwed with it...
Have you done a compression test? Are you running rich (black, greasy plugs, black smoke, fuel smell)? Intake leaks? They would cause the car to start up and run fine (car runs rich on cold start) but after it warmed up and leans out it would die...BAC valve good?
If the car has been sitting, stuck or badly leaking injectors are a good possibility.
But don't go any further until you verify compression.
Do NOT adjust anything. There is another problem, and those adjustments don't spontainously go out of wack. However, if the previous owner screwed with it...
Have you done a compression test? Are you running rich (black, greasy plugs, black smoke, fuel smell)? Intake leaks? They would cause the car to start up and run fine (car runs rich on cold start) but after it warmed up and leans out it would die...BAC valve good?
If the car has been sitting, stuck or badly leaking injectors are a good possibility.
But don't go any further until you verify compression.
I turned them a couple turns one way and back the other, then put them back where they were.
there isnt any black smoke that I see.
I do smell heavy fuel
I removed the plugs several times and they are pretty clean.
the o2 sensor also looks new.
what is the bac?
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#8
Engine, Not Motor
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Search for info on the BAC (bypass air control valve). You can't "assume" compression is good. Test it properly so you don't spin your wheels on an engine that could be damaged internally.
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