classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I broke down in the city and am trying to swap out a whole assembly to save bleeding it...

I am working on my 86 N/A base model beater - the slave blew out.

I removed an entire assembly (master, line, flex line, slave) from an S5 TII parts car - but the bolts positions for the TII slave are in the wrong spot. Damn

I need to know if the difference in slaves is S4 to S5 or N/A to TII, or both...since I am going to have to arrange a ride back now - I'd only like to make this trip once more.

Thanks.

liv

your still going to have to bleed it eather way so I don't know what you mean by save bleeding it.

I wouldnt take these components out of a parts car eather considering that this is a very very common problem in our cars and your goign to end up having to replace them soon if not immediatly in most cases

I'm not aware of the bolt pattern being any different though the autoparts store here only sells one of them for our cars and it fits most of the other mazdas to so maybe you were trying to put it on wrong.



should look like that

I am assuming your talking about the clutch you wernt being very specific though

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

how am I going to have to bleed it? i never cracked the system...read my post - I TOOK THE WHOLE THING OFF

the parts car this car came off of has 109,000kms and a brand new slave and stainless line.

I only have to limp the thing home and I am quite sure that the system is capable of that.

I asked if the difference between slave cylinders is N/A to TII - S4 to S5 or both, not whether you think I should be doing the swap with a used part.

Please if you don't have an answer don't post.

rx7b13

the slave cylinders are different between the n/a and the t2. the t2 bolts obviously are different your figured that out. but also the t2 slave cylinder is shorter therefore it wont work.

when my slave cylinder went out idrove the car with no clutch. everytime you shift you have to rev match but you can still drive the car. when you start you have to put it in gear and still push on the clutch but when you start your car your car will lurch forward but it will start and then your on your way home

liv

yea sorry didn't know there was a difference

but your goign to have to get all the air out of the system that you put in when you took it all apart and in order to do that you have to bleed it

rx7b13

yup. if disconnect a line you have to bleed no questions asked. are you 100% sure its the slave not the clutch master

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

its the slave - no doubt, the slave was leaking SLIGHTLY but took a **** on me last night

I am swapping - once again - the WHOLE ASSEMBLY, master, line, flex line, and slave WITHOUT DISCONNECTING any lines.....so no bleeding is necessary

but thanks for the response - your saying that S4 and S5 N/A are the same? the only difference is whether or not its turbo?

anyone else on this before I go home and raid a 2nd parts car?

liv

dude I don't wana nag but I'm telling you your going to have to bleed no matter what and if your pedal is still just sticking to the floor it can just as easily be that it isnt bled properly to the cylinder is bad

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

OK...

for the last time AS UNRELATED AS THIS IS TO MY QUESTION there is no bleding required. I removed the entire assembly, unbolted the master off the firewall, the bracket off the fire wall, and the slave off the tranny with tape on it to secure the plunger. The system was never cracked - and it will not require bleeding once installed.

But it was the wrong one so its irrelavent.

But I answered my question today and for anyone in the future searching:


S4 and S5 N/A slaves have the same bolts locations to the tranny
S4 and S5 TII Slaves have the same bolts locations to the tranny

SexInDaRex

you will still have to bleed the system to make sure it is all correct on your car. Why don't you want to bleed? It is so o simple anyway. NO rocket science.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

oh my god.

OK what is so hard to understand about this? the system was on another car and perfectly functional and bled.

I had to change this all on the side of the road so I wanted to keep it as simple as possible.

I removed the master from the fire wall and everything from there on down to the slave. AND THE SYSTEM WAS NEVER CRACKED the re was no fluid lost and I retianed the piston in the slave with tape - for the last ******* time THERE IS NO BLEEDING REQUIRED

and this is pointless to keep posting about because it is not related to my quesiton at all - and my question was answered already so why are you still harping on this moot bleeding issue that you quite obviously do not understand?

SexInDaRex

bleeding is in your future one way or another

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

holy f*$%.....

for your information I fixed it at the woman's apartment on the side of the road with an entire other system and didn't bleed it, it was not required.

is this THAT hard to understand?