2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

single to 4-piston brake conversion

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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 12:16 AM
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single to 4-piston brake conversion

I am swaping my front single-piston brakes out for 4-piston brakes on my 91 fc.
What parts do I need? I am getting the brakes from a junkyard.
my list so for consist of:
-Calipers
-Rotors[getting new ones]
-Lines[getting new ones]

do I need anything else?
any advice, suggestions, tips?

thanks
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 12:30 AM
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make sure you get the hardlines that come with the 4 piston calipers. get new pads and new fluid so you can bleed it.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 12:53 AM
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The brake booster on the 4 piston cars is physically larger. You need it too. Yes your brakes will work without swapping them but you will not have near the stopping power. Been there, done that.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 01:14 AM
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Jesus.. not another one of these posts.. Did you search? No... you didn't.

Click the FC Maintenance link in my sig... .NOW.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by micaheli
Jesus.. not another one of these posts.. Did you search? No... you didn't.

Click the FC Maintenance link in my sig... .NOW.
I tried searching but I was not able to find anything detailed.
Thanks for the link!
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by micaheli
Jesus.. not another one of these posts.. Did you search? No... you didn't.

Click the FC Maintenance link in my sig... .NOW.
You didn't put up your sig... dork.

Here's the link he's talking about though.

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/FC_Maintenance
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rotarygod
The brake booster on the 4 piston cars is physically larger. You need it too. Yes your brakes will work without swapping them but you will not have near the stopping power. Been there, done that.
I just want to confirm something....the M/C is still 7/8" bore, but the booster is larger? I have a GXL M/C and booster sitting in my garage, but had decided not to use it when I do the swap into my '89 GTU since the M/C bore was the same. If the booster is larger I'll go ahead and swap it.

-chris
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
You didn't put up your sig... dork.

Here's the link he's talking about though.

http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/FC_Maintenance
WTF.. Serious? My sig doesn't show up? Thats messed up! I have one saved..............

Okay.. now I'm confused. I wonder if a mod gave it the axe. Could have been all of the hardcore **** I had in it....... (just kidding).
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by micaheli
WTF.. Serious? My sig doesn't show up? Thats messed up! I have one saved..............

Okay.. now I'm confused. I wonder if a mod gave it the axe. Could have been all of the hardcore **** I had in it....... (just kidding).
hahah yeah your sig didnt show up, however I was smart enough to look it up in your public profile
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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Does it show up now? For the life of me I can't figure out how to make it show up.... wtf.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by micaheli
WTF.. Serious? My sig doesn't show up? Thats messed up! I have one saved..............

Okay.. now I'm confused. I wonder if a mod gave it the axe. Could have been all of the hardcore **** I had in it....... (just kidding).
did you select the show signature box when you posted?
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by papiogxl
did you select the show signature box when you posted?
Isn't there a global option to have it always displayed? And no.... like a complete idiot, I didn't check that damn box...

You know. I run web servers, develop web sites, I even host a couple of these forums.. you'd think I'd be able to figure this **** out.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 02:17 PM
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F-ing signature..... There.. I checked the damn box... Everybody point and laugh.

I hate Vbulletin. I always new newbb or equiv.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 02:23 PM
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^^^lol^^^
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 02:24 PM
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Well. for the admins...... I think they need to change the signature to the default option. If somebody HAS a sig entered... it should automatically go in... like an email type thing. If they don't want their sig defaulted, delete your sig.... simple as that. Anyways.. just a suggestion.
Here's directions to do that.

Go into the Admin Control Panel, select Edit Templates, select New Posting Templates. The two templates you need to edit are newreply and newthread. Look for the code shown below and change $signaturechecked to $signatureunchecked. You may want to do the same with the private messaging templates.

$disablesmiliesoption
<br><input type="checkbox" name="signature" value="yes" $signatureunchecked> <b>Show Signature:</b> include your profile signature. Only registered users may have signatures.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 02:24 PM
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When you make a new thread it's automatically checked. When you reply it's not.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 07:56 PM
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When getting calipers from a junkyard car it's a really good idea to rebuild them. It doesn't cost a lot and can save you a lot of hassle down the road. The single piston brake lines work fine if you don't have the hardline. You need different pads and different hardware than the single piston brakes. The rotors are the same. The brake booster and MC are the SAME on ALL the NA's, only the TII's got the larger MC and more powerful booster. I find the smaller MC and booster setup works just fine, provides decent feel and good stopping power. Enough to outbrake BMW's and Porsches at the track.
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 08:17 PM
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I thought the only difference between the turbo MC and booster was because the turbo has ABS, and needs the extra vacuum supply for the brakes because it's a boosted engine?

Does it actually have different amounts of brake firmness or clamping power, versus running the four-pots with the single-pot hydraulics?

Also, does the turbo have a different brake balance ratio, if it has a different proportioning balance?
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Old Jan 19, 2007 | 09:49 PM
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The FSM doesn't differentiate between TII and NA proportionning valves. The MC and booster difference is that the TII has a slightly larger diameter MC, and a slightly more powerful booster.

The larger MC will give a firmer pedal, but the stronger booster will soften it, so it's probably about the same, but with slightly less pedal travel.
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 10:10 PM
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i am correct in assuming the rotors for the 4 pots are all vented? front and rear?
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 10:16 PM
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You would be correct in that assumption.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 03:40 AM
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RXTASY's 4- to 5-lug conversion writeup: http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=51&co=1&vi=1
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 11:22 AM
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if you leave your N/A master cylinder and keep the hardlines that run into the fender well youll need also to get the rubber lines from the 91. The rubber lines are WAY shorter and they have a female to female connections...where the single pistons have a female to male connection. i just finished a 4pot conversion and i used racing beat stainless steel lines and it bolted right up.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 1POINT3
if you leave your N/A master cylinder and keep the hardlines that run into the fender well youll need also to get the rubber lines from the 91. The rubber lines are WAY shorter and they have a female to female connections...where the single pistons have a female to male connection. i just finished a 4pot conversion and i used racing beat stainless steel lines and it bolted right up.
His car is a 91.. He would ONLY have to swap the front calipers, rear calipers, rear disks, rear hub assy (I think).. The rubber lines should swap over no prob. But it would be a good time to get braided!

I have a 4-pot 91, and a single pot 91 in my garage. Those are the only differences. The booster, master cyl, proportioning valve, hard lines, and front rotors are the same.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 08:46 PM
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The difference he's talking about is that the 4 pot calipers have a hardline between the caliper and strut, with a softline between the strut and the body. You can use single piston calipse softlines if you don't use the strut to caliper hardline. It works just fine, I know from first hand epxeriance.
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