signs of a soon to be bad coolant seals? pics...
10-25-12, 09:57 AM
#4
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System is under vacuum when it collapses, it should suck in coolant from the overflow tank, that's why it's there. Check rad cap, line to overflow tank etc. They system will expand and contact with temp. Should be a pretty simple fix.
10-25-12, 10:49 AM
#6
Does not over heat... Its not harder to start once warm. But once the car is cold again & i release that the rad cap. Only coolant i believe i lose is from the pressure of my hose. I can put about 1/3 coolant that in a 8oz. Water bottle. Maybe my overflow lines are clogg
10-25-12, 03:02 PM
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Check where the end of your overflow line is located. It may be too close to the bottom of the overflow tank, and sticking to the bottom when the system starts to cool down.
When the hose is sucked in, pull the hose out of the overflow tank. If it doesn't suck air, it should lead you to where the problem is.
When the hose is sucked in, pull the hose out of the overflow tank. If it doesn't suck air, it should lead you to where the problem is.
10-26-12, 08:02 AM
#13
Before going to wok again. My coolant was suck-in not as much... I believe, it's throwing some back into my overflow because my overflow coolant was right at max level line. (yellow coolant) (green coolant inside my radiator) was past my max level by only little.. Should i get a flush?
10-26-12, 10:22 AM
#14
Clean out the nipple where overflow hose connects to the radiator.
The cap on the overflow tank can also get clogged.
Lastly the rad cap seal can swell over its lifetime to block the port.
If your hose is collapsing, the system is sealed, but not allowing pressure to equalize after cooling down. It normally equalizes through the overflow system.
The cap on the overflow tank can also get clogged.
Lastly the rad cap seal can swell over its lifetime to block the port.
If your hose is collapsing, the system is sealed, but not allowing pressure to equalize after cooling down. It normally equalizes through the overflow system.
10-26-12, 02:31 PM
#15
Ok, ill check once i get home. But today riding to work. I heard a scratching nosie coming from my engine... Great that only means my rotors are scratching my ******* housings!!!!!! Omfg. Please tell thats not the case! I think my omp is failing..
10-26-12, 04:45 PM
#16
Update: scratch noise was a slightly loose alternator belt..... Now waiting for her to cool down agian, gonna clean my entire overflow hose to radiator. Then if continues as i assume to still have a collapse coolant hose once cold temps. I'll buy a new rad cap but mines looks fairly new.
10-26-12, 05:09 PM
#18
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I have that electric fan/koyo rad. as well... that thing cools like crazy! Judging by the MAF it's an s5 i think? Just a thought here with your situation..... when you add coolant to the system are you putting it in at the "highest" point? I know on my s4 TII i add it in the spot on top of the water pump housing, but I think an s5 is different and it has the spot coming off the front of the radiator. I always add coolant while the engine is running and when I know the thermostat is open, you can usually tell this by the coolant flow. This enables you to make sure you have any air pockets out of the system. Coolant seal failure will usually make your car smoke and you can either get oil in with coolant or visa versa. There's usually signs of this happening.
10-26-12, 06:11 PM
#19
I have that electric fan/koyo rad. as well... that thing cools like crazy! Judging by the MAF it's an s5 i think? Just a thought here with your situation..... when you add coolant to the system are you putting it in at the "highest" point? I know on my s4 TII i add it in the spot on top of the water pump housing, but I think an s5 is different and it has the spot coming off the front of the radiator. I always add coolant while the engine is running and when I know the thermostat is open, you can usually tell this by the coolant flow. This enables you to make sure you have any air pockets out of the system. Coolant seal failure will usually make your car smoke and you can either get oil in with coolant or visa versa. There's usually signs of this happening.
10-28-12, 06:31 AM
#21
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I had the same thing happen to my old NA S4. Turned out my new cap was deffective and was covering the vent line. Although it looked OK when I pulled the cap off and looked at it. Replaced the cap and everything went back to normal.
10-28-12, 03:23 PM
#24
OEM last the longest. you can run the cheaper auto parts store caps but get the 16psi that are rated for the FD, the 13psi caps lose tension and don't even hold 13psi for very long.
before anything else, blow through the hose from the radiator to overflow tank and make sure it flows freely and the port at the radiator isn't plugged up with debris. and don't swallow any antifreeze.
before anything else, blow through the hose from the radiator to overflow tank and make sure it flows freely and the port at the radiator isn't plugged up with debris. and don't swallow any antifreeze.
10-28-12, 03:32 PM
#25
OEM last the longest. you can run the cheaper auto parts store caps but get the 16psi that are rated for the FD, the 13psi caps lose tension and don't even hold 13psi for very long.
before anything else, blow through the hose from the radiator to overflow tank and make sure it flows freely and the port at the radiator isn't plugged up with debris. and don't swallow any antifreeze.
before anything else, blow through the hose from the radiator to overflow tank and make sure it flows freely and the port at the radiator isn't plugged up with debris. and don't swallow any antifreeze.