i honestly dont see what is wrong with the megasquirt???
the only "hack job" on my stock harness is the SAFC which is spliced inot the harness and will take minutes to take out....
i already mentioned the engine was in good condition.....
why must i repeat myself??
im not a 15 year lying kid...if it was a bad motor i would say it.....
if you dont like the megasquirt then i guess we are different people....no reason to smack down upon it just because you dont use it....
and im getting a proper standalone first...im looking for suggestions after this is applied

 

Rtek = hacked stock ECU.

Nothing at all wrong with the Megasquirt. It's a great choice as long as you are capable of making it work. I've put Megasquirts on a bunch of differnet pistoon vehicles, and am working on a few RX-7s now. One is running, driving and making great power. The other is still being put together.

I'm not sure what you are referring to unless it's not in reply to my post?

I wouldn't suggest getting the Plug and Play Megsaquirt. Start fresh and build a new harness. No point running a standalone on a 22 year old stock harness.

There are many turbo choices. THe BNR hybrid is a capable unit, as are many variations of the TO4 (60-1 being popular at the moment). If you want to spend some money, the GT35R is another choice...You'll probably be making or buying a manifold as there aren't any real choices on the stock manifold except for the BNR.

You'll need a real intercooler as well. For long FMIC piping runs, 2" is a little small. Lots of cores on eBay cheaply, then you can fab up the pipe as needed.

720CC/1000CC is likely fine, with enough fuel pump to support it.

 

yeah i was referring to your post....
i seen you reply and got upset.....my harness is in great shape.....they are not burnt, hard or missing anything...thats why id like to go with a megasquirt.....
i will def. look into other choices though.....i wouldnt mind a great project (re-wiring my car) over the winter to set it up properly.......

 

most your harness will go in the trash during the megasquirt install since you will be using a whole new ECU harness.
unless you use that plug in play one. (im more partial to being able to setup everything myself though)

 

see now that its being beaten into my brain...it would be noce to KNOW that since I did it..i wouldnt have to worry about shorts or somthing spliced or missing......
**** i dont know......
that means more money for the wires too

 

If you think in terms of money, then nothing ever goes well...

How much does wire cost, seriously? There are Megasquirt universal harnesses available for well under $50. A spool of wire at the electronics store is $10.

The stock harneses corrode from the inside out. Start cutting the wires and you quickly find that the copper has turned green and is well on it's way to failing...They are 20 years old, after all...

 

Stand-alone is the easiest way to keep your car reliable and make big numbers no matter how you change your setup. Anyone with EMS will tell you to get it. I paid 1300 bucks shipped for my e6x system with non-terminated harness, fuse box, relays, and 3 bar map sensor. EMS might cost alot... but you're never gonna have to upgrade it... almost.

 

I paid less than $500 for my megasquirt and LC-1 wideband, it was well worth it even on a pretty muvh stock NA.

 

the only decent piggyback system there is out there, would be the Emanage Blue/Gold or Ultimate. The blue you can get for 200ish and the ulti for 400.

 

stock FC coils can handle more like 450+hp. FD guys use FC coils as an upgrade sometimes. They rock, but a CDI box on the leading makes them even better.

As for water injection, you can do it super cheap if you want. Get a sealed container w/ a input line for boost to pressurize this tank, and have another line w/ a low pressure pump (like 2psi or so) going into the intake, and a solenoid and boost switch to turn the pump/solenoid on at a few psi and the boost will pressurize the tank, and push that much water through the line
so 2psi from the pump, plus whatever boost you're running. It's a very cheap progressive setup. I would think that you would need a one way valve on both ends (the pressurizing line and the water injection line) and just play w/ the jet sizes.

I'm going w/ a aquamist kit which are pretty nice but very spendy thanks to bush ******* up our exchange rate.

And I agree w/ getting a standalone. hacked stock ecus are super hokey. Fix it before you blow up your motor.

-Ben Martin

 

guess what!!!
tonite i was showing a friend what it had and BOOM shes toast!!!!
i appologize for what i said (didnt mean to be a ***!!!!)!
it was @ 11.5 when it went?
its popped!!!!

rough idle.....no power.....no compression test but im sure its blown..i was boosting maybe 10LBS> when all of the sudden i just lost power..no pop...no flame...i was @ around 110MPH and it just wouldnt boost anymore......i could barley get it in my driveway

sorry guys!!!!
so much for the goos motor
guess its time for a rebuild or parting it out
i dont know which yet...
i dont want to part with the 7 or rotary but you gotta do what ya gotta do

i gues time will tell

sorry for being a prix.

 

get another motor and a megasquirt! ****, a decent s4 n/a block should be pretty dirt cheap. you wont be happy when you rebuild it as itll have really messed its pants w/ that boost. on the other hand a decent original n/a motor might do the trick, if you can find one w/o 100k+ miles......my s4 t2 had 130k miles and wouldve gone for way longer if i hadnt of modded it w/ dp and cone filter w/ no FCD. it last like that for 6 months of redlining it every day, and 6mos before that of beign bone stock and redlined every day.
dont give up whatever you do.
the high compression turbos work, just s-afc's and hacked up stock ecu's really suck!

 

im so pissed right now!!!
i looked at the wideband and it was 11.5 when i felt the power loss....
no back fire....no nothin...just loss of power...i was only boosting 10PSI?
ive hit harder than that MNY other times?
i guess it just wanted to go?
im not sure what i want to do now.....
i barleyt made it up my driveway tonite....it starts OK but barley holds an idle...
@ idle the wideband read 16:1 !
i have a feeling it was on 1 rotor.....
compression test will know i guess.........
BUT...i already know whats in store......


thanks for the encouragement htough

 

sure you didnt lose an injector through a short of corrosion? maybe its running on one rotor? can you hear apex seals dinkin around?

 

i couldnt hear anything inside the motor really......
after this happened i went out and got DRUNK because i was so pissed...thats when i posted this last nite (when i was drunk)....LOL
ima go out soon and see whats up.....i havent done a compression check or anything yet....it was just to dark to examine it......