if anyone doesnt know, im running a 6 port turbo (turbo'ed N/A) and im GUESSING im really close to 300 WHP using a aiReasrch TO4B turbo (14LBS. of boost). i could be wrong with the power as i never had it dyno'ed.....
im currently using a Rtek 1.7 and 550 / 720 injectors......
stock drivetrain and the rest will be in my SIG.
what i was wondering is what could i shoot for if i went with the next batch of the megasquirt plug-n-play coming out and bigger injectors.....
im not to hard on launching but i plan on upgrading this as well (stock drivetrain)
also, i am in the process of getting a bigger fuel pump.....
this is all on stock ports with an origanal motor that has 56K on it and GREAT compression.....
my question's are:
what could be a realistic turbo i could get,
what size injectors? im thinkin 720/1,000?

i really dont want it to last a month and im kind of concerned that the motor being stock ports is at its limit now of being safe?
do I dare go for more power?

i dont have set power range but i KNOW i want it past 350WHP and closer to 400...

is this all crazy talk?

i know tuning is everything and thats why i want to upgrade to a megasquirt...
my wire harness is in great shape so i se no need in ripping it out to put in a different standalone....

what do you people think?
what i do have sitting in my garage for this upgrade is:
a TB elbow(higgi elbow)

im currently researching for:
new IC piping (2.5), a new intercooler and a bigger radiator

 

Hey,
I dont think your close to 300 my reasoning for this is your running the Stock IC as a FMIC and that will not cool a 14psi charge of boost properly, as it should. Also running the stock pump for 550/720 isnt the safest thing to be doing. I been searching/researching and 550/720 combo for injectors will probably get you to 240-260rwhp. I am having somewhat of the same issue i am running 550/720 with a walbro and i am thinking to go 550 primaries and 1000cc secondaries or 720 primaries (oh god idle is gonna be tough to get sorted) and 1000/1200cc secondaries.

What i would say is... get your fuel system setup for the higher horsepower. That to me, means braided lines, bigger injectors, a FPR and properly setup lines. Then get your motor ported, thats a BIG one. I went with a monster street port and MAN that makes a HUGE difference, i would recommend going with a true turbo motor then going with a N/A turbo converted motor (there is speculation on the n/a turbo motor being harder to tune and being more difficult to hit high HP numbers reliably, but i would double check on that). Then work on your cooling system, running a stock Rad on a FMIC is not the greatest way to be doing things, i would recommend a Koyo, Fluidyne, PWR or something of the sort (dual pass if you can afford it as well). Get a FMIC going, like a true setup not the Stocker converted. I would say for 14 psi get something big. Personally i ordered a Greddy V-Spec 24row Kit with the piping and all that, its a tad bit pricey tho, or you can piece your own set together and go with that. For Engine management, yeah the Mega Squirt is a good choice. You got other options too Haltech, Microtech, Emanage (blue or ultimate), Rtek 2.0. As for turbo if your running aa t04b that should be enough, for 300ish horses, if your wanting to go up, you got a few options but that also comes down to price. BNR's have some good options but there hasnt been much correlation between what his site says for HP you can get, and what people have actually gotten. The biggest thing here with the turbo is cash, if you have the cash to get a manifold, wastegate, turbo, lines then go that route because your options open up, if you wanna keep the setup mostly stock (manifold, internal wastegate) then hybrid would be your choice. You gotta make sure to get that hp 350+ as you were saying, that you get the supporting mods to have it reliable or your gonna get the 1 month popped motor. Tuning is a BIG thing as well, if your tuning yourself make sure you have 100% sure knowledge what your doing, if not, get it done by somone professional. A big thing for all of this, is cash. I been trying to find ways to get HP at a 'discount' but honestly, it never works, i realised that when i got my rebuild done, do it right, or dont do it at all.

And lastly, you gotta realise that do you really need all that HP? i mean if you want it and all that because it something you just had plans for or whatever kool, But if your going for it for bragging rights or something, think again. I am just saying to hit 350+ HP theres alot of cash your dumping into it, and i hope you dont endup in a dillemma like me, where you dump all this cash hoping for this awesome speed/hp and you dont get it making you all pissy/depressed/insert **** here.

Other then that, i am sure some of the 2nd gen guru's will chime in and give you better advice. This is all jus based on what i have done and researched. Goodluck

 

well right now im running a FD fuel pump...i KNOW its close to border line on its capacity....
i also know its ALOT of boost being forced through that small IC (hence the IC upgrade)
i APP. the help and i THINK im real close to 300 the way it is...though i could be wrong....
maybe the 260 ISH mark....
and this is not for bragging rights.....
this is for me and myself ONLY......

 

Like i am running a rebuilt s4 turbo motor (JHB housings, all new seals), monster street port, a hybrid turbo (stock boost tho), 550/720cc injectors with a walbro, full exhaust from the downpipe back (Thunderfab dp/mp to apexi dual n1s), no emmissions, cone filter, rtek 1.7 (havent installed my e-manage yet) and the stocker IC (as the greddy unit hasnt come in yet) and i know i am not close to 300 i would assume 240ish (gotta get her dynoed tho to be sure) So i think your 260 is more of a accurate number then the 300. If your doing this for yourself because thats something you want, hey power to ya! just make sure you know what your getting in to. I originally wanted 400HP and when i started getting down to the nitty girty, i realised 300ish hp is more then adequate for me and a street driven, daily driver (for the summer! blasted canada and snow!) car. To get all number discussion settled, just get a dyno, they are like 80-100 bucks here in canada to do 2-3 pulls i assume its similar to that there if not cheaper in the states, that way you get more forsure results and know what your working with.

 

your rear iron will not appreciate that much horsepower, and might end up cracking at the rear dowel pin like many of them do.

 

300-400hp cracking the rear iron at the dowel pin? I never heard of that before, might be something to look into then.

 

Judging by the setup and the TINY ports id say its nowhere near 300whp.

 

think so?
i wonder what its at then?
i guess a dyno will either prove YOU wrong or ME.....
the setup WILL be much better by next summer..it wont get driven much more now that snow is around the corner.....
would a better IC setup help the power any?
i dont see how it could besides keeping the temps. down?

 

just for the record...im trying to stay away from ripping the motor apart (yet!).
i dont see the need if it still has good compression and still runs strong...
and if you claim its TINY ports...how different are they from a TII motors stock ports?

 

A better IC will increase power. How? A better ic will cool the air charge better, cooler charge means more molecules can be packed together, more packed together is a better/greater combustion and hence more power (its something along those lines, essentially the colder charge allows you to cram more air in a smaller space).

The TII ports stock for stock i am not 100% sure about so i dont wanna comment. However, from what i have seen for porting, you can port the T2 much more aggressively/bigger then the N/A.

 

...you're kidding, right?

The TII has 4 big ports instead of 6 small ones... They're considerably larger and don't have the 6-port induction system.

Also, you're dreaming if you want 400 HP with 9.7 compression rotors (or 9.5-ish since you're apparently on an S4), especially with just an Rtek.

 

My FC has stock turbo with all supporting mods intake, exhaust, greddy fmic, microtech tuned by steve kan at 12 psi and steve said the car feels right around 300 hp...im guessing 280 and trapped 109 at the track. With the small 6 ports..i would guess 255-275ish.

 

If I were you I'd upgrade your downpipe, FMIC, fuel-pump and get either 680 primaries or 1000cc secondaries. Go with either a 3" or 80mm DP (depends on the brand) to help with overall better spool, response and power. The difference is easily noticable.

Upgrade to a large "Ebay" core and 2.5" piping. I have the 32x12x3" core and am very happy with it.

And yeah, your fuel-setup will be lacking after this (I'm suprised it's good as it is), so go with a Walbro 255 and your choice of upgraded injectors.

Also, if you don't already have a 3" TID, then upgrade to one--it also helps with response and overall power.

 

you didnt specify about the MANIFOLD ports...
i thought you were talking about the ports INSIDE the motor.......
thats what im talking about.....
the INTAKE MANIFOLD might be another story but i think you could push 350 through them....
could be wrong though....
AND, if you would have read my previous post's it clearly says im switching to a megasquirt....the Rtek will be REPLACED.
im not worried about the compression ratio for the HP id like to achive...its the size of the ports INSIDE of the motor.....

 

i do have the 3" TID in place already...
my fault for not stating that.....
i know your CLOSE to 300ISH wiht your setup BUT you have a ported motor if im not mistaken?
i app. the help... its good to see someone who has a almost similar setup with experience giving me a hand....

 

I WAS talking about the ports in the motor.

 

my mistake......
re-reading your post seems to me like you were talking about the intake manifold....

 

This topic makes me want to cry....I don't even know where to begin so I'll pick the easy battle...

For the record, the 6 port engine has WAY more port area then the TII 4 port engine. Anyone can see this just by looking at the irons. In fact, laying the RB big street port template (for 4 port engines) shows that even stock, the secondary and aux ports on the 6 port engine are much larger then most ported 4 port TII irons.

This page has a graphic representation of the port sizes and timings:
http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.c...ts-intake.html

 

see...now thats the kind of answer i was looking for.....
since you are another person with high comp. rotors and are willing to push them......
IS it possible to hit 350 WHP or more with MY supporting MODS (along with the future MODS added BEFORE the turbo uprgrade)?
should i bother getting more power or at least trying?
im not asking for an opinion of TRYING it, im simply asking WILL it be capable of handling it?

SOOO...my questions still stand:
what could be a realistic turbo i could get,
what size injectors? im thinkin 720/1,000?

 

My "power" mods for fuel setup/overall comparison:

~9:4:1 s4 N/A rotors
~street-port
~ported AiResearch TO4b s5 hybrid turbo with 10psi Turbonetics WG spring
~Greddy Profec-B EBC running 1 bar
~Greddy/Ebay FMIC setup
~3" TID
~ThunderFab 80mm DP/MP mated to Apexi (dual) N1's
~R-Tek 1.7 chip
~Apexi SAFC at around 30%+ MAX correction at 5-6k RPM's
~Walbro 255lph. fuel pump
~680c primary, 890cc secondary injectors
~TB mod etc.

I don't think it's possible for us to hit 350whp without swapping turbo's... And yeah, that's seriously the problem as far as "lacking" power (lol). You will be able to maybe squeeze out 20whp from that turbo using peripheral mods, but after that there's really nothing you can do without upgrading your EMS and/or turbo.

I think the DP and FMIC upgrade will help all around--but after that there's not alot you can do without doing the "big" upgrade (turbo and EMS).

Have you had a chance to run in the quarter yet?

 

I'm halfway through my rebuild
s4 BT w/ s4 n/a 9.4:1 rotors, streetported w/ no increased overlap to pass emissions

going to run a hks stock mount and wolf 3d v500 w/ 720/1680's and a h-trim hybrid. maybe a little bigger later.

You can keep your motor together w/ good tuning and a solid setup. Make sure your ignition is up to the challenge, maybe a crane hi-6 or msd 6a on the leading coil and some 10mm magnecore plug wires.
I'm also doing water injection for extra added bonus of reliability and more boost! Not to mention its a bandaid for the top mount. Even though its bigger and better than stock, the top mounts are far from ideal. The water injection likes a strong ignition system also.
Go me.


Definately get a good intercooler setup, don't halfass it like me. My goal is to make it look stock and pass cali emissions. So thats why I'm running it.....for now

 

Nice, 1 bar on pump gas w/ no sortve additional injection and high compression
What octane do you run on? I'm stuck w/ 91.
I'd love to hear more about all of these high compression cars and how people are running them, and what boost theyre running.
-Ben Martin

 

Ohh... no wonder TII's get such bad gas mileage. Bigger ports hurt mpg and low end torque (but help high end power). The 6-port system lets you have less at low rpms, and more at high rpms. I wonder why they didn't use it in the TII's...

 

well, the thing is....if Jrat can hit 434 on stock ports with a TII motor...why cant we get close to 400WHP...after all...my keg has the bigger ports...tuning WOULD be everything since it will have the high comp rotors....since everyone is afraid that "they will POP" they all dont try it...now since i been on here it has been groing more and more (using high comp. rotors).....i dont know why.....i like seeing it.....
the track i used to go to didnt run this summer so i didnt get to trap it this year, id love to see a before and after upgrade but i know i wont do it because i just cant wait...

now thats just scary for me!
now i def. see myself buying bigger injectors....i guess the idlw shouldnt be that bad to deal with on 680's.....
ive had to crank my SAFCII pretty high to deal with the boost and its pry borderline....
as of right now im SQEEZING 14 LBS. of boost through my IC and hacked setup...i ment to fix the hack job but time and money fell short this summer.....

i THOUGHT i read somewhere that the stock ignition could handle around 300HP so you are prob. right...upgrading WOULD be the wise thing to do...and i will now...


i to considered this one time or another...are they pretty simply to set up? i havent really looked into them yet...what triggers them to come on?
do you have any pics or is it not time yet?



*raises hand* same here...thats the best pumped gas we got here...

we are lucky here to not have emissions in PA...just visual...so ill but a cheap cat. and throw it on the same day of inspection and rip it right back out afterwards...

the 3 inch DP confuses me though?
i got my flange from mazdatriz and its only big enough for 2.5icnhes....
is your turbo V-banned?
how would i go about doing this? i asked one time before and really didnt get a honest strait answer?

 

Stop screwing around with piggybacks and hacked stock ECUs. Get a proper standalone then upgrade the intercooler and turbo. This is of course assuming the engine is in good condition to begin with.