View Poll Results: Should I create this swap thread or not
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Should I make detailed a how to Turbo swap an NA thread (S4)?
Thread Starter
I blame the TPS
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
From: MT
Should I make detailed a how to Turbo swap an NA thread (S4)?
I have just completed another NA to TII engine swap in a 88' S4 NA with a S5 block with S4 externals. Since I have done this before I knew how to do it quite easy but I remember it wasn't too easy finding exact information and step by step instructions on how to exactly go from a NA engine to a complete TII engine, (not how to turbo a NA, actually swaping in a TII engine). So, right now I have all the information and everything I had to do to make it all work perfectly fresh on my memory.
What I'm wondering guys is should I create a Thread labeled "How to swap a NA to a Turbo engine" with detailed info with all the parts and steps to make it all work? Or should I just save my typing and let noobs and people swaping there engine create threads everytime they run into a problem or have a question on how to do it and what they would need to get and do? I'm thinking this could be some sticky material because it would be that thorough and exact down to every part and step done to make it all work as if it was like that from factory. I know that something like this would have been really useful when I started my first TII swap. So what do you guys think? Should I make type up something like this or...
What I'm wondering guys is should I create a Thread labeled "How to swap a NA to a Turbo engine" with detailed info with all the parts and steps to make it all work? Or should I just save my typing and let noobs and people swaping there engine create threads everytime they run into a problem or have a question on how to do it and what they would need to get and do? I'm thinking this could be some sticky material because it would be that thorough and exact down to every part and step done to make it all work as if it was like that from factory. I know that something like this would have been really useful when I started my first TII swap. So what do you guys think? Should I make type up something like this or...
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
The day after you post that thread, I guarantee that somebody will post a thread asking HOW DO I ?????
In fact your thread will probably be just two or three theads below his HOW DO I.
I can guarantee a way of having your new thread, NEVER EVER read. Have the moderators insert it in the FAQ thread. Or ARCHEIVE it.
In fact your thread will probably be just two or three theads below his HOW DO I.
I can guarantee a way of having your new thread, NEVER EVER read. Have the moderators insert it in the FAQ thread. Or ARCHEIVE it.
Well, that's true on any forum really. I see it a lot on several different car forums. Somebody gets a car like an rx-7, finds these forums, and doesn't feel like actually reading anything and just posts, like the RX-7 is supposed to be something super easy to do swaps with >.>
As for making that thread, I say definitely yes. I'm highly interested. I'm currently considering whether or not to TII swap my GXL or put a supercharger on it, and I would greatly appreciate a detailed thread on what the TII swap would entail.
As for making that thread, I say definitely yes. I'm highly interested. I'm currently considering whether or not to TII swap my GXL or put a supercharger on it, and I would greatly appreciate a detailed thread on what the TII swap would entail.
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,859
Likes: 13
From: Sterling Heights, MI
The day after you post that thread, I guarantee that somebody will post a thread asking HOW DO I ?????
In fact your thread will probably be just two or three theads below his HOW DO I.
I can guarantee a way of having your new thread, NEVER EVER read. Have the moderators insert it in the FAQ thread. Or ARCHEIVE it.
In fact your thread will probably be just two or three theads below his HOW DO I.
I can guarantee a way of having your new thread, NEVER EVER read. Have the moderators insert it in the FAQ thread. Or ARCHEIVE it.
I'd definitely be interested in this. If you do it, make sure you explain what changes need to be made in the wiring. I think that is the most difficult part to get specific information on, and I'm still unsure what needs to be changed where. I think this would help out alot of people (including myself, I hope to start my swap sometime this summer).
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 674
Likes: 1
From: California & Florida
Sure.... why not. I always feel better sharing knowledge that might help someone out or help inform someone contemplating doing a swap. I'm always thinking about doing something to my 7, but budget, time & practicality somehow get in the way. Maybe you will include the reasoning behind choosing specific components. That seems to be the big question. Exactly what parts do I need & why can't I use A,B or C instead of X,Y or Z. I guess the differences between the s4 & s5 models as well as J-spec or A-spec would need to be addressed as well. You know the drill... My S5 j-spec T-II won't plug into my S4 A-spec harness or the gauges won't work or my ECU just went poof!! Or where does my S5 OMP plug into now? There is so much variance to cover that one walk-through can't cover completely. Good luck though... I'll read it for sure.
Ramses666
Ramses666
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 409
Likes: 2
From: Redmond, WA
+1 I am also in this state where I dont know which direction I'm heading in my quest for power
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Put it Up!..If you Do..I'll send you a Coffee..somehow some way I will!..(I'm gonna Be doing the swap, next year,it would be nice to have a Tutorial on How to Do it!)..Cheers Chris..Dave/STYX.
I plan to be buying an FC sometime in the next year, probably NA, and will be looking at doing the swap myself, as experience. This would be a great help - but as said, get an admin to proof read through it, and sticky it. So others new to the forums can find it rather easily.
And another thing, LOCK IT! If you wish to add revisions, let the admin know and he can unlock and let you edit your post, then relock.
And another thing, LOCK IT! If you wish to add revisions, let the admin know and he can unlock and let you edit your post, then relock.
I did the swap. Took a while. Take pictures, and be specific or wire colors, location, and be specific. I found all the info in different places then still had to get a haynes manual. Would be great for someone to be able to get the info in one place. Even the most simple details could save someone days/weeks of wasting time looking for the anwser.
Rotary Rocket
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 395
Likes: 1
From: St.Louis
whether you do it or not is irrelevant, noobs are gonna ask questions no matter what. so dont think of making it for noobs, but for people who know what they are doing and are ready but need some guidance (like me ) do somthing for the rotary community. the gurus didnt become gurus by not doing anything.
) do somthing for the rotary community. the gurus didnt become gurus by not doing anything.
This would definitely benefit the guys like me who have accumulated the parts needed but could use a little push in the right direction. I have worked the whole thing out in stages for my S4 Vert Turbo II project. Just got the engine cleaned the other day so this would be a JIT~Just In Time thing for me. The swap doesn't really worry me all that much as it's not my first engine swap but it is my first rotary. Something else that would be useful to this STICKY would be some info on initial startup (a checklist of sorts all in one place).
Thread Starter
I blame the TPS
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
From: MT
Looks like people want this write up so I'll be typing it up and getting it all ready to be posted. It will take me about a week to get all the info some prices and specs etc gathered up and typed up. Expect something pretty soon
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
From: Seattle Washington
Can you put a comprehensive parts required list with approximate prices with a total swap price (estimate both doing everything the right way and leaving out things like the transmission drive shaft and rear end to save money). Thanks in advance!
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Juarez
+2 Im sure every N/A owner dreams of a tII swap and someday may do so. A very detailed write up on EXACTLY how to do so will be priceless to those who are willing and able to.:icon_tu:
Last edited by rockstarslevin; Jul 24, 2008 at 10:50 AM.
Thread Starter
I blame the TPS
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
From: MT
OK, Lets start with front to back:
MAF/AFM: You're gunna need a 87-88 Turbo MAF/AFM (mass air flow meter) N318 i believe . The car Will start and run with a Non turbo MAF but it will run rich. the turbo's have a stronger spring in them.
TID: (turbo inlet duct) a black rubber duct that goes from the MAF outlet to the turbo inlet. Some people have made them from home depot's turbo and intercooler etc. section. The stock ones are kinda known for cracking right on the turbo inlet end right where it goes over the turbo inlet and it clamps on. Or if you already have an after market cone filter and MAF adapter you can make an even easier inlet duct out of intercooler piping and a 3in to 2-2.5in reducer for the MAF to pipe and a standard connector to hook it up to the turbo. I can take pics if you have no idea what I'm taking about...
BOOST SENSOR: Get a Turbo II boost sensor #318. If for some reason you don't have one by the time you are going to fire her up you can do two things: (And I know its not right guys so don't flame me for saying these things...) 1. leave your NA boost sensor in and just don't hit boost until you get one. If you do it will boost up but will stutter really bad unless you floor it then it will accelerate sorta normally. I'm not sure if it runs lean or rich when you floor it so just don't do it unless you Really have to. 2. Unplug it completely. The ECU will set the Boost sensor parameters at a preset level and leave it there (sorta like S4 limp mode kinda). With it unplugged you can drive the car normally but it will run rich (bad gas mileage) and your "shift up" light won't work. I know it runs the engine rich because I checked the stoich (Air to fuel) level with my Wide band meter on one of my TII's when I unplugged the boost sensor. (again flame on if you think I'm wrong, this is just a temporary suggestion guys there's no substitute for a real turbo boost sensor)
ENGINE: Where you get one I don't care. I'm not gunna recommend any japan importers except maybe "japan2la" To make things easier just get a S4 turbo engine. Although I got a S5 and converted it to work with my S4 chassis, thats a whole different thread though. Above it all I built my S5/S4 engine so I had to get the little things like: all the top mount intercooler piping (which isn't alot). You'll probably get all that anyway from where ever and who ever you got your engine from.
I blocked off ALL the emissions on this engine so I'm not going to go into emissions stuff AND i disabled the twin scroll system when it had a S4 turbo setup on it.
WIRING HARNESS: either harness needs a few mods to make them work perfectly. The original NA harness in my opinion was the easiest to mod. I haven't had to mod a Turbo harness to make that work but some people have... search. I can't remember which wires you need to trip but I know one of the NA wires that go to the power steering goes to the knock sensor system on the TII's so... not fixing the wire problem means when ever you turn the wheel your ECU will retard the timing 20 degrees. The knock system works about the time you start to here big noises and you have realized to let off the throttle (its pretty useless and leave out that system in your swap) There's another wire that on a TII goes to a fuel pump resistor but not on a NA so disable that wire too. I'll check one of my swaps to verify the wire numbers like 3B etc.
You have to lengthen your harness to alow it to plug into the BAC and sometimes its not long enough to plug into the TPS. Easy and straight forward stuff though.
INTERCOOLER: you have 2.5 options really: 1. get a front mount setup. 2. get a TII hood. .5 the stock top mount intercooler will fit under your NA hood and allow it to close BUT you're pretty much cooking your air instead of cooling it then. I saw temps of up to 120 degrees intake temp on one of the swaps i did where we left the NA hood on and ran a TMIC TEMPORARILY. You can however just leave the NA hood off with the TMIC and then it works to an extent but not as good as a TII hood setup or going with a FMIC.
BLOW OFF VALVE/ BAR: (BAR= bypass air return) if you don't have a stock TID then you need an actually atmospheric blow off valve like a Blitz DD BOV , otherwise the stock BAR plugs into the TID from the turbo outlet pipe. BOV's are easy to hook up though. just plug them into a place after the turbo outlet and not too close to the intake and give it some vacuum and you're good to go.
THROTTLE CABLE: Simple, get a TII throttle cable
BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM LINE: Lengthen your existing one to your original pipe if you can.
TRANSMISSION: You have a few options on this.
1. use your NA trans and upgrade your clutch to hold the extra power, but in the end you're gunna wish you did a full turbo drive train conversion cause the NA system works but isn't the strongest.
2. Use a turbo trans S4 or S5 and use a turbo clutch setup, turbo slave cylinder, starter and... get a custom drive shaft. There's ways of doing that, the easiest way is to buy Mazdatrix's custom TII to NA shaft which is basically a NA shaft with a turbo Trans connector and a NA rear end connector. You can also find a good drive shaft shop and take them a NA drive line and a TII drive line and have them switch the ends. Thats cheaper and works just as good. I'm only going to mention the words "NA Automatic Trans driveshaft" ... (I'm not recommending it in any way, don't flame) The NA auto shaft has in a sense a turbo front and a NA end BUT its a little shorter so you could strip your turbo trans's outlet if you run that shaft hard (boost) this shaft will get you by as in you car use it to move the car and maybe take it on a short test drive... thats all.
3. Turbo drivetrain setup, you will need : the turbo clutch setup, turbo slave cylinder, turbo starter, turbo drive shaft, turbo rear end and turbo half shafts and a few nuts and bolts here and there. Its all or none with this setup so you're either going this way or not but you can use S4 or S5 parts.
FUEL PUMP: You can use a stock turbo fuel pump, a S6 (3rd gen) fuel pump, a walbro 255 replacement, or if you're really desperate you can use your NA to start and drive the car and NOT BOOST. It will lean out if you use a NA pump and thats bad news.
EXHAUST DOWNPIPE: there's a few things you can do, get a stock TII precat/downpipe and mid pipe which bolts it up to the main cat OR get a aftermarket downpipe or custom one. You'll see the problem when you get to that point and you'll find its not too much work to make it work. Oh that NA exhaust system is kinda restrictive so redoing the entire system is advisable or it will effect your boost.
ECU: Get a N332 or N333 ECU, these are turbo ECU's and you need one. then along the way you can do what ever and maybe get a RTEK 2.1 or Apexi power FC, or a Haltec blah blah blah
BOOST GAUGE: Don't think you can just throw a turbo gauge cluster in it and the stock boost gauge will work, it won't unless its a S5 car. those are interchangeable and are plug and play. You can make the S4 stock boost gauge work but then again anything is possible and its not worth the trouble. Get a aftermarket boost gauge and mount it where ever.
There's a chance I could have left something out maily because I'm a little tired or its small enough that I just didn't remember it so if you have any questions and no flames just ask. Oh and pics on request
MAF/AFM: You're gunna need a 87-88 Turbo MAF/AFM (mass air flow meter) N318 i believe . The car Will start and run with a Non turbo MAF but it will run rich. the turbo's have a stronger spring in them.
TID: (turbo inlet duct) a black rubber duct that goes from the MAF outlet to the turbo inlet. Some people have made them from home depot's turbo and intercooler etc. section. The stock ones are kinda known for cracking right on the turbo inlet end right where it goes over the turbo inlet and it clamps on. Or if you already have an after market cone filter and MAF adapter you can make an even easier inlet duct out of intercooler piping and a 3in to 2-2.5in reducer for the MAF to pipe and a standard connector to hook it up to the turbo. I can take pics if you have no idea what I'm taking about...
BOOST SENSOR: Get a Turbo II boost sensor #318. If for some reason you don't have one by the time you are going to fire her up you can do two things: (And I know its not right guys so don't flame me for saying these things...) 1. leave your NA boost sensor in and just don't hit boost until you get one. If you do it will boost up but will stutter really bad unless you floor it then it will accelerate sorta normally. I'm not sure if it runs lean or rich when you floor it so just don't do it unless you Really have to. 2. Unplug it completely. The ECU will set the Boost sensor parameters at a preset level and leave it there (sorta like S4 limp mode kinda). With it unplugged you can drive the car normally but it will run rich (bad gas mileage) and your "shift up" light won't work. I know it runs the engine rich because I checked the stoich (Air to fuel) level with my Wide band meter on one of my TII's when I unplugged the boost sensor. (again flame on if you think I'm wrong, this is just a temporary suggestion guys there's no substitute for a real turbo boost sensor)
ENGINE: Where you get one I don't care. I'm not gunna recommend any japan importers except maybe "japan2la" To make things easier just get a S4 turbo engine. Although I got a S5 and converted it to work with my S4 chassis, thats a whole different thread though. Above it all I built my S5/S4 engine so I had to get the little things like: all the top mount intercooler piping (which isn't alot). You'll probably get all that anyway from where ever and who ever you got your engine from.
I blocked off ALL the emissions on this engine so I'm not going to go into emissions stuff AND i disabled the twin scroll system when it had a S4 turbo setup on it.
WIRING HARNESS: either harness needs a few mods to make them work perfectly. The original NA harness in my opinion was the easiest to mod. I haven't had to mod a Turbo harness to make that work but some people have... search. I can't remember which wires you need to trip but I know one of the NA wires that go to the power steering goes to the knock sensor system on the TII's so... not fixing the wire problem means when ever you turn the wheel your ECU will retard the timing 20 degrees. The knock system works about the time you start to here big noises and you have realized to let off the throttle (its pretty useless and leave out that system in your swap) There's another wire that on a TII goes to a fuel pump resistor but not on a NA so disable that wire too. I'll check one of my swaps to verify the wire numbers like 3B etc.
You have to lengthen your harness to alow it to plug into the BAC and sometimes its not long enough to plug into the TPS. Easy and straight forward stuff though.
INTERCOOLER: you have 2.5 options really: 1. get a front mount setup. 2. get a TII hood. .5 the stock top mount intercooler will fit under your NA hood and allow it to close BUT you're pretty much cooking your air instead of cooling it then. I saw temps of up to 120 degrees intake temp on one of the swaps i did where we left the NA hood on and ran a TMIC TEMPORARILY. You can however just leave the NA hood off with the TMIC and then it works to an extent but not as good as a TII hood setup or going with a FMIC.
BLOW OFF VALVE/ BAR: (BAR= bypass air return) if you don't have a stock TID then you need an actually atmospheric blow off valve like a Blitz DD BOV , otherwise the stock BAR plugs into the TID from the turbo outlet pipe. BOV's are easy to hook up though. just plug them into a place after the turbo outlet and not too close to the intake and give it some vacuum and you're good to go.
THROTTLE CABLE: Simple, get a TII throttle cable
BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM LINE: Lengthen your existing one to your original pipe if you can.
TRANSMISSION: You have a few options on this.
1. use your NA trans and upgrade your clutch to hold the extra power, but in the end you're gunna wish you did a full turbo drive train conversion cause the NA system works but isn't the strongest.
2. Use a turbo trans S4 or S5 and use a turbo clutch setup, turbo slave cylinder, starter and... get a custom drive shaft. There's ways of doing that, the easiest way is to buy Mazdatrix's custom TII to NA shaft which is basically a NA shaft with a turbo Trans connector and a NA rear end connector. You can also find a good drive shaft shop and take them a NA drive line and a TII drive line and have them switch the ends. Thats cheaper and works just as good. I'm only going to mention the words "NA Automatic Trans driveshaft" ... (I'm not recommending it in any way, don't flame) The NA auto shaft has in a sense a turbo front and a NA end BUT its a little shorter so you could strip your turbo trans's outlet if you run that shaft hard (boost) this shaft will get you by as in you car use it to move the car and maybe take it on a short test drive... thats all.
3. Turbo drivetrain setup, you will need : the turbo clutch setup, turbo slave cylinder, turbo starter, turbo drive shaft, turbo rear end and turbo half shafts and a few nuts and bolts here and there. Its all or none with this setup so you're either going this way or not but you can use S4 or S5 parts.
FUEL PUMP: You can use a stock turbo fuel pump, a S6 (3rd gen) fuel pump, a walbro 255 replacement, or if you're really desperate you can use your NA to start and drive the car and NOT BOOST. It will lean out if you use a NA pump and thats bad news.
EXHAUST DOWNPIPE: there's a few things you can do, get a stock TII precat/downpipe and mid pipe which bolts it up to the main cat OR get a aftermarket downpipe or custom one. You'll see the problem when you get to that point and you'll find its not too much work to make it work. Oh that NA exhaust system is kinda restrictive so redoing the entire system is advisable or it will effect your boost.
ECU: Get a N332 or N333 ECU, these are turbo ECU's and you need one. then along the way you can do what ever and maybe get a RTEK 2.1 or Apexi power FC, or a Haltec blah blah blah
BOOST GAUGE: Don't think you can just throw a turbo gauge cluster in it and the stock boost gauge will work, it won't unless its a S5 car. those are interchangeable and are plug and play. You can make the S4 stock boost gauge work but then again anything is possible and its not worth the trouble. Get a aftermarket boost gauge and mount it where ever.
There's a chance I could have left something out maily because I'm a little tired or its small enough that I just didn't remember it so if you have any questions and no flames just ask. Oh and pics on request
Thread Starter
I blame the TPS
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
From: MT
OK, Lets start with front to back:
MAF/AFM: You're gunna need a 87-88 Turbo MAF/AFM (mass air flow meter) N318 i believe . The car Will start and run with a Non turbo MAF but it will run rich. the turbo's have a stronger spring in them.
TID: (turbo inlet duct) a black rubber duct that goes from the MAF outlet to the turbo inlet. Some people have made them from home depot's turbo and intercooler etc. section. The stock ones are kinda known for cracking right on the turbo inlet end right where it goes over the turbo inlet and it clamps on. Or if you already have an after market cone filter and MAF adapter you can make an even easier inlet duct out of intercooler piping and a 3in to 2-2.5in reducer for the MAF to pipe and a standard connector to hook it up to the turbo. I can take pics if you have no idea what I'm taking about...
BOOST SENSOR: Get a Turbo II boost sensor #318. If for some reason you don't have one by the time you are going to fire her up you can do two things: (And I know its not right guys so don't flame me for saying these things...) 1. leave your NA boost sensor in and just don't hit boost until you get one. If you do it will boost up but will stutter really bad unless you floor it then it will accelerate sorta normally. I'm not sure if it runs lean or rich when you floor it so just don't do it unless you Really have to. 2. Unplug it completely. The ECU will set the Boost sensor parameters at a preset level and leave it there (sorta like S4 limp mode kinda). With it unplugged you can drive the car normally but it will run rich (bad gas mileage) and your "shift up" light won't work. I know it runs the engine rich because I checked the stoich (Air to fuel) level with my Wide band meter on one of my TII's when I unplugged the boost sensor. (again flame on if you think I'm wrong, this is just a temporary suggestion guys there's no substitute for a real turbo boost sensor)
ENGINE: Where you get one I don't care. I'm not gunna recommend any japan importers except maybe "japan2la" To make things easier just get a S4 turbo engine. Although I got a S5 and converted it to work with my S4 chassis, thats a whole different thread though. Above it all I built my S5/S4 engine so I had to get the little things like: all the top mount intercooler piping (which isn't alot). You'll probably get all that anyway from where ever and who ever you got your engine from.
I blocked off ALL the emissions on this engine so I'm not going to go into emissions stuff AND i disabled the twin scroll system when it had a S4 turbo setup on it.
WIRING HARNESS: either harness needs a few mods to make them work perfectly. The original NA harness in my opinion was the easiest to mod. I haven't had to mod a Turbo harness to make that work but some people have... search. I can't remember which wires you need to trip but I know one of the NA wires that go to the power steering goes to the knock sensor system on the TII's so... not fixing the wire problem means when ever you turn the wheel your ECU will retard the timing 20 degrees. The knock system works about the time you start to here big noises and you have realized to let off the throttle (its pretty useless and leave out that system in your swap) There's another wire that on a TII goes to a fuel pump resistor but not on a NA so disable that wire too. I'll check one of my swaps to verify the wire numbers like 3B etc.
You have to lengthen your harness to alow it to plug into the BAC and sometimes its not long enough to plug into the TPS. Easy and straight forward stuff though.
INTERCOOLER: you have 2.5 options really: 1. get a front mount setup. 2. get a TII hood. .5 the stock top mount intercooler will fit under your NA hood and allow it to close BUT you're pretty much cooking your air instead of cooling it then. I saw temps of up to 120 degrees intake temp on one of the swaps i did where we left the NA hood on and ran a TMIC TEMPORARILY. You can however just leave the NA hood off with the TMIC and then it works to an extent but not as good as a TII hood setup or going with a FMIC.
BLOW OFF VALVE/ BAR: (BAR= bypass air return) if you don't have a stock TID then you need an actually atmospheric blow off valve like a Blitz DD BOV , otherwise the stock BAR plugs into the TID from the turbo outlet pipe. BOV's are easy to hook up though. just plug them into a place after the turbo outlet and not too close to the intake and give it some vacuum and you're good to go.
THROTTLE CABLE: Simple, get a TII throttle cable
BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM LINE: Lengthen your existing one to your original pipe if you can.
TRANSMISSION: You have a few options on this.
1. use your NA trans and upgrade your clutch to hold the extra power, but in the end you're gunna wish you did a full turbo drive train conversion cause the NA system works but isn't the strongest.
2. Use a turbo trans S4 or S5 and use a turbo clutch setup, turbo slave cylinder, starter and... get a custom drive shaft. There's ways of doing that, the easiest way is to buy Mazdatrix's custom TII to NA shaft which is basically a NA shaft with a turbo Trans connector and a NA rear end connector. You can also find a good drive shaft shop and take them a NA drive line and a TII drive line and have them switch the ends. Thats cheaper and works just as good. I'm only going to mention the words "NA Automatic Trans driveshaft" ... (I'm not recommending it in any way, don't flame) The NA auto shaft has in a sense a turbo front and a NA end BUT its a little shorter so you could strip your turbo trans's outlet if you run that shaft hard (boost) this shaft will get you by as in you car use it to move the car and maybe take it on a short test drive... thats all.
3. Turbo drivetrain setup, you will need : the turbo clutch setup, turbo slave cylinder, turbo starter, turbo drive shaft, turbo rear end and turbo half shafts and a few nuts and bolts here and there. Its all or none with this setup so you're either going this way or not but you can use S4 or S5 parts.
FUEL PUMP: You can use a stock turbo fuel pump, a S6 (3rd gen) fuel pump, a walbro 255 replacement, or if you're really desperate you can use your NA to start and drive the car and NOT BOOST. It will lean out if you use a NA pump and thats bad news.
EXHAUST DOWNPIPE: there's a few things you can do, get a stock TII precat/downpipe and mid pipe which bolts it up to the main cat OR get a aftermarket downpipe or custom one. You'll see the problem when you get to that point and you'll find its not too much work to make it work. Oh that NA exhaust system is kinda restrictive so redoing the entire system is advisable or it will effect your boost.
ECU: Get a N332 or N333 ECU, these are turbo ECU's and you need one. then along the way you can do what ever and maybe get a RTEK 2.1 or Apexi power FC, or a Haltec blah blah blah
BOOST GAUGE: Don't think you can just throw a turbo gauge cluster in it and the stock boost gauge will work, it won't unless its a S5 car. those are interchangeable and are plug and play. You can make the S4 stock boost gauge work but then again anything is possible and its not worth the trouble. Get a aftermarket boost gauge and mount it where ever.
There's a chance I could have left something out maily because I'm a little tired or its small enough that I just didn't remember it so if you have any questions and no flames just ask. Oh and pics on request.
I didn't include prices for everything cause they always vary and most times you get a "great deal" on a part so its your job to find this stuff. It may seem like a lot but its way worth it.
MAF/AFM: You're gunna need a 87-88 Turbo MAF/AFM (mass air flow meter) N318 i believe . The car Will start and run with a Non turbo MAF but it will run rich. the turbo's have a stronger spring in them.
TID: (turbo inlet duct) a black rubber duct that goes from the MAF outlet to the turbo inlet. Some people have made them from home depot's turbo and intercooler etc. section. The stock ones are kinda known for cracking right on the turbo inlet end right where it goes over the turbo inlet and it clamps on. Or if you already have an after market cone filter and MAF adapter you can make an even easier inlet duct out of intercooler piping and a 3in to 2-2.5in reducer for the MAF to pipe and a standard connector to hook it up to the turbo. I can take pics if you have no idea what I'm taking about...
BOOST SENSOR: Get a Turbo II boost sensor #318. If for some reason you don't have one by the time you are going to fire her up you can do two things: (And I know its not right guys so don't flame me for saying these things...) 1. leave your NA boost sensor in and just don't hit boost until you get one. If you do it will boost up but will stutter really bad unless you floor it then it will accelerate sorta normally. I'm not sure if it runs lean or rich when you floor it so just don't do it unless you Really have to. 2. Unplug it completely. The ECU will set the Boost sensor parameters at a preset level and leave it there (sorta like S4 limp mode kinda). With it unplugged you can drive the car normally but it will run rich (bad gas mileage) and your "shift up" light won't work. I know it runs the engine rich because I checked the stoich (Air to fuel) level with my Wide band meter on one of my TII's when I unplugged the boost sensor. (again flame on if you think I'm wrong, this is just a temporary suggestion guys there's no substitute for a real turbo boost sensor)
ENGINE: Where you get one I don't care. I'm not gunna recommend any japan importers except maybe "japan2la" To make things easier just get a S4 turbo engine. Although I got a S5 and converted it to work with my S4 chassis, thats a whole different thread though. Above it all I built my S5/S4 engine so I had to get the little things like: all the top mount intercooler piping (which isn't alot). You'll probably get all that anyway from where ever and who ever you got your engine from.
I blocked off ALL the emissions on this engine so I'm not going to go into emissions stuff AND i disabled the twin scroll system when it had a S4 turbo setup on it.
WIRING HARNESS: either harness needs a few mods to make them work perfectly. The original NA harness in my opinion was the easiest to mod. I haven't had to mod a Turbo harness to make that work but some people have... search. I can't remember which wires you need to trip but I know one of the NA wires that go to the power steering goes to the knock sensor system on the TII's so... not fixing the wire problem means when ever you turn the wheel your ECU will retard the timing 20 degrees. The knock system works about the time you start to here big noises and you have realized to let off the throttle (its pretty useless and leave out that system in your swap) There's another wire that on a TII goes to a fuel pump resistor but not on a NA so disable that wire too. I'll check one of my swaps to verify the wire numbers like 3B etc.
You have to lengthen your harness to alow it to plug into the BAC and sometimes its not long enough to plug into the TPS. Easy and straight forward stuff though.
INTERCOOLER: you have 2.5 options really: 1. get a front mount setup. 2. get a TII hood. .5 the stock top mount intercooler will fit under your NA hood and allow it to close BUT you're pretty much cooking your air instead of cooling it then. I saw temps of up to 120 degrees intake temp on one of the swaps i did where we left the NA hood on and ran a TMIC TEMPORARILY. You can however just leave the NA hood off with the TMIC and then it works to an extent but not as good as a TII hood setup or going with a FMIC.
BLOW OFF VALVE/ BAR: (BAR= bypass air return) if you don't have a stock TID then you need an actually atmospheric blow off valve like a Blitz DD BOV , otherwise the stock BAR plugs into the TID from the turbo outlet pipe. BOV's are easy to hook up though. just plug them into a place after the turbo outlet and not too close to the intake and give it some vacuum and you're good to go.
THROTTLE CABLE: Simple, get a TII throttle cable
BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM LINE: Lengthen your existing one to your original pipe if you can.
TRANSMISSION: You have a few options on this.
1. use your NA trans and upgrade your clutch to hold the extra power, but in the end you're gunna wish you did a full turbo drive train conversion cause the NA system works but isn't the strongest.
2. Use a turbo trans S4 or S5 and use a turbo clutch setup, turbo slave cylinder, starter and... get a custom drive shaft. There's ways of doing that, the easiest way is to buy Mazdatrix's custom TII to NA shaft which is basically a NA shaft with a turbo Trans connector and a NA rear end connector. You can also find a good drive shaft shop and take them a NA drive line and a TII drive line and have them switch the ends. Thats cheaper and works just as good. I'm only going to mention the words "NA Automatic Trans driveshaft" ... (I'm not recommending it in any way, don't flame) The NA auto shaft has in a sense a turbo front and a NA end BUT its a little shorter so you could strip your turbo trans's outlet if you run that shaft hard (boost) this shaft will get you by as in you car use it to move the car and maybe take it on a short test drive... thats all.
3. Turbo drivetrain setup, you will need : the turbo clutch setup, turbo slave cylinder, turbo starter, turbo drive shaft, turbo rear end and turbo half shafts and a few nuts and bolts here and there. Its all or none with this setup so you're either going this way or not but you can use S4 or S5 parts.
FUEL PUMP: You can use a stock turbo fuel pump, a S6 (3rd gen) fuel pump, a walbro 255 replacement, or if you're really desperate you can use your NA to start and drive the car and NOT BOOST. It will lean out if you use a NA pump and thats bad news.
EXHAUST DOWNPIPE: there's a few things you can do, get a stock TII precat/downpipe and mid pipe which bolts it up to the main cat OR get a aftermarket downpipe or custom one. You'll see the problem when you get to that point and you'll find its not too much work to make it work. Oh that NA exhaust system is kinda restrictive so redoing the entire system is advisable or it will effect your boost.
ECU: Get a N332 or N333 ECU, these are turbo ECU's and you need one. then along the way you can do what ever and maybe get a RTEK 2.1 or Apexi power FC, or a Haltec blah blah blah
BOOST GAUGE: Don't think you can just throw a turbo gauge cluster in it and the stock boost gauge will work, it won't unless its a S5 car. those are interchangeable and are plug and play. You can make the S4 stock boost gauge work but then again anything is possible and its not worth the trouble. Get a aftermarket boost gauge and mount it where ever.
There's a chance I could have left something out maily because I'm a little tired or its small enough that I just didn't remember it so if you have any questions and no flames just ask. Oh and pics on request.
I didn't include prices for everything cause they always vary and most times you get a "great deal" on a part so its your job to find this stuff. It may seem like a lot but its way worth it.
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