Nicademus

So I'm considering purchasing this car: Click Here for Craiglist Ad

I've heard that rotary engines don't last long and when they go down, they go down hard. I love the way rotary engines perform when I drive and I love the look of this car inside and out (I'm ok with doing work on it, but I'm also not trying to open a can of worms). I'm just looking for any help anyone can give me. I realize this is going to be seen as a newb question and I've been searching on multiple forums for info, but when it comes down to it you guys are the pros and the ones that can let me know whats up.

Here's the info from the Craigslist ad in case some of you can't go to that site at work or something:

FS: 1988 10th AE RX7 Turbo - $2200 (Seattle)


The engine stopped running, not sure why, could be a stuck seal. Since it is unreliable and I want it gone the price has been adjusted in the following way. The car will have to be towed as it does not currently drive. Seems like a stuck seal since it ran the day before when I was just moving it in and out of the drive way. I was not boosting or anything. After I parked it I couldn't start it up a few days later.

$3200 for the car as it sits with the supra fuel pump, agx suspension, one set of 10th AE rims, strut tower bar.

$2700 for the car minus the lights and BOV (I will supply sealed beam replacements, but you will need a couple rx7 headlight motor arms)

$2200 for the car minus the lights, BOV, and Exhaust

162XXX Miles on the chassis
Uknown mileage on the motor (it's a jspec swap)
3" Racing Beat downpipe
3" Racing Beat pre-silencer
3" Mandrel Bent mid-pipe
3" Kakimoto rear section and muffler (less than 1000 miles on it)
Upgraded Turbo Supra Fuel Pump (the car runs a bit rich right now)
Brand new Tanabe Strut Tower Bar (Not pictured)
Old school HKS Super Sequential Blow Off Valve
Eibach springs with KYB AGX shocks front and rear
Brand new custom Hella dual 90mm headlights with 6k HID's
One full set of 10th AE white rims
Manual Steering Rack
Brand New FD alternator with custom dual alternator pulley (has a higher amperage output than FC's)

Engine:
Engine, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and turbo are from a Series 5 Jspec Turbo II
The electronics were used from the original Series 4 Turbo II
The engine starts and runs perfect, but does need to be premixed as the Series 5 motor used an electronic oil metering pump and the S4 used a mechanical OMP
All emissions has been removed (there are a few options but you will have to decide how you want to do emissions)

Chassis:
Super clean minust the paint chipping on the hood and sunroof. 10th AE's are notorious for bad paint, mine seems to be one of the better one's out there especially since the paint chips are largely restricted to the sunroof and hood only. There is a few dents and dings, and one dent underneath the drivers side (pictured) but the shell is straight and sound.

Reason for sale/Extra info:
Simply put I have too many projects and not enough time. I'd love to keep the car as it was the first car I bought, but I just can't do it. Maybe I'll regret the sale in the future, but for now it's gotta go. The car has never been registered to me, but I do have title in hand and will sign a bill of sale over to the new owner. It's super easy and you will have no problems transferring it at the DOL minus the emissions which is your responsibility.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Alright, first of all the whole "I've heard rotaries don't last long" thing is just BS made up by people who have never owned a rotary before. When treated right, they'll last just as long or longer than a piston engine. I'm sure I'm not the only one that hates that lie either; remember, you are posting on an RX7 forum, heh.

Second, that car is defintely going to be a sizeable project. The engine trouble isn't described very well at all, so it's hard to say what the actual problem might be. If the car has been sitting for a long time, there's the possibility of stale gas causing the engine to run poorly. It's also possible the owner guessed right and there is a stuck apex seal, but that can mean an engine rebuild if quick fix methods fail to get the seal back to normal. If you're not familiar with apex seals, a damaged or stuck seal will cause compression loss in 2 of 6 chambers.

Then there's always the possibility that the owner blew the engine (apex seal damage or total loss) and is leaving that information out. Only a compression test and inspection of the seals through the exhaust ports can tell you for certain. Compression is easy to check, but looking into the exhaust ports is probably out of the question while the motor is in the car, hah. Search youtube for rx7 compression test videos to get an idea of what the needle bumps look like.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

a tad high in my opinion. when you're buying a 10AE, you are buying a rare RX-7. one that should have a better engine and drivetrain assessment and history, should not have those stickers and those crummy headlights, should have all four correct wheels, and for that price, better paint, better seats, and a stereo system that has not been gutted like that. when i bought my 10AE, it was worse. i paid too much for the car but i've also learned so much from that car. that car has potential and i think that closer to $1500 would be more appropriate.

heres a thread on some of the restoration of my 10AE that may help you make a decision. the car has only improved from the pictures in the thread. more stock and restoration parts have been added.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-294/my-10th-anniversary-project-not-56k-friendly-720132/

Nicademus

The reason I fear the rotary a bit is because of a friend who has an FD. Its his second one and he acts afraid to drive is car around for fear that the motor will go, which I've never thought makes sense since his car is really nice in all ways. The engine was done by a legit shop and what not. SOOoo basically he kinda scared me, but I've always thought rotaries were really cool, which I think came from my father because he's always been a big fan of them.

Anyways, I'm sorta looking for a project car. I want something to learn on. Something I won't be afraid to get my hands dirty with. I have a Lexus IS300 and at some point decided that I have no interest in modding it. Keep that and my motorcycle as my daily drivers. I'm considering three different vehicles:

- FC RX7 (the white 10AE is a car I think looks classic)
- Corolla AE86 GTS
- BMW E30 325i/325is 88'-91'

Wow I'm looking at your 10AE RX7 and it was really hurting when you got it. Glad to see and enthusiast picked it up. I wish I had the money to buy all three of the car models I have listed above but substitute and E30 M3 instead of the 325is

I'm impressed by all the 10AE stuff that came with your car. You're lucky when that kind of stuff remains with an older vehicle. Really cool

sunburn

IMO the reliability is there with rotors if you TUNE THEM PROPERLY! most people take short cuts and pop them... simple as that. I saw a single turbo 13b go through an entire drag season running consistent 8's and never let go. The fuel consumption is an issue for most people though and IMO *just my opinion kids* they are a bit "higher strung" then a piston engine.

I guess the real question is can you afford to fuel and properly tune a rotary?

if not... don't get one.

LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

Unless u have a thing for restoration, I'd suggest getting a s5 rotary instead. I mean, yea its nice to know you have a rare car, but if your gonna mod the hell out of it, may as well go with a generic brand.

Second, I would never recommend buying a mod'ed car in the first place, or selling one either (you get more money piecing it out). It's like taking a gamble, you don't know what the dudes done to it. A lot of people will buy an rx7, play with it, rewire it, add random mods too it as a learning experience, which is never good for you as a buyer.

Buuut, you get to join the secret 10th ae fan club if you get it, lolz

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

IS it just me noticing this, or does no-one wash/vacumme thier cars anymore before trying to sell it....????

LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

Yea i know, u could get an extra 200 at least out of its base value just for vacuume/washing their car.

Nicademus

This is what the guy told me:

It's all up to you. Funny thing is, I would be keeping the car, but I'm building a AE86, so I need the space for that project. Really the best thing to do if you are thinking about getting one of these is to assume a rebuild. If you took my car per say, and got a rebuilt engine, you should have an awesome running car for years to come. One place I would suggest is pineapple racing since I've heard their service is excellent, plus they have a warranty. I was thinking of doing this myself, but I'd rather spend an extra $2500 on my project than on this car since I will be driving the 86 more.

http://web.archive.org/web/200608191...elistSvcs.html

In the end it's all up to you. I personally kept the car around so long just because it does look awesome, but sometimes when there's not money or space I can't justify having so many cars.

-Brandon

LogicFoxX

iTrader: (2)

Actually I live inTacoma, and I recommend either Atkins Rotary (really friendly people and good parts on hand) that also live in Tacoma, or Corksport down in Vancouver.