elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

Hey, no company makes cold air intakes for the rx7's so i was wondering, if using an air duct ( http://www.rhdjapan.com/billion-supe...x-1000mm-51547 ) with a filter of course and direct it outside for some nice cool air, would that be a wise decision? Any power gains or power loss due to the extended length of air traveling from the filter to the engine? I'm sure i'm not the first person to wonder this.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm, JDM dryer vent hose...is Home Depot not exotic enough for you?

Lots of people have fabbed up intakes (myself included) and I think the best you can say is that it does clean up/simplify the bay.

Evil Aviator

Er, the stock FC RX-7 comes with a cold air intake.

Also, Mariah and Corksport sell aftermarket cold air intakes.
http://www.mariahmotorsports.com/
http://www.corksport.com/autoexe-ram...-system-1.html

The Mazda Competition Preparation and Service Manual recommends a 6x3.5" inlet feeding a donut-type filter in a custom round case. Here is a racing intaked based somewhat on the Mazda recommendation:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/epconv.htm

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

Clokker- Your write up was amazing, i haven't seen anyone do that yet till you posted. Home Depot vent hose is fine, rhdjapan just had good pics. Have you noticed any noticeable power gains or power losses?
EvilAviator- the Mariah intake box is nice! The corksport is nice too but too expensive for me, almost $700. But i was looking more at what Clokker did to his car.
Thanks!

Evil Aviator

OK, if you were planning to place the filter in the front, then yes, the tube will cause a slight loss of power.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

I'm a fan of the fender filter/ brake duct job. YES you cut a hole in your car, but it's your car and your choice, i did it on my vert and i did it on my 10TH ae.

if you did a CAI and you didn't notice any change in performance, you did something wrong, or your engine was not running correctly in the first place(5&6PI, VDI, WEAK spark, or clogged fuel filter).

i got another stock vert a week ago, if i can't sell it, i'm going to dyno before and after for serveral mods.. including aux port inserts, either the pineapples or some custom ****.( jb weld?) jk =}

sadly, most performance drops a bit once the intake manifolds heat up, now if you could keep them cool as the air coming in.. hmmm...

clokker

iTrader: (2)

This assumes that the stock intake is so pathetic that we can go to Lowes and cobble in something in a day that surpasses the efforts of the factory engineers.

If you really want to make that assumption, I'd like to see better than butt dyno proof.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

who would engineer an intake that requires removing the inner fender plastic shroud to change an air filter that gets super dirty with only a few months of driving on a few dirt roads occationally.

A. they wouldn't, even with dirt roads out of the question.

B, maybe they have a problem with a little water going through the filter and in the engine, i sure don't give a ****. i've sucked up over a gallon of water and shot it back out the muffer, that motor only went 165k miles, before the compression got below 75.

C if i did provide a dyno sheet and backed up my claims well then i would still have someone trying to destory my creditability by fudging the numbers with some bullshit internet webz calulations.

i think since this new vert is auto, i may be able to get some before and after track times, and even better, i can swap out the stock box so the test results will be back to back. this will eliminate the diffrence in airtemp/humidity possibility. i will also be averaging a few runs. lets say 3 old 3 new.

it wasn't lowes OR home depot, it was pepboys.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I don't understand why, given a clean slate to begin with, you'd intentionally choose to put your filter in such a hazardous location when a completely suitable spot in front of the rad is available with the same amount of work (drill one big hole in the sheetmetal). If the airflow through the nose is good enough for the cooling system, why wouldn't it suffice for the intake as well, rather than divert the already puny brake cooling duct to that purpose?

But maybe that's just me.

A back to back dyno comparison is rather hard to dispute...much more so than any track time data which includes the driver as a variable.

Be interesting to see what you come up with though.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

the surface area of the radiator compaired to the tiny air filter you've choosen is quite a large diffrence. i dont think it's a bad spot, but it's the small pipes and tube, i used 3in intAKE PIPE TO A 3.5IN filter, this is was on my First vert, but i have one simular on my turbo2, which is really easy to pick up power with a TID and intake. but thats apples to oranges.


it's a street car, if it was a track car, it would surely have rad spliter and some sort of RAM air intake, and upgraded brake ducts also.
it's an auto, rev to what the brakes will hold and let go at the tree, i personally think drag times are a good indication of gains in power, and a good indictor if you have a problem, like power drop form things like compression loss.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...old+air+intake

That thread helped me to decide in going the fender route.

Cosmo_TT

iTrader: (11)

its an auto non turbo, save your money and time and just drive the thing. not worth spending all that time and money to drop your et from 17.1 to 17.05

lol

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

my money? were did i list i was spending money? it needs a rebuilt anyway, if thats what you mean.

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

go for it!