Oh Shiznelle!

Well, to start of the story, my boss is walking out of Best Buy (and he always rags on my car joking around, he's one of those guys who loves to talk about his friends car but drivers a big F-150 thats slow as hell) as I'm getting into my car so I start it up and he gets a big grin on his face...

My intentions were good, smoke him go home and make fun of him tomorrow, so I get up to the light and he's right behind me and these girls start asking me a bunch of questions in their little flirty way, so I got this great idea to spin the tires a little bit...

I did that, and a little bit more, I lit them up for at least five or six building lengths, and for like three of those, it was pegged at 9k rpm - WHICH WAS NOT MY INTENTION, I was more concentrated on the road and my red line buzzer DIDNT go off for some reason but as soon as I saw I let off.

Anyways, this leads me to the next thing, when I hit my brakes the CD Player would turn off...keep in mind this is not the first time its done this, it did it like two weeks ago and stopped for some reason...I figured the big BIG burn out didnt help but now I get to hunt a ghost down.

Is it a grounding issue within the system, a short - I'm still learning my way around electronics cars wise - computers I know them up and down.

I've also noticed that my cars grounding system looks like CRAP to me, as in when I grounded out my UIM, it helped out my cars performance a lot as it used to have a HUGE dead spot in the power, now its pretty steady but theres still some dead spots through out the range...so I figure I'm going to have to reground EVERYTHING and start over with huge, non-corrosive grounds (such as one of the A'PEXi Kits or something of that nature, as I don't feel like making new terminals, etc).

 

i had the exact same problem it was the battery terminal it was corrded as hell i drove to work on the highway then hit the brakes everything would shut off. turn the car off then i try to start it and got nothing some how mu battery would drain itself with in 1 crank and then i looked at the possitive termanal and it looked nasty so i cleaned it off with some coke a cola and a wire brush and havent had a problem since and its been about 4 months

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/hit-brakes-whole-elctrical-system-shuts-off-even-power-steering-443628/

 

My dad works at Bellsouth, so I have access to industrial strength dielectric grease (those HUGE *** generators at the telephone offices) - my positive does look kind of crappy come to think about it, I'll just go buy new terminals and coat the hell out of it with d. grease.

 

just make sure they are clean its all about basic maintinance but im sure that stuff will work

 

I've had no problems with voltage - yet I suppose!

 

neither did i, i ran the same test on it numerous times and even took to a mechanic and they ran a test on my voltage and it came back fine but when i hit the brakes it still happened

 

The positive terminal is crap, I've thought about replacing it before...the ground side isnt so bad...

The pink is from a spray that makes acid corrosion turn pink foam.

 

i would go ahead and replace it

 

Are there any points to replacing it with a Higher Quality Terminal, such as a gold plated, etc?

I've seen some of the grounding system claim the gold plating reduces resistance, so I figure that might increase the whole effectivness of the system!

Also, seeing the weight balance (50 in the front, 48.9 in the back) I'm thinking about buying a red-top optima battery because mine's old anyways, the increased weight ratio would be nice but I don't think I would notice a difference!

I've heard the red top batterys have a higher cranking amperage, etc.

 

gold just lets the electricity flow better there is less resistance. well man i got to get back to work any more questions pm me or somethin

 

Alright, I appreciate it!

 

Forgot to mention! (Reviving an old thread)...

The reason why my brakes kept making my CD Player turn off is because my positive cable was COMPLETLEY disconnected...apparently when I did the burn out (i get a bit of wheel hop in the lower rpm range for just a second on a burn out, on a hard launch its defintley noticable) it made that peice of junk terminal just SLIDE OFF!

All walmart has are the new style ones, I really don't feel like converting anything, sigh...

 

No. But what you do want to replace it with is an OEM direct replacement. Should be available at most auto parts stores,but you can also order from Mazda. May require some slight harness surgery. The replacement battery terminals are only designed for temporary use and become very poor after a while. The OEM style cables have lugs that are cast directly onto the cable and are thus much more resistant to corrosion. Remember the dielectric grease on every connection.

People claim a lot of things. The most conductive metal is actually silver. followed by pure copper. Gold is a distant 3rd. Funny that you see very few silver or copper plated battery terminals since it's not as blingish...

 

Copper for the win. Sodder-able

 

Silver is pretty easy to solder, but kind of expensive and I've never seen silver battery lugs. Never really seen copper ones either, but there's a reason wires are made of copper. Actually silver wires are used in some applications where VERY low signal loss is required (ie. some microprocessors).