They said that the they never got the oil pressure to go below 10psi at idle, and they said there was no real problem with it??? The tech there said that they recently had a 20B that had this same problem, and it's no big deal.

The tech also said that they didn't want to take the car apart to do unneccisary work. Am I going to spin a bearing or something now? I am super nervous about driving the car, is it really as big a deal as I am making it out to be?

 

rule of thumb is usually 10 psi per thousand rpm

 

it doesnt really need much oil pressure at idle, whats the psi at 4000rpms?

or

if you're that worried, just have the work done

 

That was my major concearn mike, last time I checked I was getting 45-50psi at 3k and above. I am going to call them again in a little bit and ask what they thought about the high end oil pressure.

And is there any better places to check the oil pressure than the location of the stock sender. Cuz right now I have part of a stock sensor that I cut the top off of and machined to put a NPT plug for a mechanical gauge.

 

I get near zero Psi at idle, but 60 psi at 3k

 

The stock location is actually in a pretty good place- right before the filter...That is good for early indications of filter clogging problems & such...Do have the stock pressure regulator & relief valves installed?...

 

Yeah, it's a completely stock rebuild.

 

You install the thermal pellet plug below the front bolt? Remember to install the big spring with it? Using a new type of oil filter? Sure the front cover o-ring didn't move on ya?

 

I got an atkins pellet replacement, spring was installed with it. Same oil filter that I have been using with this rebuild since day one. And the oring coudl have moved, but it would have been after the fact, because the motor had awsome oil pressure with oil that was very much thinned out with oil.

And something else I forgot to mention. This motor still makes great pressure when the oil is cold.

 

oil thins as it gets hotter, so a small drop in psi is normal. what are you running? maybe try the next thicker grade?

 

20w50, don't think I can go any thicker. How could the pressure ahve been just fine when the oil was really thin from having so much gas in it, then I put in 20w50 and it goes to crap.

 

nope, lol gear oil...

 

Well I guess I could try to 75w90. I am sure teh pressure could come up then

 

You didn't run with a lot of gas in the oil so long you trashed the bearings, I hope (that's about the only thing I worry about with the "gas in the oil" thing)...Mine drops a little when hot, too, after the rebuild, but it doesn't drop below 30 at idle...

 

title updated to actually have thread info in it.

And oil PSI should be between 64-78 psi at 3000 rpm.

 

mines 30 at idle 60 at freeway speeds.... PERFECT

 

Wow thanks for the awsome info NATurbo. Is there anything other than the front cover oring that could cause a problem like that. I'll try getting a mazda filter and change the oil again.

Well I have been told by many ppl that they know their stuff so I will trust them. But I am going to save up and have another motor built and ready to go.

 

Here is an update, I decided to drive the car back today, along the dive the idle pressure was near zero @idle , and only getting 30-35psi max, I tried keeping the revs low.

So I am decided that I will just remove the front cover myself and replace the oring.

I guess I will be needing the early casting gasket, the oring, and some RTV to seal up the pan to cover gasket since I am not going to be removing the oil pan. Is there anything else that I will need to buy like MOP gasket or something along those lines?