Shooting For 380-400WHP On A Circuit Car -> What Will I need?
08-12-07, 10:31 PM
#1
8000...9000...*BUZZ*
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Shooting For 380-400WHP On A Circuit Car -> What Will I need?
I've been doing some preliminary planing, and thought i would post my potential setup here for the more experienced members to critique and/or correct me or offer up suggestions for a component that would be better suited to the job.
Car Use: Circuit Car --> Time Attacks and lapping days first...but will transition it into Touring car racing once the bugs are worked out. Touring cars run 30 minute sessions as I recall...with one multi-hour enduro race per season.
Will divide the build into TWO seasons:
1st Season: Installing the motor, ironing out the kinks, before chasing the higher HP.
2nd season: super happytime boost w00h00
So For The First Season
Enginewise:
- JDM S5 Turbo II (rebuild it of course).
- Additional fueling (walbro pump, stainless braided AN lines etc etc)
- PowerFC w/commander
- Racing Beat Dual Racing Exhaust (i still need to keep the car somewhat quiet so i can pass sound at one of the courses..and so i can drive it up there with plates)
- Work on improving the cooling: Koyo Alu Rad, better intake, replace the ratty oil coolers that are on there now.
Then for the actual 2nd Season buildup time:
- GT40 series turbo (havn't settled on which specifically, still researching)
- Greddy 2 Row FMIC
- 720cc primaries, 1600cc secondaries
- Porting? Will it be necessary and if so, how aggressive?
It's late, so i'm sure there's a bunch more things i'm forgetting to list, but what else will be needed to get the car to safely/reliably hit my desired power level.
Car Use: Circuit Car --> Time Attacks and lapping days first...but will transition it into Touring car racing once the bugs are worked out. Touring cars run 30 minute sessions as I recall...with one multi-hour enduro race per season.
Will divide the build into TWO seasons:
1st Season: Installing the motor, ironing out the kinks, before chasing the higher HP.
2nd season: super happytime boost w00h00
So For The First Season
Enginewise:
- JDM S5 Turbo II (rebuild it of course).
- Additional fueling (walbro pump, stainless braided AN lines etc etc)
- PowerFC w/commander
- Racing Beat Dual Racing Exhaust (i still need to keep the car somewhat quiet so i can pass sound at one of the courses..and so i can drive it up there with plates)
- Work on improving the cooling: Koyo Alu Rad, better intake, replace the ratty oil coolers that are on there now.
Then for the actual 2nd Season buildup time:
- GT40 series turbo (havn't settled on which specifically, still researching)
- Greddy 2 Row FMIC
- 720cc primaries, 1600cc secondaries
- Porting? Will it be necessary and if so, how aggressive?
It's late, so i'm sure there's a bunch more things i'm forgetting to list, but what else will be needed to get the car to safely/reliably hit my desired power level.
08-12-07, 10:50 PM
#3
For the power level you're looking for a gt40 will do the job and then some, but wouldn't you want a turbo with better response? And for cooling reasons a v-mount setup would be more beneficial than the front mount plus some ducting would be in order.
08-12-07, 10:52 PM
#4
Where is my Life ?
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: ottawa canada
Posts: 2,175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A good way of doing things without spending too too much:
Street port engine, intake and exhaust *do all the oil mods ** ex. eshaft, loop oil race pressure regulator
delete omp , run premix
run fully divided manifold ( get FD one are reweld if your on budget )
to4S 60-1 turbo .96 if exist if not the 1.00 divided turbine p trim
50mm wastegate
3" full exhaust with a turn down muffler to the ground ( incase theres DB testing wich there is alot now in ON ).
haltech E8 or E11 or even e6x ( like this you make a brand new harness with power Fc you use old rotty stock one ) new harness = Much MUCH less hassle and tunning is just as good.
run 550 1600 combo or even 720 1600
external FPR
marren pulsation dampener
walbro pump as you said,
Fuel sump system
upgraded intercooler ( think of V mount with vented hood )
Upgraded rad
REALLY good ducting to rad and OIL COOLER
TB mod
port match intakes to irons ( very little might as well do it )
a ebc profec b works good ( get a 10 psi spring for the 300-320 hp and then bring boost up to 15-17 for the 380-390 hp) on 94 octane
you dont need stainless steel fuel lines, just new rubber ones with good clamps much cheaper and works exactly the same
get SS oil lines
relocate battery to back
fill chassy with hardening foam and roll cage
a good set of stance coilovers
an ingnition amp for leading atleast jacobs FC1000 works awesome
and spark plugs run ATLEAST 9;s allaround if possible try to run ngk raceplugs or iridium 10s wich are cheaper than race plugs ( about $ 8 a piece at CT or partsource ). and good wires
and good tune
good tires on some 17x8 fronts and 17x9 rears or 17x10
and good pads
SS brake lines
then delete
sunroof
heater core
That should be the best reliable setup
edit:
if you want super good response ( for autox style or just awesome track responce then go with a .84 ptrim hotside instead of the 1.00 divided ).
Street port engine, intake and exhaust *do all the oil mods ** ex. eshaft, loop oil race pressure regulator
delete omp , run premix
run fully divided manifold ( get FD one are reweld if your on budget )
to4S 60-1 turbo .96 if exist if not the 1.00 divided turbine p trim
50mm wastegate
3" full exhaust with a turn down muffler to the ground ( incase theres DB testing wich there is alot now in ON ).
haltech E8 or E11 or even e6x ( like this you make a brand new harness with power Fc you use old rotty stock one ) new harness = Much MUCH less hassle and tunning is just as good.
run 550 1600 combo or even 720 1600
external FPR
marren pulsation dampener
walbro pump as you said,
Fuel sump system
upgraded intercooler ( think of V mount with vented hood )
Upgraded rad
REALLY good ducting to rad and OIL COOLER
TB mod
port match intakes to irons ( very little might as well do it )
a ebc profec b works good ( get a 10 psi spring for the 300-320 hp and then bring boost up to 15-17 for the 380-390 hp) on 94 octane
you dont need stainless steel fuel lines, just new rubber ones with good clamps much cheaper and works exactly the same
get SS oil lines
relocate battery to back
fill chassy with hardening foam and roll cage
a good set of stance coilovers
an ingnition amp for leading atleast jacobs FC1000 works awesome
and spark plugs run ATLEAST 9;s allaround if possible try to run ngk raceplugs or iridium 10s wich are cheaper than race plugs ( about $ 8 a piece at CT or partsource ). and good wires
and good tune
good tires on some 17x8 fronts and 17x9 rears or 17x10
and good pads
SS brake lines
then delete
sunroof
heater core
That should be the best reliable setup
edit:
if you want super good response ( for autox style or just awesome track responce then go with a .84 ptrim hotside instead of the 1.00 divided ).
Last edited by FC3S.USD; 08-12-07 at 11:05 PM.
08-12-07, 11:02 PM
#5
The Firestarter
most of all your money is gona go into chassis work and brakes, and suspension
What you really need is a engine that will last longer.
Stronger seals, water jacket mod, oil dowels, all cooling options
along with that a good sized turbo with the port you desire
a stable and more accurate fuel setup
Stronger ignition and a EMS to controll everything
300-400rwhp is easy to obtain in a 13bt/13bre/13brew.
But engine work is nothing compaired to the amount of money you are about to spend on a chassy that gets you the fastest lap times.
What you really need is a engine that will last longer.
Stronger seals, water jacket mod, oil dowels, all cooling options
along with that a good sized turbo with the port you desire
a stable and more accurate fuel setup
Stronger ignition and a EMS to controll everything
300-400rwhp is easy to obtain in a 13bt/13bre/13brew.
But engine work is nothing compaired to the amount of money you are about to spend on a chassy that gets you the fastest lap times.
08-12-07, 11:42 PM
#7
Saiga-12 Power!
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: N of Chicago
Posts: 4,384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A GT35R will be much better than a GT40 for your goals. It will hit the power your looking for and have better response.
The stock FC oil cooler is about the best you can get for the car. Flush it out, clean it up, and straighten any bent fins. Then get some good ducting for it along with some SS lines and you should be fine.
The stock FC oil cooler is about the best you can get for the car. Flush it out, clean it up, and straighten any bent fins. Then get some good ducting for it along with some SS lines and you should be fine.
Trending Topics
08-12-07, 11:42 PM
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: st. louis
Posts: 1,000
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
heres my $.02
rebuild the engine. dont half *** anything. do it right the first time.
port it while you are at it. either a full bridge or a street port. dont waste your time with a hbp, its a track car.
get a haltech or some other standalone. you dont want to deal with an old nasty wiring harness. pick an ecu that you can tune or one that your tuner is familiar wiht.
upgrade the ignition.
vmount
fuel system. either get a sump, fuel cell or a surge tank so you dont have to deal with fuel starvation issues
as for an exhaust, run a nice strait through exhaust. i know a few people on here have done some custom 4" setups that arent to loud.
do your suspension/brakes/tires ill let someone else make recommendations on this.
what ever you expect to spend multiply it by 2 and you are probably getting close to how much it is going to cost. but maybe i just suck at making a budget and sticking to it
rebuild the engine. dont half *** anything. do it right the first time.
port it while you are at it. either a full bridge or a street port. dont waste your time with a hbp, its a track car.
get a haltech or some other standalone. you dont want to deal with an old nasty wiring harness. pick an ecu that you can tune or one that your tuner is familiar wiht.
upgrade the ignition.
vmount
fuel system. either get a sump, fuel cell or a surge tank so you dont have to deal with fuel starvation issues
as for an exhaust, run a nice strait through exhaust. i know a few people on here have done some custom 4" setups that arent to loud.
do your suspension/brakes/tires ill let someone else make recommendations on this.
what ever you expect to spend multiply it by 2 and you are probably getting close to how much it is going to cost. but maybe i just suck at making a budget and sticking to it
08-13-07, 08:20 AM
#10
8000...9000...*BUZZ*
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 609
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ted: Running R-comps at the moment...will plan on upgrading to slicks later..but only after i practice my driving and can wring out as much as i can from the R's and get perfectly used to how they break away and stuff.
wackaloo13: agreed, i hate half assing things and would definitly want to do everything right the first time around. Having said that though, i do have a brand new mazda FC turbo harness to go in with the motor that i picked up at a great price and would like to use...also you mentioned tuner familiarity: in this area it seems that PowerFC is what most people know which is why I wanted to stick in that ballpark. If it is really just better to scrap the stock harness and go custom, then so be it, but if age of the wiring and cracking is the issue, then i've got the new one i can use.
Wingofwar: thanks for the recomendations. Forgot to mention that the chassis and suspension are already FULLY upgraded. It will be getting its rollcage over the winter or next spring. The only weak link at the moment is the motor.
wackaloo13: agreed, i hate half assing things and would definitly want to do everything right the first time around. Having said that though, i do have a brand new mazda FC turbo harness to go in with the motor that i picked up at a great price and would like to use...also you mentioned tuner familiarity: in this area it seems that PowerFC is what most people know which is why I wanted to stick in that ballpark. If it is really just better to scrap the stock harness and go custom, then so be it, but if age of the wiring and cracking is the issue, then i've got the new one i can use.
Wingofwar: thanks for the recomendations. Forgot to mention that the chassis and suspension are already FULLY upgraded. It will be getting its rollcage over the winter or next spring. The only weak link at the moment is the motor.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
