I've seen the threads about swapping S5 rubstrips onto S4 cars. Has anyone smoothed out the area? Or just removed the strips and just left the valley? I think our cars already have a nice linebreak in the crease above the door handle, so I was thinking of doing one of these options, but I'd like to see some pics first.

 

I couldnt find a good picture of the shaved one, but speed machine built the silver bullet fc, it has a shaved body line on it, http://www.speedmachineperformance.c...ts.asp?Cat=144

 

check these out:

 

you did a great job wit it but to me the rx7 looks where wit out moldings lol it looks kinda naked but very good job

 

thanks bro I like it it is unique i think.

 

that IS a nice job...and the pics were exactly what I was looking for...now does anyone have any where the strips have been removed and the 'groove' cleaned up?

 

evo-imports.com check out the photo gallery >Ricks rx7. It has them removed and is a siiiiccckkkkk car

 

Looks great, though I still prefer having the mouldings there.

 

when im painting my car im keeping the mouldings out, but im keeping the "dents" from them, kinda like the mazdaspeed blue 7 with the FD front bumper...but i wont have that bumper.

Zak

 

kool bro post pics of on here when you finish her

 

that is one sweet seven

how hard is it to smooth out that valley becuase, wow, it makes the car look like its new

 

Yes, looks hot it isnt too hard you can do it the easy way or the right way. I think it is 3M or PPG makes a bonding agent used for shaving door handles I used it on mine 3 years ago looks great and lasts well. DO NOT fill it with bondo.

 

NO BONDO. I used fiberglass mat and kitty hair as well.only a thin layer of bondo to smooth it out.

 

hey rex wanna do mine?

 

you are in vermont man LOL

 

took the molding off my doors. Left the valley. Custum bumbers are next.

 

The proper way to shave anything that is metal to begin with is to make a contour template, then cut sheet metal to fit, shape it to the contour gauge, then carefully spot weld in several different spots and keep on going around to form a solid bead to prevent it from distorting too much, smooth out and touch up if need be. Seal it with a base primer and paint, you shouldn't need any filler unless your skills suck, lol.

 

again there is a new chemical bonding agent out there that is as good as welding and was developed so that you do not need to weld the steel panels on.

 

I don't know how to weld but that would have been my first route. However this is my first every body job...hehe skills I am ot worried about its the knowledge and experience I am hungry for...

 

that first FC in the pics, the one w/o the hatch, kinda looks like a really shortbed truck.

 

Here's some shots of mine, just came back from paint yesterday so she's not assembled yet.

Brent

 

The 100% proper way has been demonstrated in my blog. If you dont have the ability I sugest tinvestors way. That stuff runs 80$ a tube. It is fuser something. Very strong used in auto body colishion repair allot. If none of these float you can give fiby itch a try.

 

Do you have any idea how about impossible it will be to not use bondo? The beads you run will never get flush while contouring the metal. The door is so thin I promise you will warp it. Try it and let me know.

 

the car looks incomplete like this

 

It looks very clean. I like it with the rub strips though.