welli have come to a point where ive read and searched for input on setting my idle to factory settings and its almost a loosing battle i have

all i want is to get my idle to 750 at idle and whan i come to a stop it does not die

i have

1-quadruppled checked for vaccum leaks

2- brand knew bac also used fsm settings

3-checked thermowax ...fsm settings

4- BRAND KNEW TPS SET WITH LED BULBS

5-BRAND KNEW STOCK INJECTORS

this t2 seven is all factory...with 83000 miles on it

i have to keep my idle at 1300 for it to not die


HAS ANY ONE A STEP BY STEP FROM BEGINNING TO END

ON HOW TO SET THE IDLE FROM SCRATCH

EVEN IF THIS CAN HELP NEWBIES ...IT WOULD BE SO HELPFUL

 

Have you done a compression test?

Checked the timing?

Did you adjust your idle set screw & cable tension, then set your tps? May have to repeat this process until you get the idle set just right.

 

So the car is stalling on deceleration? Or it simply refuses to ever idle any lower than 1300rpm?

 

I'll ask yet another question. Did you use the propane torch method to check for vacuum leaks?

 

1-propane test done

2-compression test done

the only thing i can think of is the throttle cable if i tighten up on it ,and idle at 1300 its fine and drives fine does not stall....but it wastes gas ..somewhere between the throttle cable tps theres some thing wrong...i dream to have a solid 750 idle

 

I would take the IAC off and check it to see that the Flow of coolant is not Hindered.
They have a tendency to Fill up with Crud from the coolant(rust and ****) .then they play havoc with your idle.
I took off all my emissions related stuff when I did a TII swap,.and I put an FD upper on.
Now,it doesn't Idle when cold(off the Bat).But once the car is Warm,the darn thing Idles Bang on at 800.(FSM I think says 750 plus or minus 10 percent??) So I am happy.

 

do you meen you have to hold your foot on the pedal..till it gets warm

 

Dennis.Basically ya.
I start the car up and let it Rev about 1200-1500 by Foot.
I watch my Wideband change from 14.9 to around 12.6 or so,then I take it out of the park(mobile parK) slowly.
I live about a Mile away from the main Highway,so I cruise about 60-70 kph to the "main stop sign.It is THERE that I can get the car ro Idle on it's own without having to feather the gas.
It is Fine after that.
I have a Bit of a Hot start problem,but I know what that problem is.When I get the car Started up again I can just Take my foot off the gas and let it idle with no issue.
After the car is warm,it will idle at Stop signs,etc with no Problem.
The Downside of Removing emissions is the Part that the Cold Start and warm yo assists are no longer there to Help you.
The Upside is Cleaner looking engine bay,no extra vacuum lines and the simplicity of The engine and it's components.
Having no extra **** on the engine it is easier to "diagnose"( I find) if something goes haywire.No too many parts to Look at if something does happen.
Anyways,I may be a little off topic,but that is Some info that my help you,or make you want to keep if you decide to go "bare" in teh emissions Department.
.Emission tests should be OK with a Working air pump,good tune(plugs,wires,.etc) and a GOOD HI flo cat..The solenoids on the rat's nest are just "extra Crap' in my opinion.If the car is OK,internally(good compression and good seals, operational sensors to help the Ecu maintain correct Fuel Correction), and Runs OK on the Steet/Highways,then the car should by Rights pass an Etest.
I haven't heard of anyone passing an Etsest without a Good cat,.and air pump.So those two components are crucial.
I hope that helps,Ch.eers Dave

 

I was trying to find the same thing, but I have yet to compression test, leak test or checked timing.

I took off my stock cat + unhooked the air pump, but now she will die at a stop sign when she's cold. I don't get it...

If I can remove my rats nest + still pass emissions then I'm going to do it. That **** bothers me a lot!

 

could the ecu cause this or something worn out