2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Serious Electric problems

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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 01:23 PM
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Arrow Serious Electric problems

OK i thought for a while that my alternator was bad but i tested it today and its runnign 13-14 watts which is good. However i now see when i turn on my lights the idle drops from just over 1000 down to 500-750 and it starts to run funny. Louder and rougher. The engine begins to shake more violently. What the hell is going on????!!!!! Please help me


ps. I also am havign a problem gettign one headlight up. Fuses are good, the passenegr headlight pops up but not the drivers. Any ideas?
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 01:30 PM
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I think you just posted your resolution, Disconnect your headlight motor and see if that has any effect on the idle problem.

In a nutshell if the motor is jammed it will draw more current from the electrical system which will cause the alternator to attempt to generate more power which causes a load on your engine.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 01:33 PM
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DEEP!! thanks alot. Ill check that out asap. HAs anyone else had thta problem? How would I go about fixing my headlights?
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 04:23 PM
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Grounds......it can't hurt to add grounds.

The headlight motor might be bad, linkage is kinked or might even need some grease. The headlight motors aren't the strongest out there, I haven't had any problems with mine, but I have read about quite a few on here.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 05:26 PM
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I tried disconnecting it today. My whole electrical system is a ******* mess. So much splicing and electrical tape I dont knwo what to dc, at all. I hear the motor trying to move when i turn the lights on, but it doesnt pop up. I think there may be a physical problem with the asssembly. Im gonna get it checked out at my parents mechanic soon as i get some plates on her.

NEW QUESTION:

Ok sinc ei ahve got it back there has been a large mess of wiring just hanging from under the drivers side dash. I went to clean it up today and realized 2 things.
1, there is nothing physically there to hold the bundle back. What am I missing? Is ther supposed to eb a piece of panellign there? If so does anyone have one for sale, I am in desperate need. They all flal on my clutch and brake pedals even when bound with zip ties

2, There are 2 white clips about an inch wide that arent connected to anything. they dont connect to eachother. AM I missing something else? Everything seems to be working fine but this bothers me.
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Old Dec 8, 2004 | 09:56 PM
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bump
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 12:15 AM
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Sounds like either someone did a hack job when the auto tranny was installed or someone did a hack job when installing a aftermarket stereo. Your best bet to clean up the wiring is to solder the cut or spliced connections together and use Heat shrink tubing or liquid electrical tape to seal up the wiring. Don't rely on electrical tape. Some tapes become corosive when exposed to heat. as for bundling the wires together, use standard zip ties to tie up the wires then secure them to the underside of the dash or whereever your repairing the wiring. Take care to keep any wiring away from places it can rub.
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 11:03 AM
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^^^^^ So those useless connectors have somthing to do with the fact that may car was once automatic?
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Old Dec 9, 2004 | 12:49 PM
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Your problem may be the BAC valve. Does the same thing happen when you turn AC on or hit the brakes? The BAC makes up for the power loss (engine power) when more load is put on the engine via the alternator or AC or any other power accessories. It may be a long shot, but it could be your problem.

-Joe
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Old Dec 10, 2004 | 11:49 AM
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^^^Does what occour when i hit the brakes? also where and what is my BAC valve? i know thats a dumb question , but i really dont know.

Last edited by I EAT CIVICS; Dec 10, 2004 at 11:57 AM.
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