cwsttu

ok got tired of no torque and having my ports wired open (custom exhaust and headers so no working ports now) so i figure hell ill just pull off the manifolds and remove them... no problem right? haha wrong with my luck

uim and everything else came off no problem, done it to many times... however this is the first time ive had to take off the lim on this rex... well the gasket had gone to **** and came off in pieces, then during the removal of some bolts my lovely OMP lines shatter at the ends where the banjo bolt is, then the 4 way tee for the omp lines also breaks in two places, so im pissed off about that

then i remove the pieces of gasket off the lim but i didnt get a good look at one side of the block and didnt see there was a chunk of it still left on there, how did i figure out it was there you ask? well i heard a SNAP when i bolted it all back on... yup you guessed it i cracked my lower intake manifold, not all the way but a hairline crack on the outside corner.. now im really pissed

then i come inside for the night and research some on the board about premix and decide to just do that instead of buy new omp lines and crap, and today i JB welded the outside of the manifold to see if it would work, and bought bolts to block off the omp injectors, after some custom work on the bolts and crap i bolt everything back onto the car put in 5 gal of premix plus extra for the gas already in there... god its hard to start sounds terrible...

i do my fast unflood procedure, no luck, pull the fuses, no luck... i finally just bite the bullet and pull the spark plugs and clean them all down with a wire brush and then after about a few tries still trying to unflood it it finally fires up with my method of getting it to run...

as for the leaks.. guess they are non existant, car ran at a bare 300 rpm idle until i tweaked up the dashpot and adjusted the idle screw along with resetting the tps.. now the car idles at a rock solid 900 rpms and **** man the thing now feels great all through the powerband... my torque came back alot more than it had, i can tell by how little gas i have to use now when i ease off the clutch and how much harder it pulls...

now that its over im glad i did it and love how it feels and drives now, sorry for it being so long heh but any questions id be happy to answer them or if you want a follow up of how the car runs when i can test it in dry weather

SureShot

NA's are a piece of cake, but the LIM gasket is a legendary PITA.
Just wait till you get your hands on a turbo.
Or better yet, an FD!

These cars can be a lifetime hobby.

cwsttu

haha i can imagine... now i have a new problem... my torque is back and i cant stay in a straight line... man i need new tires bad

casio

i guess the crack wasnt bad..? i have a spare S5 intake manifold (complete). sounds like its working out for ya. good job!

bingoboy

so you went from stuck open sleaves to removed sleaves and you got more torque out of that?

StonedDrone

How did you end up with more low end torque when you went from wired open ports to removed sleeves? Something doesn't sound right there....

cwsttu

my ports were not stuck open, they worked fine however when i put my headers and custom exhaust on i no longer had any backpressure so i wired them to stay open so i could still have my power up top.... however when you wire them open you lose your torque.... vice versa with them wired closed.... when i removed them now they flow all the time so i gain everywhere.... of course i might lose just a tad torque but nothing like i had lost having them wired open .. you see what im saying?

casio

thats what they're saying. you made it sound like you gained down low when that is the exact opposite of what is believed to happen.

Dom_C

I did the same thing. . minus breaking stuff. . haha Anyways i have the same opinion. I now have more than enough low end for my purposes. . and my car is a daily driver. You don't loose any torque over all by doing this, it is just shifted a little higher up in the rpm range. I do have dyno proof of this. But after removing the sleeves i also installed a RB header and an s5 upper so the resuslt are queed (sp) a little but not much. with the ports in there my peak torque was at like 120, after the removal and the other mods i was up to 128. This was on a very weak motor by the way. I only made 134.8 hp witht he header s5 upper and a 2.5inch straight through headerback. with electric fan and other goodies. just my input
Dom

MRX_Rotary

It cost me ~$20 to just rebuild my OMP lines with teflon, incase you don't want to mess with premix.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/rebuilding-omp-oil-injection-lines-348068/

cwsttu

sorry i didnt mean to mislead anybody... but i guess you see what im saying now right?

here check out my new thread

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...16#post3811716

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

Having an auxiliary port wired open constantly, and having the sleeve removed from the port altogether (leaving it, surprise, constantly open) are absolutely equivalent. The only gains you receive are from removal of the rod in the sleeve, and the rod that turns the sleeve in the manifold. Perhaps one of your (wired open) ports had closed itself and you didnt know it, and now you feel like you have more power because they're open. Otherwise, I respectfully call

Tofuball

5 gallons of premix?????

I wonder why it was hard to start :-p

cwsttu

ok rotary resurection... i appreciate you being respectable about this.... i have researched it and found some dynos about removing the sleeves do provide more torque than just having them wired open... now im not at all saying i gained mad torque or anything like that, but i did notice however that after i removed the ports i do not have to let out on the clutch as much to move the car, its smoother and easier to drive in 1st and 2nd gears with the ports removed compared to wired open... i do not have dynos and im not saying i gained alot but i do feel a bit of improvement however little it may be... also im having a problem now with keeping traction throughout 1st and 2nd gear now.... naturally i assumed i gained a bit of torque because of this... i am not challenging your words because you know far more than me about rotaries but i just felt i should share my exp with this and what i came to conclude... you might have hit the nail about what i felt when you said any gains i got were from removing the rods and sleeves, so that must be what im talking about as far as the improvement i felt... feel free to continue any discussion you might have or any other valid points you might have to add... thanks again

christopher

casio

was your TPS far off? my previous TPS was showing .2v at idle (full range; s5 tps) which was out of spec. after replacing my TPS with another, which showed .8v (via safcII), i noticed more low end. like you said, you had to adjust your tps. depending how off it was on your low end, you may have gained there (i would think).

as for removing the rod, are you referring to (only one i can think of) the rod that physically turns the aux port sleeve?? we tried removing mine, but the screws were IN THERE. it wouldn't budge. i have no sleeves (slightly ported; more like "honed"), but i still have the rod that turned the sleeve. it would NOT BUDGE.

cwsttu

well i had to dremel out the screws heh... i just dremeled a line in the middle of the head and used a flathead to turn them out (make sense) easier than a easy out too then just hammered out the rods and sealed the hole up with a dime and JB weld.... and no my tps was at 1.007 volts and i just turned it down a hair to .997 volts so my tps was pretty much adjusted

Tofuball

The way I got the screws out was I used an impact driver. I HIGHLY reccomend this tool for anyone who works on older vehicles. I used the same tool to remove the screws from my TB.

It is basically a device you put a phillips screwdriver head in and hit it with a hammer, and it takes the screw right off.

I got mine at an antique show for $11