just want to be sure thats the water temp sensor before i drain my coolant and replace it with the autometer one

 

yeah, but your autmeter unit may not be the correct thread to fit into that hole... you may need some sort of adapter, or to re-thread the hole(if thats even possible?).

 

it comes with adapters but i was told by a rotary guy its the same thread...we'll find out i suppose...but thanx for the confirmation on location

 

Wait wait, isn't that the oil pressure sensor?! For the gauge??

The water temp sensor is on the waterpump/filler neck...??

 

its the coolant temp sensor...

just tore my room apart and found a haynes to make sure...good thing my buddy left it over here

 

The oil pressure sensor is the big round sensor directly to the right. The sensor you are referring to would be for the ECU's reading of water temp to adjust fuel trim for a hot or cold car.

 

To clear up any confusion...



Don't use adaptors to install temp gauges. The adaptor will move the sensor back out of the water flow, which slows its response time.

 

yea i've heard the thread on the sensor is the same as the stocker so it should screw right on...havent gotten around to draining my coolant quite yet...should i mount the sensor elsewhere though? if the ecu uses that one to adjust fuel trim trim or is it not that big of a deal?

 

smrty pants with your fancy pickitures.

thanks for the graphic.

 

That sensor does nothing but drive a needle on the water temp gauge. Nothing else.

The water thermo sensor on the back of the water pump HOUSING, is ECU related and lets the ECU know what the water temp is in order to add/subtract fuel. Frankly speaking, I only see one EVENT that sensor does. At around 120 degrees F, the afr seen on my wideband goes leaner one point. Say it starts out at 12.5 afr and now you drive at a steady pace and watch the water temperature on your Palm, and you'll see the afr go to the mid 13's or so. The figures all depend on what your doing at a given time, BUT after the 120 degrees EVENT......frankly I see squat happening as the temps get to say 190 degrees. Just personal observations as seen on a wideband and Palm connected to a RTEK2.0.

 

If it screws right in then you're done. Mazda must've though it was fine so don't make extra work for yourself.

 

alright...awesome...thanks for the quick replies!!

after i finish painting i'll see if it actually screws right in

 

I'd bet a indian head nickle the Auto Meter one won't just screw in without an adapter and if you use an adapter, then the temps won't be right. As in no full flow across the sensor.

 

we will see, i have done it on S6s and i was the one who told him it would fit since i built the motor.

yes that is the coolant temp sensor, you could mount the autometer sensor on the back of the water pump or outlet housing but you need to remove the whole housing to do it properly and that is a pita. the stock temp gauge is a POS(piece of ****) so may as well ditch it though i hate having dead gauges but the stock sensor location is a good one.

 

What model AutoMeter water temp gauge?

 

C2, they use a standard 1/8" NPT sensor, yes i know the stock sensor is not 1/8NPT but it is very close. normally i just run a tap in about half way just to clean out the threads but i have threaded the sensors in without running in the tap before. this is an S5 engine btw, the S4 sensors are no where near a 1/8"NPT before you guys try to chew on my ***.

 

*proceeds to chew ****

I'll have to give that a shot, Thanks for the info.

 

The stock temp sender is either a British pipe thread, or a straight thread depending on year. The Autometer sender is not a direct fit though it is often "close enough" to be forced in (the sender is brass and will deform to fit). Use sealant.

But keep in mind that replacing the stock sender will result in a dead gauge on the dash...very annoying.

 

what kind of sealant should i use?

it'll match my dead oil pressure gauge...SWEET!

 

pipe threads are a taper fit, the stock pipe thread is just one step smaller than the 1/8"NPT so it just doesn't thread in as far but the thread pitch is the same. i use liquid teflon sealant on the threads, if you are worried about it you can get a 1/8" NPT tap and retap the threads but personally i prefer to keep the threads the original size in case you want to reinstall the original sensor.

 

just put your aftermarket gauge in front of it!

 

so liquid teflon on the threads...thread it in til its tight and call it good?

bigtard- i've got the 5one5 triple pod that replaces the idiot cluster. im ntot oo worried about the stock cluster cuz im planning on doing a custom one this summer with the C2 tach, speedo, volt, fuel so that everything matches cuz im **** like that. so the dead gauge is only a temporary annoyance