i have an 1988 gxl with all emissions removed, and it has not run correctly ever since i pulled the emissions stuff. other than the emissions the motor is mostly stock,

my question is if there was a problem with your secondary port accuators could it keep a motor with no emissions from running , my motor will run perfectly above about 3500 rpm but as soon as it falls below this mark, it bogs and stalls out,

I ask this because i know one of my actuators is stuck and i am not sure of the condition of the other

thank you for your help, i really want to drive an rx7 again someday lol
-Dan

 

Sounds like you might have a vaccume leak. Check all the lines you took off making sure you have plugged the necessary ones.

 

sorry i should have put down what all i have checked, i have been through the vac line thing like three times now cause i keep thinking that that is just what it has to be but it is not. no leaks, i had also heard that you had to adjust the throttle body after pulling the emissions and i tried that and no change, i have tested my BAC and it checks out as well as my TPS. i have had two ecu's in the car and two sets of injectors, i have tried putting someof the emissions seloniods back on and nothing. (and yes the ecu's and injectors all matched up as far as impedence,)

i am kinda out of ideas

but i have an s5 motor that might be going into the car soon which i would have already swaped, but i feel like that will just be a whole other can of worms. please help me i am desperate lol
thans
-Dan

 

disconnect your battery so that the AFM can reset if you unplugged it with the battery hooked up. It will store a setting and screw stuff up, so that you have to hold down the gas to get it to run. Not sure if this is what you need to do but thought I would try ?

 

the battery is disconnected pretty often so i dont think that that would be it but thanks for the idea. i have also had two different AFM's in the car
the main thing that really stumps me is that things that would normally really change the way the engine runs barely have any effect on it in its current condition

 

Sounds like a Large air leak. Like maybe not using a gasket for the ACV blockoff plate.

Explain Removed Emissions. What did you remove? Item by item.

There is no reset of a AFM. Never has been, never will be. Nor is there a reset of a series four ECU. Never has been, never will be.

 

as far as things that are gone...
Air pump
acv
all four selonoids
egr
metal spider ( all associated vac lines capped)
not exactly emmisions but OMP, oil injectors and associated vac lines are gone and capped
charcoal canister is gone
sub zero start assist is gone

I am fairly sure that it is not the block off plate for the ACV because it and the air pump were pulled before the rest and the engine has run for long time without them, the intake has been pulled off and put back on, so i suppose it could be one of the intake gaskets but i thought i had it sealed up pretty good when i put it back on. is there any good way to test this?
thank you
-dan

 

ok, i pulled both the UIM and LIM back off and checked and resealed all the gaskets and vac caps and such. if there were any leaks before they are not there now. it is behaving a little differently now but im not sure whether its good or bad. car will still start but now feals exactly like it would if you forgot to plug the AFM in. rpms rise to about 2 or 2.5k and then imediately fall back down as the engine dies. the throttle has little or no effect now. dont know if this is progress or not, but it is change.
keep the ideas coming, i will try anything!
thank you -dan

 

umm your using premix fuel right

 

on the s4's don't the secondary injectors start at 3500 rpm? so maybe there is a problem with the primary injector side, IIRC

 

azdk- yes i am running premix

revs302- i have thought about that but i didnt know exactly how to test it. if it is the primaries, it could be anything from the injectors to the wiring harness to the ecu itself, and i just remembered that i pulled the secondary injector clips off once and fired it up and it ran exactly the same so the primary injectors have to be giving it somethin, just to double check, primaries are the ones that you can only get to through pulling the manifolds and secondaries are the ones that are up top in plain sight. is this correct.
thank you to everyone that has replied!!!
-dan

 

Yes, the Primary's are on the intermediate plate under the UIM. The secondaries do no fire at idle... they kick in at approx 3800rpm.

It dosn't sound like a fuel problem. I still think you have a vaccume leak somewhere, probably a large one. Check the intake tube from the MAF to the TB, look for cracks or hoses not hooked up. Check all your fast idle valves making sure the hoses aren't cracked or drawing from atmosphere. Also check all of the big doughnuts at the bottom of the injectors making sure they are still at lease somewhat soft and not cracked or missing.

A couple weeks ago a guy had a similar problem and it ended up that his MAF was sticking. He replaced it and all was fine. His MAF stuck after he had a NOS backfire which probably explains why it happened. The MAF's don't usually seem to be the cause of problems like this but it could be a possibility... I still think you have a leak somewhere.

 

i will continue to check for leaks. i have seen people making pressurization checkers for the intake for piston cars. just made out of pvc and a couple fittings, do you know if this would work with a rotary or would the air leak out around the rotors. i think this would really help with the the vac leak question.
thanks
-dan

 

Should work well enough to check for a leak... i've heard of people doing that with rotaries too.

 

ok i made the pressurization tool and i love it! i think i have found the problem but it kind of just arizes more questions.

so i pressurized the intake and there were leeks everwhere, most of them very small and most of them are fixed

the one that worries me and i think is the culprit is the very large leek coming from in between the LIM and the housings/block. i dont know why this would be leeking because i was very careful to seel it well the last time i had it apart

so my question is could this be because the block is warped because i dont think the LIM is. i dont know how to seel it up and it should be so simple. i have already ordered another gasket set but there is no reason why that is going to work better than the last method.

any ideas on how to defeat this damn leak will be much appriciated
thank you
dan

 

I doubt it, if the block is warped then you'd probably have a bigger problem as one or more dowells would most likely be broken and probably some of the tension bolts too. There would be obvious dammage to the outside of the engine.

Clean off where the manifold meets the block on the manifold and block side. Use a new gasget and put a thin layer of silicone gasget maker on the manifold and the block where the manifold meets. The silicone should be overkill but it will make sure it's sealed up good.