Hey guys,

Well I finally got my rear rotor housing opened up... I've got some pictures of the rotor housing with the rotor still inside; as well as the side plates. It was cracked open less than an hour ago, so there has been no cleaning done.

As you can see- the coolant seals were obviously broken. Looks like you guys diagnosed it well. You can see this in the last attached picture easily.

I want to know if you think this rotor housing is salvageable. I am ready to buy brand new housing(s) for a very good price, but I'd like to avoid spending the money if possible. Hopefully these pictures will be sufficient. I'm taking it to my friend who's a rotary mechanic and i'm having him diagnose it as well.

Also, the previous owner claims he streetported it. I'm pretty sure its ported- but not totally... I'm sure most of you can tell in a heartbeat.

Thanks!

-Andrew

 

you need post better pictures of the insides of the rotor housings, but from what i can see on the little area that's viewable it looks decent.

Matt

 

we can probably tell if its ported if you actually show us a picture of the intake ports on the irons man...

 

On the third picture from the left it looks like there is some gouging of the iron.. Pull the thing the whole way apart and show us some other stuff!!

 

Will do. Sorry for the crappy pictures, I know they're not very helpful but its the best I could do. I'm pulling apart the rest as we speak, so new pictures are coming soon.

Thanks.

-Andrew

 

how much can u get brand new housing for
i might want to get some

 

first off all take it all apart and clean the hell out of them then take better pics.....or just buy the overhual video and you'll know how to identify a good housing and or rotor.

 

ALL OF THE FOLLOWING PICTURES ARE BEFORE ANY CLEANING IS DONE.

1. Rear Rotor Intermidiate housing intake port. Is this what is "streetported"?

2. Very rear side housing. Streeported?

3. Just below the leading spark plug. Rear rotor housing. Is this salvageable?

4. Just before the exhaust port. Same question as above.

5. Apex seals for rear rotor. I don't see any cracking or blown seals, but one of them was very difficult to get out of its slot. One of the little edge peices fell down one of the engine bolt holes and has yet to be recovered. Question: Do they look good? I compared them back to back and they match up perfectly.

See next post for more.

Thanks.

-Andrew

 

6. Face 1 of rear rotor. I want your opinion on its condition.

7. Face 2. Same question.

8. Face 3. Same question.

9. Back of the rotor. What i'm trying to figure out is its general condition and whether or not I need to replace the rotor.

9a. Front of rear rotor. Same question as above.

Thanks!

-Andrew

 

you need to clean em a bit and start measureing, per the fsm

 

Anyone else? This is kind of urgent.. I need to have my engine rebuilt before school starts back up, which is quickly approaching.

Thanks.

-Andrew

 

I'm having unbelievable difficulty getting off the eccentric shaft lock bolt. I used an impact wrench on full power (170 pounds IIRC) and it would not budge.

I tried lube but nothing seems to be working.. Tomorrow i'm taking it to the same guy that got off the flywheel so I guess that will work.

-Andrew

 

Your intake and exhaust ports are stock as a clock man. No porting there, unless the lighting is terribly bad...looks bone stock. Streetports feel smooth, like a sheet of notebook paper (inside the port) while stock ports feel like the unfinished edge of a cut piece of wood.

Your rotorhousings look okay, but at least take a clean rag and wipe them off to a mirror finish so we can tell more. You're looking for grooves on the edges, the more grooving, the less compression they'll make in the future. The surface in the center is rarely disturbed unless apex seals or foreign objects went through the engine. IT is normal to have small grooves in the center between the OMP holes and sparkplug holes, so long as they aren't too deep.

Same for the iron surfaces...wipe them down to a mirror finish, and post back.

BTW...water seals ALWAYS break upon teardown, unless they're very new, like <10k miles. Just because you see pieces and bits of seal here and there, broken, doesnt mean they were broken while the engine was being operated. This is something you really CAN NOT know upon disassembly...the only surefire way to know is if there was water found in one of the rotorhousing combustion areas, on a rotor, etc. Usually with more severe waterseal motors, the inner waterjacket will crack somewhere, letting the waterseal get pushed into the water jacket by compression forces. Use a small flatscrewdriver to dig into the corners of all 8 water jackets, to remove all remnants of seal and dirt, and then inspect the jackets for cracks.

 

BTW, to remove a stubborn front eshaft bolt, you'll need about 500ft-lb in reverse, and very possibly heat from a torch...a small propane one will do, but it'll require 10 minutes or more. An oxyacetylene torch will heat it up in 30 seconds..that thing is loctited from the factory and you sometimes have to break it's bond by melting it.

 

Both rotors look fine...get all the seals AND springs out, and use the old seals to dig out carbon stuck down in the grooves. Rotors don't wear out in general, just check the bearing...less than 25% copper is reuseable in most cases. Check the apex seal tips...clean the rotor, and remove the corner seals. Lay it on it's side, and see if the tip is tilted one way or another (in other words, is one side worn down at an angle while the other side still straight up)...often this is the case, allowing for more side--to-side play than you want...this is the only significant wear rotors face, unless you throw apex seal fragments through it while running.