S5 wastegate porting, is this enough or do i need to do way more ? pics inside
05-01-13, 10:40 PM
#1
S5 wastegate porting, is this enough or do i need to do way more ? pics inside
So I decided to port my wastegate on my s5 turbo, and the rotary tool I bought to port it out decided not to hold the bits anymore and they just spun inside the tool so I couldn't port it anymore (it was a cheap ebay tool i got for 15$ hoping it'd at least get the job done).
Here are some pics, it decided to stop working after i started porting the bigger hole, i managed to grind off some of the backplate as well to help the flapper to open more (i originally was porting the wall of the hot side to get it to open more , until i realized the flapper couldnt even open that far, dohh!)
I did the porting with some rags stuffed inside so no metal would get into anything, which made it harder to get deep down inside but i opened up the hole as much as i could before it gave out on me.
The car has a stock intake/airbox, full turboback exhaust , 2.5" downpipe, 3" midpipe , then 2.5" from there on, i've got the setup for a rtek 1.7 (fuel pump/720's), and i plan to run 10 psi , will this hold it?
Ive been told lots of different things by people, some say you don't even need to port it.
Here are some pics, it decided to stop working after i started porting the bigger hole, i managed to grind off some of the backplate as well to help the flapper to open more (i originally was porting the wall of the hot side to get it to open more , until i realized the flapper couldnt even open that far, dohh!)
I did the porting with some rags stuffed inside so no metal would get into anything, which made it harder to get deep down inside but i opened up the hole as much as i could before it gave out on me.
The car has a stock intake/airbox, full turboback exhaust , 2.5" downpipe, 3" midpipe , then 2.5" from there on, i've got the setup for a rtek 1.7 (fuel pump/720's), and i plan to run 10 psi , will this hold it?
Ive been told lots of different things by people, some say you don't even need to port it.
05-01-13, 11:35 PM
#2
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some say, he cleans his oil cooler with a stick?
some say, he can only blow through a JDM fuel rail?
all we know is, you won't know how much boost it'll run until its running
some say, he can only blow through a JDM fuel rail?
all we know is, you won't know how much boost it'll run until its running
05-01-13, 11:45 PM
#4
some say, he also prefers the new thread button.
all we know is, *****. seriously?!
FC3S Pro v2.0:  How-To - 1989-1991 Kouki FC3S Turbo Wastegate Porting
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...orting-996863/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...handle-722243/
for cereal man. Some good stuff there.
Your ports look fine by the way. Better than mine in fact and mines only hits 9~10.
It just will NOT hold it to redline.
05-01-13, 11:56 PM
#5
Just remember that opening the hole does not do much, you must open the runner for this to be effective. Also remember that you can bend the arm slightly to clear the bump on the hot side; allowing the flapper to open more.
I grind the port, runner, back cut the runner, the backplate and the door itself to give the maximum effect.
I grind the port, runner, back cut the runner, the backplate and the door itself to give the maximum effect.
05-01-13, 11:59 PM
#6
Just remember that opening the hole does not do much, you must open the runner for this to be effective. Also remember that you can bend the arm slightly to clear the bump on the hot side; allowing the flapper to open more.
I grind the port, runner, back cut the runner, the backplate and the door itself to give the maximum effect.
I grind the port, runner, back cut the runner, the backplate and the door itself to give the maximum effect.
05-02-13, 08:43 AM
#7
Is it possible to do this extensive porting without taking the hot side off? I'm not comfortable taking it apart, tried to take apart my s4 on a trial run but had problems, then again that was the cold side.
I'll see what I can do to get the hot side off, don't think porting the runners can be done with the "stuffing rag inside" process.
I'll see what I can do to get the hot side off, don't think porting the runners can be done with the "stuffing rag inside" process.
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05-02-13, 12:25 PM
#10
Senior Member
stand the turbo upright, spray a lubricant around them bolts and let sit for a day. less pain to remove specially if they are rusten on.
ps- w/ the stock air box and coupler to the turbo, boost creep is not an issue. Actually what you'll likely experience is boost drop.
ps- w/ the stock air box and coupler to the turbo, boost creep is not an issue. Actually what you'll likely experience is boost drop.
Last edited by Clubuser; 05-02-13 at 12:34 PM.
05-02-13, 01:05 PM
#11
I see no reason to run a cone filter unless you've modified it to actually get cold air, if not you're just sucking in all relatively hot air, best to get the headlight vent and make some kind of cold air box.
I've read about people modifying the stock air box to get more flow but I would think that mod will just be sucking in hot air.
As far as taking the hot side off, I'm porting it for peace of mind and in case I do ever get a cone filter, its not really important to me though.
I've read about people modifying the stock air box to get more flow but I would think that mod will just be sucking in hot air.
As far as taking the hot side off, I'm porting it for peace of mind and in case I do ever get a cone filter, its not really important to me though.
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